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Discussion Starter #1
My lawn is in need of overseeding and rejuvenation. I've been working hard on repairs and changes to the landscape, driveway, etc. So this fall I want to hit the rest of the lawn hard.


  • Mid August:
    • Spray with Trimec and Tenacity to kill off any weeds. Need to do this 1 month before seeding.
    • Soil test to determine if it needs lime and how much N to use
    • Broadcast lime if needed
  • Mid September:
    • Dethatch and collect with lawn sweeper
    • Broadcast granular starter fertilizer and let it get rained in once
    • Mow grass really short and collect with sweeper
    • Broadcast seed
    • Broadcast topdressing (what should I use?)
    • Roller to get the seed down (is this needed?)
    • Straw over bare spots
    • Water where I can daily with timers, but can't do the full yard daily due to size and well
    • Broadcast granular starter fertilizer again in mid-late October
  • Late April:
    • Seed/straw/water any bare spots, but hopefully none
    • Boom spray or granular broadcast dimension pre-emergent
    • Boom spray or granular broadcast fertilizer (0.75lb/1000sqft)
    • Boom spray Talstar for the backyard and wand spray the house perimeter
    • Enjoy lawn

Is any of my plan stupid? Anything I'm forgetting? Is running over the broadcast seed with a roller worthwhile? I do not have a roller so I'd have to borrow/rent one. I have a 3 point sprayer, a friend's tow broadcast spreader, to dethatcher, three point rake, and a friend's lawn sweeper for equipment. What should I use for top dress?
 

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My lawn is in need of overseeding and rejuvenation. I've been working hard on repairs and changes to the landscape, driveway, etc. So this fall I want to hit the rest of the lawn hard.


  • Mid August:
    • Spray with Trimec and Tenacity to kill off any weeds. Need to do this 1 month before seeding.
    • Soil test to determine if it needs lime and how much N to use
    • Broadcast lime if needed
  • Mid September:
    • Dethatch and collect with lawn sweeper
    • Broadcast granular starter fertilizer and let it get rained in once
    • Mow grass really short and collect with sweeper
    • Broadcast seed
    • Broadcast topdressing (what should I use?)
    • Roller to get the seed down (is this needed?)
    • Straw over bare spots
    • Water where I can daily with timers, but can't do the full yard daily due to size and well
    • Broadcast granular starter fertilizer again in mid-late October
  • Late April:
    • Seed/straw/water any bare spots, but hopefully none
    • Boom spray or granular broadcast dimension pre-emergent
    • Boom spray or granular broadcast fertilizer (0.75lb/1000sqft)
    • Boom spray Talstar for the backyard and wand spray the house perimeter
    • Enjoy lawn

Is any of my plan stupid? Anything I'm forgetting? Is running over the broadcast seed with a roller worthwhile? I do not have a roller so I'd have to borrow/rent one. I have a 3 point sprayer, a friend's tow broadcast spreader, to dethatcher, three point rake, and a friend's lawn sweeper for equipment. What should I use for top dress?
I would move everything up a month.Mow grass short before putting down fert and sweeping.If your going to use Pre-emergent don't waste the time and seed.Pre-emergent creates a barrier for weed seeds so they won't grow,so grass seed will not grow either.Depending how heavy you put it down is how long it will work. Lesco Stonewall pre-emergent that I use can last up to 4 months depending on the rate applied.So a .75 pounds per 1,000 will get me to mid August if I put it down in mid April.
If you're able to plug aerate in Aug. and put seed and starter fert down. I wouldn't worry to much top dressing unless it's a bare spot.
 

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I'd suggest that you get your soil test NOW and apply lime/fertilizer as needed. I'd also look at (and treat if necessary) insects. Then soil test again and re-apply lime/fertilizer as needed come August. All of that allows you to get the soil chemistry right in plenty of time for fall seeding.

My back lawn got infested with grubs 3 summers ago. They ate everything and following summer I had 90% dirt with a few patches of grass. That fall moss took over and last spring my back yard was a nice thick bed of moss with zero grass. I spent the summer killing moss, getting the soil chemistry right and fighting weeds as they popped up. Last fall I top-dressed with compost and seeded and manged to get some growth before winter set in. This spring I'm back to 99% nice green grass. I have a handful of small bald spots that I' working this summer. Next summer it should look spectacular! :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I won't be putting down any pre-em this year. That won't be until spring. Trimec is post-em and won't affect seeding as long as you give it a 3-4 week buffer. Good point on soil testing now. I guess I could need a lot of lime to get in and do its job over longer time. I'll get that done next week I guess. I think I can still accidentally buy Merit here. I had moles over the winter that did some damage.
 

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You noted in your plan that Late April you were going to seed bare spots then put down pre-em.The seed won't grow with pre -em down.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You noted in your plan that Late April you were going to seed bare spots then put down pre-em.The seed won't grow with pre -em down.
Oh that. Ya if I have bare spots to re-seed, the pre-em will wait a month.
 

