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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new here (but not to engines), so excuse me if I am missing something.

I have a La105 tractor, and I've been having some problems with it.

I had to replace the ignition setup (key and all) since mine broke and some pieces were lost. (Long story, don't ask.) I bought this from ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390220056849&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1045wt_907

I hooked it up, made sure the battery had a full charge, made sure the brake was on, the blades were off, everything. I put the key in the ignition and turn it, and get nothing. No cranking, no noise. Also, the "Service reminder" hour meter isn't going on.

My lawn eventually got REALLY long, and I wasn't going to mow my 4 acre lawn with a pushmower.

I found out that if I put the key in the ignition and turn it, I can then start the engine by using a piece of heavy gauge wire and connecting the two posts on the starter solenoid.

I can run it like this for awhile, then the engine quits. It can, however be restarted.

If it helps, the Reverse Implement Option button does not work, at all. But if I shift into reverse while mowing the engine will cut off.

If anyone has any ideas what my problem could be, please tell me.


Thanks,

Nate.
 

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I would take a look at your PTO and seat switches. do you have a multimeter or test light?
la105.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would take a look at your PTO and seat switches. do you have a multimeter or test light?
View attachment 2309
No, I do not. Where could I get one?

Also, the "Hour Counter" (for lack of a better name) doesn't turn on unless the engine is running. (if it helps).

Also, If I get off the mower without it in park it will turn off, so the seat switch is working. Is there more than one?

And where could I find my pto switches?

Thanks,

-nate
 

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Test equipment is available almost anywhere. Wal-Mart, Autozone would be cheapest. NAPA would probably have better quality. A test light is easier to use. The yellow wire 401 should feed power to the hour meter (with the keyswitch in run). I assume your PTO in not electrically activated, so your switch will be under the cowl by the back of the lever. Check for power on 943 white at PTO switch (also with key on).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Test equipment is available almost anywhere. Wal-Mart, Autozone would be cheapest. NAPA would probably have better quality. A test light is easier to use. The yellow wire 401 should feed power to the hour meter (with the keyswitch in run). I assume your PTO in not electrically activated, so your switch will be under the cowl by the back of the lever. Check for power on 943 white at PTO switch (also with key on).
I'll give those wires a check and pick up a test light on my way home from work today.

Thanks,

-Nate.
 

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I was too hasty when I was refilling my oil and I got my oil a little above the line on the oil checker thing. I'm a computer guy, worst motor/mechanic ever. I know nothing.

Anyway, it won't start at all now. It'll spin, no fire. Do I need to drain some oil? If so, what do I do after that? Should I let it run a few spins with the spark plug out to clean anything? Is there anything I can manually clean or check? My bro-in-law who is a farmer says there's a kill switch that would have enabled if I put too much oil in it and I'd need to manually turn that off. Where's that at? LA105

Thanks

PS - everyone tells me LA105 is not real John Deere. Is this true?
 

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Drained oil to correct placement, let the sparkplug slot blow until it was blowing fuel only (so far as I can tell), tried two different spark plugs, no fire, no ignite.

plz help. i'm about to go mower shopping i guess
 

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You've probably already thought of this, but are you sure that it is getting fuel? Maybe it isn't a fowled plug, but a fuel issue.
 

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You've probably already thought of this, but are you sure that it is getting fuel? Maybe it isn't a fowled plug, but a fuel issue.
Yeah I mean if I start the mower without the spark plug I can see crystal golden fuel squirting like crazy. It's like it's not getting/accepting/creating a spark to ignite the rest of the process.

I'm seriously ready push this thing out into the street. Even if it's my fault, I feel like I've done -everything- other than torch it.
 

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you can always test if it is getting spark by holding the threads of the spark plug against the metal of the motor.
 

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If you have fuel, time to check if there is spark, and if not, look at replacing plugs. Also, if you (or any helpers) have been rough with the plug wires, those can be an issue as well, so might be worth checking each individual plug to see if you can find the culprit.

Gimmo had a good suggestion, and is more knowledgeable on this stuff than I am, but I hate to see you push it to the curb, over something that can probably be "fixed", relatively cheaply.
 

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you can always test if it is getting spark by holding the threads of the spark plug against the metal of the motor.
X2

Check it and let us know :morning2:
 

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I'm gonna try your suggestions when I get home from work, thanks all.

Also to note, could be related, but I also can't seem to push the mower anymore - I put it in neutral but the wheels are still locked. Please note the mower has never fired once since the last time it ran out of fuel, so even with all these "bit too much oil" issues the engine has not run since. So I have no idea what would lock it up so bad that I can't push it. I have to pick the back end up myself and drag it if I want to get it out of my garage to work on it in the sunlight.
 

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Go stand behind your mower. On the back of your mower there should be a black plate vertically between the wheels and under the seat. At the bottom of that plate should be your towing hitch connector. If you look at that plate, there should be a lever, roughly 2" up and to the right of the tow hitch point. That lever is your "free-wheeling" lever. It locks up the rear end so that the wheels won't turn. It's intended for use when transporting your machine so that it won't roll off of a trailer.

Make sure that lever isn't engaged.

Just in case you don't have one: Here is a link to the 100-series Owner's Manual.
 

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Go stand behind your mower. On the back of your mower there should be a black plate vertically between the wheels and under the seat. At the bottom of that plate should be your towing hitch connector. If you look at that plate, there should be a lever, roughly 2" up and to the right of the tow hitch point. That lever is your "free-wheeling" lever. It locks up the rear end so that the wheels won't turn. It's intended for use when transporting your machine so that it won't roll off of a trailer.

Make sure that lever isn't engaged.

Just in case you don't have one: Here is a link to the 100-series Owner's Manual.
The LA105, or at least mine, has no such lever. I think maybe that's on hydrostat models? I don't have hydrostat. There's a parking break on the dash that's more of an orange push lever, nothing more.
 

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The LA105, or at least mine, has no such lever. I think maybe that's on hydrostat models? I don't have hydrostat. There's a parking break on the dash that's more of an orange push lever, nothing more.
Yep. The Freewheeling lever is only on tractors with an auto (hydro) transmission. The only other item that should cause your rear end to lock up is your parking brake (unless you're actually in gear...) on a manual.
 

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I think despite the fact that the lever is set to Neutral it must be stuck in a gear. Parking brake not engaged.
 

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I think despite the fact that the lever is set to Neutral it must be stuck in a gear. Parking brake not engaged.
if that is the case it could be a real problem. it dying would not cause this tho, thats a problem in the tranny.
 
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