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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a small lawn care business that only does chemical applications and fertilizing. I am a licensed applicator. I see many threads of people dispensing advice, some good some bad. I'll throw my 2 cents in so take it for what it is worth.

I only do large yards an acre an up. The philosophy is simple, do the least for the greatest return as with yards this big, numerous applications can get real expensive in a hurry. I maintain turf like the golf course takes care of the rough, it gets little care, almost never watered but is mowed much higher than the fairways. If you can kill the weeds, stop crabgrass from starting and use high quality slow release fertilizer you are well on the way. Almost always 3 applications/season will suffice.

1. Spray for broadleaf weeds and mix in Prodiamine which is a pre emergent before soil temps hit 60 degrees.
2. High quality slow release fertilizer that is PCSCU (poly coated, sulphur coated urea) or 100% stabilized nitrogen such as Rxn. i.e. 33-0-5, 100% Rxn with 2% Iron @ 4#s/1,000 or 172#s/acre.

These 2 applications in Wi. come the first part of May in a normal year

3. After the heat of Summer is past, a final application of fertilizer also at 4#s/1,000

I took some pics of my own yard a few minutes ago, still a little mottled looking from the dogs making a few spots a little "greener". :rolleyes:

Once again set your mowers up, this was mowed at 4.25".
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Few pics of the wife's flowers and of course doggies. ;)

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A lawn that looks like a lawn should look!

I love to hear my landscaper bud's stories like yours C5! He says much of what you say - timing is everything and if you build a strong turf you won't need lots of fertilizer or herbicides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A lawn that looks like a lawn should look!

I love to hear my landscaper bud's stories like yours C5! He says much of what you say - timing is everything and if you build a strong turf you won't need lots of fertilizer or herbicides.

Yup, strong healthy turf will crowd out weeds and not allow them to start. I can't stress enough the importance of mowing height of at least 3.75" I am really long right now because the grass is growing so fast I had to raise the deck to not pile up cut grass. In front of the house I still lost control and had to fire up the Simplicity Conquest with turbo bagger to suck up grass.

However 600#s of fertilizer might have something to do with this too. :rolleyes: :cool:
 

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I have a small lawn care business that only does chemical applications and fertilizing. I am a licensed applicator. I see many threads of people dispensing advice, some good some bad. I'll throw my 2 cents in so take it for what it is worth.

I only do large yards an acre an up. The philosophy is simple, do the least for the greatest return as with yards this big, numerous applications can get real expensive in a hurry. I maintain turf like the golf course takes care of the rough, it gets little care, almost never watered but is mowed much higher than the fairways. If you can kill the weeds, stop crabgrass from starting and use high quality slow release fertilizer you are well on the way. Almost always 3 applications/season will suffice.

1. Spray for broadleaf weeds and mix in Prodiamine which is a pre emergent before soil temps hit 60 degrees.
2. High quality slow release fertilizer that is PCSCU (poly coated, sulphur coated urea) or 100% stabilized nitrogen such as Rxn. i.e. 33-0-5, 100% Rxn with 2% Iron @ 4#s/1,000 or 172#s/acre.

These 2 applications in Wi. come the first part of May in a normal year

3. After the heat of Summer is past, a final application of fertilizer also at 4#s/1,000

I took some pics of my own yard a few minutes ago, still a little mottled looking from the dogs making a few spots a little "greener". :rolleyes:

Once again set your mowers up, this was mowed at 4.25".
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I never mow less than 4 inches. Makes the grass look sooo much better.

Dave
 

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Yup, strong healthy turf will crowd out weeds and not allow them to start. I can't stress enough the importance of mowing height of at least 3.75" I am really long right now because the grass is growing so fast I had to raise the deck to not pile up cut grass. In front of the house I still lost control and had to fire up the Simplicity Conquest with turbo bagger to suck up grass.

However 600#s of fertilizer might have something to do with this too. :rolleyes: :cool:
I have a small-ish yard compared to the rolling acreage most folks here have. And a lot of shade since I'm at the edge of the forest and north facing.

I always say I used to have a picture perfect yard striped like a ball field. Now I want one that has ups and downs and curves and looks like the bunkers at Augusta. :D

I've got a ton of tree work to be done and once I get that squared away I can work on the horrible condition of my turf.
 

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Ok I need advice. I bought some of the containers you attach to the end of hose to spray my lawn. I thought I would be clever and just use one and spray in to the tank I have on back of my x584 and then I would know from then on how many gallons to one bottle of spray. This idea backfired and it seems as if no chemical comes out of bottle as the level never drops. I have used them in the past and can usually see the level go down in the window on the jug. Any idea on much water per bottle? It is the Scott’s turf builder weed and feed variety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the info.

My yard has lots of crabgrass and weed mixed with some Bermuda grass.

I will follow your advise. I want to make it a little better for the next year.




2021 2038R

Nice tractor!

If crabgrass does erupt, it is easily taken care of with DriveXL8 before it hits the 3 tiller stage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a small-ish yard compared to the rolling acreage most folks here have. And a lot of shade since I'm at the edge of the forest and north facing.

I always say I used to have a picture perfect yard striped like a ball field. Now I want one that has ups and downs and curves and looks like the bunkers at Augusta. :D

I've got a ton of tree work to be done and once I get that squared away I can work on the horrible condition of my turf.