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My lawn is in need of overseeding and rejuvenation. I've been working hard on repairs and changes to the landscape, driveway, etc. So this fall I want to hit the rest of the lawn hard.


  • Mid August:
    • Spray with Trimec and Tenacity to kill off any weeds. Need to do this 1 month before seeding.
    • Soil test to determine if it needs lime and how much N to use
    • Broadcast lime if needed
  • Mid September:
    • Dethatch and collect with lawn sweeper
    • Broadcast granular starter fertilizer and let it get rained in once
    • Mow grass really short and collect with sweeper
    • Broadcast seed
    • Broadcast topdressing (what should I use?)
    • Roller to get the seed down (is this needed?)
    • Straw over bare spots
    • Water where I can daily with timers, but can't do the full yard daily due to size and well
    • Broadcast granular starter fertilizer again in mid-late October
  • Late April:
    • Seed/straw/water any bare spots, but hopefully none
    • Boom spray or granular broadcast dimension pre-emergent
    • Boom spray or granular broadcast fertilizer (0.75lb/1000sqft)
    • Boom spray Talstar for the backyard and wand spray the house perimeter
    • Enjoy lawn

Is any of my plan stupid? Anything I'm forgetting? Is running over the broadcast seed with a roller worthwhile? I do not have a roller so I'd have to borrow/rent one. I have a 3 point sprayer, a friend's tow broadcast spreader, to dethatcher, three point rake, and a friend's lawn sweeper for equipment. What should I use for top dress?
In September, after you mow your grass really short, but before you spread the seed, aerate the lawn with a plug aerator.
And no, don't use a roller to set the seed.
 

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+1 on the plug aerator in the fall prior to seeding. Depending on the soil you can either rake up the plugs if you have lousy clay like us and then seed and spread good topsoil.... or if your soil is decent, spread the seed then break up the plugs by dragging something light to help cover the seed.
 

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I generally use the core aerator to loosen things up in thin turf areas in the fall. Then overseed and use a 3PH mounted dethatcher to break up the plugs and rake the seed in. I then apply some starter fertilizer as well. Seed germination has been pretty good.

Here's a link to the 3PH mounted dethatcher: https://www.cmpattachments.com/3-point
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I love that 3 point dethatcher. Mine is a typical cheap-o tow behind I think 48" thing that fit well behind my old 425. I wish I had something bigger for the 1026r, but at the same time I still only have an acre of lawn.
 

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Not sure of growing season in MD, here in ND grass planted in SEP may not have germinated/grown before freeze up. Also, April has the potential to still have snow cover :laugh: so my timeline may be different.
Here, I would do as you did but time the seeding to be close to the freeze up as possible and hope for a good spring germ.
The spring pre-em would not happen due to wanting max seed germination.

Otherwise the process looks good. As other have said, add in plug aeration prior to fert/seed in the fall and skip the rolling since you have to borrow/rent anyway.
If you have really heavy or compacted soil, then plugging again in the spring with another light overseed may help too.
 

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I would also suggest a winterizer fert in late fall to help promote root growth. I usually put it down in Nov, depends where you are in MD and how cold the weather is that year.

A couple years ago i actually seeded some spots at Thanksgiving and we had 70* temps in Dec that got things growing before the freeze set in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So sounds like skip the roller and start surfing craigslist for an aerator instead. I think I'll get a regular tow-behind one, but chain the ends up to my quick hitch so I can use the 3 point to raise it up and down. Because who wants to get off the seat?! I bet I can do the same with my crappy little dethatcher too

I think the top dress might be coming off the table too. I started looking at how much I would need and realized I am not equipped or motivated enough to spread 40 yards of compost. I might call around to see if any local landscapers are able, but it would be a big job regardless.

Am I basically locking myself out of driving the tractor on the lawn for the month or two after overseeding so I don't crush the new grass?
 

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So sounds like skip the roller and start surfing craigslist for an aerator instead. I think I'll get a regular tow-behind one, but chain the ends up to my quick hitch so I can use the 3 point to raise it up and down. Because who wants to get off the seat?! I bet I can do the same with my crappy little dethatcher too

I think the top dress might be coming off the table too. I started looking at how much I would need and realized I am not equipped or motivated enough to spread 40 yards of compost. I might call around to see if any local landscapers are able, but it would be a big job regardless.

Am I basically locking myself out of driving the tractor on the lawn for the month or two after overseeding so I don't crush the new grass?
I would minimize travel on the grass as much as possible, both wheeled and foot traffic. However, since you are overseeding vs starting new, it's not AS critical.

I would, however, recommend waiting to mow the first time until the new grass is taller than normal, and cut it at a higher height.
 
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