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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, the 2018+ 1025R headlights are totally different than the older ones. They use conventional H4 headlight bulbs and reflector housings designed for them. I put in LED H4 bulbs in them, replacing the stock halogen bulbs (plug and play). Still not very impressive. Bright but the light is just kind splattered in front of the tractor and not very useful. I used the alignment screws to get them even and where they should be. Still sucked. So I switched the wire from the low beam slot to the high beam slot on the plug. Holy crap. Headlights no longer suck.

I wouldn't suggest doing this with the halogen bulbs due to heat and current. The LEDs use less current and dissipate heat out the back.
Be sure to install the LED facing the correct direction, with the little shield facing down. I used these LED H4 bulbs, totally plug and play. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GZ3S4P


Pre 2018 were different. The headlights used the same bulb as the worklights, a #862 fog light bulb. Crappy light compared to these. My previous thread from my 1026r LED upgrade is here. That describes the older style headlights, as well the work lights and flashers. Short version, the fender work lights (all years) and the 2011-2017 headlights use these LED #862 bulbs.

 

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That’s not a bad mod, but I do run the road and have had too on several occasions at night, would really upset oncoming traffic.


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That’s not a bad mod, but I do run the road and have had too on several occasions at night, would really upset oncoming traffic.
That was my thought as well. The light is impressive as long as you never go anywhere near a public road at night. The standard work lights are even a bit harsh to on-coming traffic, those LED high beams would be absolutely blinding.
 

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Funny you should mention that. My next project will address that. When I reinstalling and wiring up the LED lights up on the ROPS, they will be on the work light circuit. While I'm at it, I'm going to run a wire up to the headlights. So with the switch on 2, you'll have the low beams and flashers (what JD calls "road"). And when you turn the switch to work lights (what JD calls "field"), you'll have all the work lights and the high beams. So that would actually let you switch high/low beams on the road just like a car.
 

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So, the 2018+ 1025R headlights are totally different than the older ones. They use conventional H4 headlight bulbs and reflector housings designed for them. I put in LED H4 bulbs in them, replacing the stock halogen bulbs (plug and play). Still not very impressive. Bright but the light is just kind splattered in front of the tractor and not very useful. I used the alignment screws to get them even and where they should be. Still sucked. So I switched the wire from the low beam slot to the high beam slot on the plug. Holy crap. Headlights no longer suck.

I wouldn't suggest doing this with the halogen bulbs due to heat and current. The LEDs use less current and dissipate heat out the back.
Be sure to install the LED facing the correct direction, with the little shield facing down. I used these LED H4 bulbs, totally plug and play. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GZ3S4P


Pre 2018 were different. The headlights used the same bulb as the worklights, a #862 fog light bulb. Crappy light compared to these. My previous thread from my 1026r LED upgrade is here. That describes the older style headlights, as well the work lights and flashers. Short version, the fender work lights (all years) and the 2011-2017 headlights use these LED #862 bulbs.

So if I’m understanding you right, Deere Sped’d a hi-lo bulb, but the switch (& wiring) only is connected to the low beam? I’m not near my tractor so I can’t go check.
 

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So if I’m understanding you right, Deere Sped’d a hi-lo bulb, but the switch (& wiring) only is connected to the low beam? I’m not near my tractor so I can’t go check.
Correct
 

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Hank you for the great information. I just can’t remember which bulbs mine has. Time to check when I get home.
 

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Is there a rubber boot at back of bulb you need to modify or did you just leave it off?

If the latter are you worried about water getting inside the housing?
 

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Funny you should mention that. My next project will address that. When I reinstalling and wiring up the LED lights up on the ROPS, they will be on the work light circuit. While I'm at it, I'm going to run a wire up to the headlights. So with the switch on 2, you'll have the low beams and flashers (what JD calls "road"). And when you turn the switch to work lights (what JD calls "field"), you'll have all the work lights and the high beams. So that would actually let you switch high/low beams on the road just like a car.
Obviously THIS is how it should work! low beam for 'road', high beam for 'field'!

Where will you 'source' the new wire for the headlights? All the way from the base of the ROPS? ...the bullet connectors for the aux lights?

One more dumb question. If I understand correctly, with this approach, you'll be powering BOTH the low beam AND high beam at the same time, while in field mode, right? Low beam from the standard wire, and high beam from the new wire in 'field only' mode. Will this hurt the bulb?

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Obviously THIS is how it should work! low beam for 'road', high beam for 'field'!

Where will you 'source' the new wire for the headlights? All the way from the base of the ROPS? ...the bullet connectors for the aux lights?

One more dumb question. If I understand correctly, with this approach, you'll be powering BOTH the low beam AND high beam at the same time, while in field mode, right? Low beam from the standard wire, and high beam from the new wire in 'field only' mode. Will this hurt the bulb?

Tim
Tim, I will splice into the field wire at the headlight switch under the dash. Much easier than going all the way from the back. With the bulbs I used, the low beams cut off when power is applied to the high side. There are other bulbs that will allow both to run at the same time. The latter usually has fans or other beefed up cooling.
 

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Great thread!
Im going to be doing some lighting wiring over the Winter, and might just add this to the list.
Im fine with the stock type bulbs in mine, and really dont like LED or HID bulbs in housings that werent designed for them. Even in "low beam" mode, they can be blinding.

An easy setup for those wondering, would just be to run the main light wiring through a relay, then, when the switch was activated, the relay would disconnect that circuit and power the second, which would run the high beam.
Youd just need a relay with a pass through in its inactive state. Easy to find. Most have terminals labeled 30, 87a, 87, 86, 85.

Power from the switch to the common terminal, 30, then to the inactive pass through, 87a.
High beam positive wire would be connected to 87.
Your switch would connect positive power to 85 or 86, and ground the other side.
Alternatively, you could power 85 or 86 using a jumper from 30, then ground the other side with the switch, but that might not work if using a lighted switch.
Since the lighting circuit is already fused before the switch, you shouldnt need any additional fuses, unless you are using a powered switch to activate it, in which case you could tie in to the fuse block or add your own fuse.
 
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