Too bad you are so far away, I am pretty proficient with a chainsaw and am well armed with them.:cool:
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I need advice. I bought some of the containers you attach to the end of hose to spray my lawn. I thought I would be clever and just use one and spray in to the tank I have on back of my x584 and then I would know from then on how many gallons to one bottle of spray. This idea backfired and it seems as if no chemical comes out of bottle as the level never drops. I have used them in the past and can usually see the level go down in the window on the jug. Any idea on much water per bottle? It is the Scott’s turf builder weed and feed variety.

This is a sensitive topic and I don't want to come off as arrogant.

As a licensed applicator I am required by Federal law to follow label instructions to the letter. Doing so also ensures good results but it is a violation of FIFRA to violate.

When a sprayer is used it is imperative that it be properly calibrated. There are many tutorials you can find. The problem with labels for the lay person is everything is in rates per acre which is difficult for the average person to comprehend. What I am going to say next is a GENERALIZATION and cannot be taken as fact. But most sprayers (3 point or trailer) the average buys in a big box store I have seen will dispense 1 gallon/ 1,000 square feet. Multiply by 43 and you have the amount per acre. Labels will also have the amount per gallon or amount per 1,000 square feet which will get you close to where you need to be. NOTE THIS IS A GENERALIZATION.

What does a real good job and does calibration for you is the Ortho Dial Sprayers. These work good.

Ortho® Dial N Spray® Hose End Sprayer
 
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Impressive lawn! Impressive woodpile! Thanks for the advice.
 
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Nice looking yard. You grass is so strong it sprouts firewood.

I retired a little over a year ago and this is the first time I’ve made a real effort on it. It looks great now but we will see come August. It’s been a little to wet here if anything. I mow at 3.5 inches, I don’t know why 4” just seems to tall.

It does get expensive, I’ve got maybe $500 in mine so far, roughly 1.5 acres, maybe 2 in grass.
 

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Very, very nice.

Did you do the wall by the patio with the cast blocks? I've got to rip out an old retaining wall about the same height and hope to use those but wasn't sure how high they will support the soil.

Great dog pix. It looks like the Lab has a party horn.

Treefarmer
 

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This is a sensitive topic and I don't want to come off as arrogant.

As a licensed applicator I am required by Federal law to follow label instructions to the letter. Doing so also ensures good results but it is a violation of FIFRA to violate.

When a sprayer is used it is imperative that it be properly calibrated. There are many tutorials you can find. The problem with labels for the lay person is everything is in rates per acre which is difficult for the average person to comprehend. What I am going to say next is a GENERALIZATION and cannot be taken as fact. But most sprayers (3 point or trailer) the average buys in a big box store I have seen will dispense 1 gallon/ 1,000 square feet. Multiply by 43 and you have the amount per acre. Labels will also have the amount per gallon or amount per 1,000 square feet which will get you close to where you need to be. NOTE THIS IS A GENERALIZATION.

What does a real good job and does calibration for you is the Ortho Dial Sprayers. These work good.

Ortho® Dial N Spray® Hose End Sprayer
I didn’t take anything as arrogant. I am truly in need of how much water do the spray bottles put down per bottle. I have no way to measure that. And it don’t say on the bottle how to mix other than attach to garden hose. I am just trying to apply the same amount of chemical and water but use the sprayer on the tractor to do so. For me I just hate to drag a hose out and around with me. I have used the ortho ones and they do work great. But again I pull out the max amount of hose and work backwards. When I start it’s not bad but by the time I’m done I have 150 - 200 feet of hose that I am pulling back.
 

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I didn’t take anything as arrogant. I am truly in need of how much water do the spray bottles put down per bottle. I have no way to measure that. And it don’t say on the bottle how to mix other than attach to garden hose. I am just trying to apply the same amount of chemical and water but use the sprayer on the tractor to do so. For me I just hate to drag a hose out and around with me. I have used the ortho ones and they do work great. But again I pull out the max amount of hose and work backwards. When I start it’s not bad but by the time I’m done I have 150 - 200 feet of hose that I am pulling back.
Once you use one container up, fill it back with water and food coloring. Then turn on the hose and run it into bucket(s) and see how much water it takes to empty the colored water out.

I'm guessing quite a bit but don't really know.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Very, very nice.

Did you do the wall by the patio with the cast blocks? I've got to rip out an old retaining wall about the same height and hope to use those but wasn't sure how high they will support the soil.

Great dog pix. It looks like the Lab has a party horn.

Treefarmer

I had a contractor do the wall and rather than replace the deck, it was done in pavers so it wouldn't have to be maintained.
 

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Too bad you are so far away, I am pretty proficient with a chainsaw and am well armed with them.:cool:
Yep, you're way more than a day trip away. (y)

Your huskies would LOVE my woods! Not a lot of grass per se but enough acreage of timber to keep a good saw busy.

I'm pretty good with some materials but wood is not one of them. Can't saw a board straight and can't cut a notch for crap either!

I've got 3 problem children that have to be craned down. Nowhere to safely drop them. One is probably a 42-48" Poplar and the others two beautiful 2 foot plus oaks. All 3 are at least 60 feet tall. The oaks are too close to the house to safely drop and we have someone lined up for all 3 since they are clear lumber.

Back to grass... do we have a preference other than green and not weeds? Part shade to full shade here for me.
 
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