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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm looking to buy or build a land plane to use with my 1025r ... Need to know what size plane this tractor can handle.
The implement dealer I talked to said I should go with a 4' wide plane. He said the tractor was too small to handle anything larger ... Is he right? or could I go with a 5' wide plane?

G
 

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I'm looking to buy or build a land plane to use with my 1025r ... Need to know what size plane this tractor can handle.
The implement dealer I talked to said I should go with a 4' wide plane. He said the tractor was too small to handle anything larger ... Is he right? or could I go with a 5' wide plane?

G
I bought a 60" Frontier LP.
I wish i bought a 48".
It will pull the 60" fine on hard compacted stone blend. When i tried it in newly spread material it would bog down and almost stop. Granted you can use three point arms to hold a higher position but in float it was hard on 1025R.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Actually my thoughts were to build a land plane that was as at least as wide as the outside tire tread on the tractor so it would cover the tire marks …
With the 1 1/4" wheel spacers I have on the axle, the outside tread width is 51" ...
So I was thinkin of making the land plane 52" wide … Anyone see this causing any problems ? :unknown:
 

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I vote fabricate,,, :bigthumb:

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/metalworking-fabrication/78297-diy-landplane.html

Go find some REAL stout cutting edge replacements,, then, let that dictate the width.

Wheel track is meaningless,, you are not mowing grass. For this use, the tractor should not be "sinking into" the driveway.
So, if you find 8 foot cutting edges, then cut in half,, the landplane will end up slightly under 4 feet wide, if the blades are angled.

As far as size,, I hooked my 7 foot landplane to my 41HP JD 4105,,



I think it would work, if I were only required to spread some gravel,,
it would NEVER do any "landplaning",,,:flag_of_truce:

So, this 7 foot landplane REALLY needs to be behind my 10,000 pound tractor.

If you look close, you will notice I only have one blade,, I never got around to adding the second one,, it is laying outside the shop rusting,,
Even with only one blade,, this landplane still gives both of my tractors fits,,
Think about trying one blade,, before adding the second.

Many people suffer with a landplane that will "float" rather than dig in.. dual blades cuts the weight per foot of blade in half.
Low weight per foot of blade,, less capability to dig into the surface being worked.

My blades are 7 feet long, and then they are angled,, my tractor is just over 7 feet wide,,

 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK guys … Next question …
Should I go with angled cutter bars or straight cutter bars on the land plane ? Does it really make a difference? … :dunno:

G
 

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Just throwing out another thing to consider. The heavier the attachment, the more you may need front ballast. I haven't used a land plane but my box grader (more so when it gets too full) will lift my front wheels when I pick it up to where it is hard or impossible to steer. Granted front ballast can be as easy as carrying around some dirt in a FEL. When it is down in float it isn't as big of a deal.

As far as straight or angled. Personally I would think angled would work better.
 

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As far as straight or angled. Personally I would think angled would work better.
Agreed....

Too narrow a land plane and more tractor passes required on the same surface (no big deal, just more seat time and a little more fuel)

Too wide a land plane and you struggle to make forward progress fighting the machine digging in and stopping you completely. That is very frustrating and also when the tractor is bogged down, you might spin and loosen up material in the tire tracks but not across the entire cutting edge.

Depending upon what you are planing, you might want to create the crown in the center, which would be helpful with the blade angled in that direction. Flat or square (side to side) and it primarily transfers material from high points to holes or low points and the plane might "skip over" the areas you are trying to plane.....or plain. Its basically a box blade at that point.

I also like the advice about a single blade as it would seem easier to control the actual material with one blade verses two parallel ones. You can always add another blade if needed.

If you have the cutting edge angled to push material to the right, you are going to have to run down the left side of the driveway to transfer material from the edges back to the center. Maintaining the desired width would seem to be easier with the material being pulled from the outside edges to the center, verses the other direction. I suppose you could design the land plane to allow you to pivot the cutting edge in the center but you would have to lift the entire implement to do this which would also seem to complicate the building of it, verses having the cutting edge in one specific direction.

