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Do they work? What size should a guy get? Do they compact the turf too much? You always hear about compaction being bad. I'm considering building or buying a roller to help smooth my yard. I was looking at a 24x60 from Ohio Steel. Any suggestions?
 

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The bigger the better. Nothing beats a smooth lawn. Our horse pasture is smoother than our lawn.
 
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Do they work? What size should a guy get? Do they compact the turf too much? You always hear about compaction being bad. I'm considering building or buying a roller to help smooth my yard. I was looking at a 24x60 from Ohio Steel. Any suggestions?
Ahh answering questions in order.... yes. at least 1000lbs. too much? IMO no.

I have a 48" Agri Fab that weighs 920 full of water, and then my 66" custom built squirt that weighs 3500 full of 300 gals. of H2O.

My big one started out as a retired 500 propane tank with valves on the ends. Had ends cut off and end plates welded in. Was completely built by a local welding shop.. The used tank cost $25 and the building was like $680. Was built in Feb. of 2003 and the extra work I got the first two years paid for itself. I estimate it has covered at least 900 acres since built (100 +/-) every year.

The heaving from the freezing and thawing is what makes the yards rough, also mole runs. There is a huge difference when rolling, when I get to the end rows to turn the ride smooths out big time! Here in Illinois, prime rolling time is about a week or so after the frost leaves the ground and the ground kinda firms up but not too much.

I have had some people tell me to stay off their septic fields.. IMO, even my 3500 lb roller wont hurt anything.

P1000378.jpg

Behind my 2520
P1000393.jpg

This year my 2305
P1030036_zps8f85cc2e.jpg
 

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I have one like the little ones (but it is a poly roller and will not rust), and it does I nice job in flatten out the mole runs in my yard. I also used it when a reseeded part of my lawn to roll in the seeds.
 

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I have the Ohio Steel 24x52" metal one that weighs 920 lbs. I am very happy with it. It really flattens down the bumps. I bought mine at TSC on sale for $199
 
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Kenny,
Add this to the list of attachments you are going to buy so I can rent them from you. Maybe you should consider a membership where I just pay you monthly and can "check out" one attachment at a time. I think it will work out very well for me. :thumbup1gif:

Seriously, I have considered this before. My last yard was terrible. It was former hay/corn/soybean field (they alternated crops). I mowed for 9 years but still felt like I was mowing oversize corduroy! All I had back then was a ZTR and it was hardly equipped to drag a big roller. Someone told me that my only chance to smooth that yard with a roller would be to rent an asphalt roller for a day. Another guy wanted to tear the entire yard out and start fresh. I just got use to the machine bouncing like a bucking bronco.

My yard right now is prime for this effort. I am making dents just driving my tractor around. I am sure that a roller would really change the shape.

Now for the question for Newt. What happens on a yard with hills? Is this only a good idea on flat yard?

Lee
 

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Now for the question for Newt. What happens on a yard with hills? Is this only a good idea on flat yard?

Lee
O.K. for hill side 101. Hills can be fun, can be interesting, and can be very dangerous!

You can roll hills, sometimes going up 4wd is needed, sometimes going down too.

Turning downhill is a whole new ballgame.. When going down hill, and when you want to turn you get the tractor to turn, but the roller is still going strait ahead yet, this will scoot the rear of the tractor sideways till either it has the traction to pull through or the whole rig jackknifes. I have had the inside rear of my 2520 about a foot off the ground before jackknifed before and had to 4wd it to get out. It dont take a steep slope to do this, and in my case my roller outweighs the tractor 2 to 1. For just strait down hill runs I use 4wd sometimes just to keep the roller from pushing to much and loosing traction.

For uphills, here too I use 4wd sometimes, and turning on uphill slopes you will loose traction easy too. I have also noticed that under hard pulls uphill you will see noticable rear tire tracks due to the extra hard downward pull on the rear of the tractor.

