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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks, I’m new here so be gentle. Today my faithful 4400 had a fuel gauge issue. The needle rotates 270 degrees and still bounces around when running. When shut off it goes to full. Now here’s the stranger bits: 1) if I let it idle for a while the needle goes back to normal. 2) once I work a bit (gets hot) the needle goes to 6 o’clock. Does anyone have any ideas? Or maybe had the same issue?
 

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JD 455, 4610, 4052R, and 6120E
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This isn't quite the same issue, but it might give you some ideas. Since you say "When shut off it goes to full. ", that would suggest that your gauge has a problem since it should go to zero when the key is turned off and it is no longer monitoring the fuel level sender.

A few months ago the fuel gauge on my 2004 4610 started showing a large offset error. It read more than full when the tank was full, and showed nearly half full when the tractor is turned off instead of going to zero as it should. I started by disconnecting the fuel sender and measuring the resistance of the full and empty positions, and it was reading correctly per the technical manual, so I knew I had a gauge problem.

Here is what it looked like both before and after removing the instrument cluster from the tractor.

787904


And the same story after removing the cluster from the outer housing.

787905


What I discovered was that the fuel gauge needle was barely inserted into the gauge rotating post and it was quite easy to bump it and get it to move to a new (incorrect) position.

I simply removed the needle with a light pull, then carefully pressed it back on at the correct zero position. I noticed that after pressing it back in, that I could not easily move it. Several months later, the fuel gauge is still reading correctly.

787906
 

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Check your sending unit. Procedure in the tech manual.
Do this first. When the unit failed on my 4200, it would swing wildly and was forced across the empty post and the shaft spun in the needle. Test/fix the sending unit and then disassemble the cluster to reposition the needle.

BTW, when the sending unit failed, it functioned normally some when the tank was mostly full. I had to remove it and slowly move the float to successfully diagnose it with a multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This isn't quite the same issue, but it might give you some ideas. Since you say "When shut off it goes to full. ", that would suggest that your gauge has a problem since it should go to zero when the key is turned off and it is no longer monitoring the fuel level sender.

A few months ago the fuel gauge on my 2004 4610 started showing a large offset error. It read more than full when the tank was full, and showed nearly half full when the tractor is turned off instead of going to zero as it should. I started by disconnecting the fuel sender and measuring the resistance of the full and empty positions, and it was reading correctly per the technical manual, so I knew I had a gauge problem.

Here is what it looked like both before and after removing the instrument cluster from the tractor.

View attachment 787904

And the same story after removing the cluster from the outer housing.

View attachment 787905

What I discovered was that the fuel gauge needle was barely inserted into the gauge rotating post and it was quite easy to bump it and get it to move to a new (incorrect) position.

I simply removed the needle with a light pull, then carefully pressed it back on at the correct zero position. I noticed that after pressing it back in, that I could not easily move it. Several months later, the fuel gauge is still reading correctly.

View attachment 787906
JD Driver! You are the man! It took me a while, but I finally had some time (and a rainy day) to work on this. You were 100% correct. The needle had loosened on the shaft. I removed the instrument cluster and repositioned the needle and pressed it firmly. the gas guage works every time so far. As a side note, I find myself turning on the ignition just to confirm it still works. Thanks again.
 

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JD 455, 4610, 4052R, and 6120E
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JD Driver! You are the man! It took me a while, but I finally had some time (and a rainy day) to work on this. You were 100% correct. The needle had loosened on the shaft. I removed the instrument cluster and repositioned the needle and pressed it firmly. the gas guage works every time so far. As a side note, I find myself turning on the ignition just to confirm it still works. Thanks again.
Glad to hear this is working for you! Mine is still working well too.

I was out mowing this evening and filled up the 4610 before starting. For whatever reason, mine is now reporting a full tank better than it ever did even when new. It used to only read a little over 3/4 tank with a full tank, but now it reads nearly full as it should.

Perhaps the needle was initially placed on the shaft in a position that always made it read low until I re-positioned it.
 

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My 1999 4300 has just picked up a fuel needle fault, sitting just like @JD Driver so I guess I'll be pulling the gauge cluster. I might even release some of the dust from inside the screen.... Have any of you tried spraying the inside of the lens with that anti-fog spray? I see mine gets foggy on those cold damp days.
I love GTT, there's always solutions, even before you realize you have a problem!
 
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JD 455, 4610, 4052R, and 6120E
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My 1999 4300 has just picked up a fuel needle fault, sitting just like @JD Driver so I guess I'll be pulling the gauge cluster. I might even release some of the dust from inside the screen.... Have any of you tried spraying the inside of the lens with that anti-fog spray? I see mine gets foggy on those cold damp days.
I love GTT, there's always solutions, even before you realize you have a problem!
The worst part of the job was getting the steering wheel off. The steering wheel is plastic, but has a splined metal insert molded into the wheel that secures it with a nut to the steering wheel shaft.

The technical manual just says "Remove steering wheel. If necessary, use a suitable puller." No mention what a suitable puller is, or how you pull a steering wheel without any threaded holes to attach a steering wheel puller!

Some say you can just grab the wheel and yank it off, but mine wasn't having any of that. I tried all kinds of things including connecting a ratchet strap around the bottom of the steering wheel and pulling up (with a roof rafter) while I used penetrating oil and beating on the center shaft with a brass drift, but never could get it to budge.

I finally put a bearing splitter under the wheel so I could use a 3 jaw puller, but there wasn't enough room between the bottom of the steering wheel and the steering wheel tilt mechanism housing to get to the steering shaft, so it was pulling on the bottom of the plastic steering wheel.

789689


789690


Unfortunately, the metal insert stayed firmly attached to the steering shaft, and was pulled out of the plastic steering wheel.

789691


I was able to pull the metal insert from the steering shaft after the steering wheel was out of the way, but it was still a fight.

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789694


I was able to press the metal insert back into the steering wheel and use it temporarily, but I ordered a new steering wheel to "do it right".

Knowing what I know now about the design of this steering wheel, if I had to do this again, I would fabricate a slotted heavy metal bar that would slide under the wheel/insert and allow me to pull both as an assembly.
 

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Hmmmm..... Looks like I'll be pricing a steering wheel before I start this one.
Great pictures!
 
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