One other idea......Down force beyond just gravity could be handy, but that could require a hydraulic top link. Otherwise, you can hang suitcase weights on the land plane, so design the perimeter frame and even in the very center, a way to easily and securely hang the suitcase weights so they won't move or fall off.

SO much depends upon what you are planning to plane or plain......if its very compacted material, the extra ballast or down force could almost be required where if its soft or loose material, the down force or weight likely won't be as crucial. Plus, the surfaces are going to vary when used on different projects.

Pictures are required.......:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The problem I can foresee with making my land plane with angled cutters, is my driveway is all one long up hill grade. If I make the plane with angled cutters I'd need to go down one side (lets say left side) every time to bring gravel to the center to crown it and back up the other side (right side) every time to do the same on the other side of the drive. I'd always need to go in the same way. Going down hill would be no problem but coming back up I think would be a very hard pull, and every trip going up would be on the same side of the driveway...
I'm thinking with straight cutters it wouldn't make any difference which way I went up or down and I can switch sides or directions without the plane trying to pull dirt to one side. I thinking I could pull gravel to the center of the driveway to crown it by adjusting the length of one of the three point arms. to tilt the plane some.

Does this make sense? … :dunno:
 

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Otherwise, you can hang suitcase weights on the land plane, so design the perimeter frame and even in the very center,
a way to easily and securely hang the suitcase weights so they won't move or fall off.
When I was learning to crown with my landplane,, I hung several ~100 pound weights on the right side,,



I secured the weights with a piece of rope,, IIRC,,

It is tricky as to how to get it to "dig" on the right,, and "deposit" on the left.

Next time,, I will,, in addition to the weights,, raise the left end of the cutting edge.

I can adjust the height of the two ends individually,,
 

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I purchased a 6 foot land pride (model 1572 with dual directional cutting edges) this spring. When I started with it it was wet, really wet. That thing would sink like a rock. Now that it is starting to dry out it is working better.

My observations are:
1. I would angle blades at 10% like Everything Attachments does. Most others are 5%.
2. I put cutting edges on front and back as an add on. You can feel the extra 100# (total weight now 700#s)
3. Run right side of land plane 1/4" lower then left side. Blades are adjustable. Believe it or not 1/2" was to much.
4. A 4' plus shoes will cover your tracks. 4' on 1025 would be more than enough to pull. Mine is 6 foot and with shoes it's 78".
5. Running blades straight would give you a box blade.

I was going to build mine and with son remodeling house I couldn't get it done time wise.

Good Luck with the build!

Post pictures...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here's what I have so far ....

I have the sides made. I dug out some 2 x 2 x 3/16 Square tubing to make the cross braces and three point mounts, and got some brackets cut out.
Need to make a trip to the steel scrap yard to find more steel before proceeding farther. With the high price of steel these days, I try to buy 'used' steel whenever I can.

Wish I could find a source for a couple hardened cutting bars that wouldn't break the bank, but will probably end up using welding rod to build up the cutting edge instead ... :think:
 

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Wish I could find a source for a couple hardened cutting bars that wouldn't break the bank, but will probably end up using welding rod to build up the cutting edge instead ... :think:
My local CATERPILLAR dealer has a "graveyard",, anything that has been mounted, and removed, even though never used,, is sent to the graveyard,,

That lot is full of perfect parts,, that is where I got my cutting edges,,
they are road grader "takeoffs" that the customer wanted a different style cutting edge on a new machine.

They literally sell the stuff for a few dollars above scrap price.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You're lucky … No 'Cat' or other industrial implement dealer near me, unfortunately ...
I thinkin having a couple cutting edges shipped to me from there would NOT be cost effective … :banghead:


G
 

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Google; King Kutter replacement cutting edge
They aren't too terribly expensive, a bit less than $100/ea
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Landplane progress

Got the needed steel to complete the landplane. Have the pieces for the cutter bar and cutting edge mocked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Landplane progress

Wrapping things up with a test fit. Just need to add wear strips to the bottoms of the runners yet, then a coat of paint.
 

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Good work. FWIW, my JD dealer said when using the LP on spreading gravel in my application to use the top link to make the front 3-5 degrees lower than the rear. Works like a champ ! :bigthumb:
 
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