Now, there are also times when rolling a sidehill (like a ditch) that the roller will start to slide sideways and if too much will stick you and pull the tractor sideways too. I done this once in a ditch. Was just gonna do two passes at the top didnt think I was in danger. Well, the roller slid sideways, pulled the rear of tractor sideways and I was done.. (my big roller and my old 2210) Had to pull everything out the farmers tractor.

I really have to be careful with my roller/tractor setup, and still do get caught offguard. A 1000 roller behind a 2305/1026 size tractor should have few problems, as with up to a 1500lb behind a 2520 size. But when your talking a 3000lb + its a whole new ballgame.
 

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Kenny,
Add this to the list of attachments you are going to buy so I can rent them from you. Maybe you should consider a membership where I just pay you monthly and can "check out" one attachment at a time. I think it will work out very well for me. :thumbup1gif:
How did I get thrown into this? Is this a test to see if I read everything :unknown:


:lol::laugh:
 

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Build one. Bring it over. Smooth my lawn. These are all things that should happen. :laugh:

Sounds like building one would be pretty simple, especially if you already had a 24" tube. Newt, how does the roller axle connect to the hitch?
 

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I have the Ohio Steel 24x52" metal one that weighs 920 lbs. I am very happy with it. It really flattens down the bumps. I bought mine at TSC on sale for $199
I have the same one and like it. Hooked to my 1026R the 3point arms scratched the roller because it has a short draw bar... Does make a difference. Really squashes mole tunnels down well!

-636
 

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Smaller tubes usually have higher compact (lbs per sq inch) ratings, less surface on the ground. Depending on weight of course.
 

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I have a 920# Ohio steel. I am very disappointed in the durability of it.

If I had a flat lawn it might have been fine but I have plenty of hills.. I pull it with my SCUT which has enough power to drag it wherever I want. The tongue is flimsy and should be beefed up no matter what lawn you have or what you pull it with. Everyone I have talked to that owned one complained about the tongue.

It has a shaft that runs through the drum and its bushed on the sides where the shaft passes through the sides. If you have enough power to drag it up and down the hills those bushings wont hold up. Basically they start to leak.

So I need to either cut an opening in in and fill it with sand or cut the covers off the side and solid weld plates on the ends to seal it up.

So right now its useless as it will only hold 1/2 water.

Just my two cents !
 

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I have the same one and like it. Hooked to my 1026R the 3point arms scratched the roller because it has a short draw bar... Does make a difference. Really squashes mole tunnels down well!

-636
I had a similar problem with my 2720. My workaround was to use a 2" receiver that fits on my quick hitch. I have a 2" hitch insert that has a tongue which mates to the roller. The extra distance of the quick hitch, receiver and hitch insert places the roller far enough behind the tractor that I can make sharp turns without the roller contacting anything.
 
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Build one. Bring it over. Smooth my lawn. These are all things that should happen. :laugh:

Sounds like building one would be pretty simple, especially if you already had a 24" tube. Newt, how does the roller axle connect to the hitch?
Im pretty sure I dont have a strait thru the drum axle. I just have 2" diameter stubs on both end plates, and holes in the frame work, basically a greasable bushing.


I had a similar problem with my 2720. My workaround was to use a 2" receiver that fits on my quick hitch. I have a 2" hitch insert that has a tongue which mates to the roller. The extra distance of the quick hitch, receiver and hitch insert places the roller far enough behind the tractor that I can make sharp turns without the roller contacting anything.
With my big roller and my 2520 (hooked on the drawbar) I can easily make a zero turn with the roller.. I dont use my 3pt hitches due to the weight of the roller..
 

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Snapped some pics today using my roller. Thought maybe they'd help.

-636
 

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Does John deere actually make a Lawn roller of their own?
There are none listed under CUT or SCUT implements but they do shown a 36" x 18" 390 lb roller in their garden tractor accessories catalog.
 

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Does John deere actually make a Lawn roller of their own?
Yes, I have one. I will dig for some pictures. It works good, I think...But I'm not a pro. It's a poly one. I was wondering how the pros feel about poly?
 
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