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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to get a Landscape Rake for snow removal this winter. Problem is a section of the drive is freshly turned, soft, and not frozen yet. 3" of snow with 5-7" drifts of fluffy powder and I was a little reluctant to use the Rake.

To improve the performance, we slit a 6' piece of 2" pipe with a gap of about 1" the entire length. We welded a piece of 20 gage galvanized sheet metal to the pipe. Blew 1/2" holes in the sheet metal at each corner and the middle. Bought 3 bungee cords, strapped it onto the Rake Tines, and good to go.

When, if, it warms up a bit, I will bend the sheet metal and install on the inside of the tines. As far as the first try, it really worked well. Still moved too much gravel in the one reworked section, but it was very loose to begin with. The amount of snow really didn't justify plowing, except for the drifts. I let it down all the way for the entire 1/2 mile of drive. The sections I hadn't been grading look great. With the 6' blade behind the 1025R and at max angle, all I needed was one pass down the road and a pass back and done. Never even had to adjust blade angle.

Pleased so far.

Rake Attachment 1.png

Rake Attachment 3.png

Rake Attachment 4.png
 

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One suggestion, put the sheet metal on the inside of the tines. The snow will press it tight against the tines that way & the snow will slide off easier/faster.
 
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Pretty good idea let us know how it works. I know there is a company out there some place I saw that makes a blade/rake combination.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One suggestion, put the sheet metal on the inside of the tines. The snow will press it tight against the tines that way & the snow will slide off easier/faster.
Putting the sheet metal on the inside is the plan. I was hoping the 20 gage would be easier to bend. Getting a little warm up time and free time at the same time might be challenging right now.

Actually hoping I don't have to use it again......
 

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I have tried and tried to get the sheet metal to stay on the inside of the tines using bungee cords. The angles just aren't going to work. Pulling from the front does not provide the leverage to keep the pipe in place over the tines.

I'll leave on the back for now until I can come up with a system to allow moving to the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We had our first real snow here in Kentucky yesterday. I'm guessing about 6-7 inches, but being on a ridge, it worked out 3-15" depending on how the wind blew.

The cover for the landscape rake worked perfectly. Really did a nice job and a whole lot easier than the FEL. A few observations:

1. The pipe on the tines lets it glide over the gravel. With the profile unlevel, it left a little snow, but not a problem, so far.

2. Turning around to watch the blade with 14 layers of clothes and hoods (it was 11 degrees out) is a pain.

3. Getting the 6' Rake was a good choice. On a medium angle, it provided good snow movement while providing a decent width. There was a little spillover into the middle.

4. At max angle the spillover was reduced, but the width is cut is reduced too much for me.

5, The County Line Rake is not level with the 3 point by about 3". Took a lot of adjustment to get it level with the tractor.

6. Got stuck several times. Seemed more dependent on the grade than what I was pulling. Chains would probably eliminate. Not worth the trouble right now.

All-in-all a good modification. Don't think a rear blade could do any better and being able to multi-task an implement provides value for me.
 
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That looks great. I have a new gravel drive that is a pain to plow. This would work.

An idea for attaching the sheet metal to the front. Put a 2 x 4 up high across the back of the rake. Then run screws with large fender washers through the sheet metal into the 2 x 4.
 
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