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Discussion Starter #1
Can some suggest a good LED replacement for the headlights and side work lights. And a link to where to purchase? Thanks!!
 

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I don't have any info but... What model tractor are you trying to find these for? Peeps will need to know that you give accurate info. :good2:
 

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Can some suggest a good LED replacement for the headlights and side work lights. And a link to where to purchase? Thanks!!
Look in the following thread
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/20323-1025r-led-hid.html


Kind Regards,
mdgilbreath
1990 YJ Jeep Wrangler

1026R / H120 FEL with a WR Long Tooth Bar
Kens Bolt on Grab Hooks http://www.boltonhooks.com
54"quick detach deck
Frontier bush hog-2048
Frontier box blade-2048
JD - imatch hitch
25 Gallon 12 volt Sprayer County Line from TSC
3 Point hitch rig with a 2" receiver bar for sprayer
2" Ball mount to pull utility trailer[/QUOTE]
 

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I sell quite a few LED lights at my day job. Just buying the bulbs to install into your existing halogen housings will never work as well as the projector or reflector style LED lights.

Another thing to remember is.
A halogen light produces most of it's heat in the front of the light. This will help melt any snow or ice off of the light while plowing or using a snow blower.
An LED produces most of it's heat at the rear of the light. This can help melt the plastic housing that holds the bulb. So be careful.

I upgraded the headlights on my 2014 X540 from the stock 1156 style incandescent bulbs to the JD halogen bulb upgrade kit. Wow what a difference. Was definitely worth the $60.
When I bought the kit home it also came with 2 metal heat shields. The instructions stated to glue them to the reflectors over the top of the light bulbs. However it didn't specify if I needed to use them on my X540. My dealer had to contact JD for an answer to my question. As it turns out I didn't need to use them. I just wanted to be sure that I would not melt the plastic reflectors. So far so good.
 

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I upgraded my lights on my 1025r to LED. I left the original lights in the front and work positions and installed this 120w LED bar on the ROPS...

$48 on Amazon and it lights up the front real nice. :bigthumb:

Also solves the problem of the headlights being blocked by the FEL.

20160805_154712.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I sell quite a few LED lights at my day job. Just buying the bulbs to install into your existing halogen housings will never work as well as the projector or reflector style LED lights.

Another thing to remember is.
A halogen light produces most of it's heat in the front of the light. This will help melt any snow or ice off of the light while plowing or using a snow blower.
An LED produces most of it's heat at the rear of the light. This can help melt the plastic housing that holds the bulb. So be careful.

I upgraded the headlights on my 2014 X540 from the stock 1156 style incandescent bulbs to the JD halogen bulb upgrade kit. Wow what a difference. Was definitely worth the $60.
When I bought the kit home it also came with 2 metal heat shields. The instructions stated to glue them to the reflectors over the top of the light bulbs. However it didn't specify if I needed to use them on my X540. My dealer had to contact JD for an answer to my question. As it turns out I didn't need to use them. I just wanted to be sure that I would not melt the plastic reflectors. So far so good.
Wow!! Thank you very much for taking the time to explain these things to me as I'm not very knowledgeable on this stuff. I really appreciate the input!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I upgraded my lights on my 1025r to LED. I left the original lights in the front and work positions and installed this 120w LED bar on the ROPS...

$48 on Amazon and it lights up the front real nice. :bigthumb:

Also solves the problem of the headlights being blocked by the FEL.

View attachment 232274
Really nice!!! Thanks for sharing that!!
 

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I recently added LED lighting to my 2305. Although I would have preferred to have the lights mounted at or above the height of the ROPS, I opted to mount the lights below to reduce the risk of tree limbs breaking the lights. Here is the thread I posted.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/74978-2305-lighting.html#post1108722
That was really nice what you did! I really liked the rocker switches!! Fantastic!! Thanks for sharing that!
 

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I upgraded my lights on my 1025r to LED. I left the original lights in the front and work positions and installed this 120w LED bar on the ROPS...

$48 on Amazon and it lights up the front real nice. :bigthumb:

Also solves the problem of the headlights being blocked by the FEL.

View attachment 232274
I like your light bar install.... I have a couple of questions as I am going to add some LED lights to my new 1025R:
  • I see that you have one of your ROPS pins hanging, which leads me to believe you normally have your ROPS folded down. If that is the case, what did you do to eliminate the possibility of the LED wires stretching when folding the top half of the ROPS over?
  • How does your light work in terms of what turns them on? The headlamp knob? What position turns them on? My brother wired his with a 'remote' control harness... and has a remote key fob he hangs on his ignition key ring... he can turn the LED light bar on/off independently of his regular lights that way.
  • Did you run your LED light bar wires down into the ROPS to conceal the wire, or did you zip tie the wire on the external side of the rops?
  • How did you wire the LED light bar? did you go directly to the battery or tie in to one of the accessory/extra wires I have read in other posts that is hanging in the back of the tractor?

Any chance you could take some close-up detailed shots of your LED light bar install and wiring? Would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
 

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I like your light bar install.... I have a couple of questions as I am going to add some LED lights to my new 1025R:
  • I see that you have one of your ROPS pins hanging, which leads me to believe you normally have your ROPS folded down. If that is the case, what did you do to eliminate the possibility of the LED wires stretching when folding the top half of the ROPS over?
  • How does your light work in terms of what turns them on? The headlamp knob? What position turns them on? My brother wired his with a 'remote' control harness... and has a remote key fob he hangs on his ignition key ring... he can turn the LED light bar on/off independently of his regular lights that way.
  • Did you run your LED light bar wires down into the ROPS to conceal the wire, or did you zip tie the wire on the external side of the rops?
  • How did you wire the LED light bar? did you go directly to the battery or tie in to one of the accessory/extra wires I have read in other posts that is hanging in the back of the tractor?

Any chance you could take some close-up detailed shots of your LED light bar install and wiring? Would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
I'll start a new thread once I get pictures taken but here are the basic textual answers

ROPS - I have to lower my ROPS to get in my garage so I do lower it quite often. I ran the wires through the center of the ROPS all the way to the bottom of the ROPS (not the pivot point). I also left plenty of slack in the wires so that they don't have to pivot too hard when folding the ROPS.

Because it required 9.4 amps to run the light bar, I opted for a 12 gauge wire. This is a pretty substantial wire, it is something that is not going to have a light covering or lack of good internal support. It is larger gauge than I needed but I wasn't so sure I wouldn't run one out the back of the ROPS too. At this point if I did put a second LED on the rear I would run a new lead to a new switch. If I do that, I will probably run another 12g wire all the way just because of the durability.

I followed the factory wiring harness down the left side and under the seat to the pedestal. I also looked through the existing fuse block to see if I could scavenge anything from there. I wasted about an hour tracing the existing panel and just ditched using it.

I decided to run the hot wire from the LED leads (they were about a foot long) all the way to the switch I installed in the pedestal under the steering wheel. From the switch, I put an in-line fuse and ran it directly to the battery lead on the starter terminal. The switch itself needed a ground (it is lighted when it is on) so I ran it to the other side of the motor and tied it into the chassis ground which is just under the head on the right side of the motor.

Doing it this way means that my ground does not run from the LED to the motor ground. That meant less wire needed to fish through the factory harness. The ground for the LED I tied into an existing ground on the main harness. On the left rear just under the 3 point there is a bundle of wires terminated with bullet type connectors. I found an empty ground there and used it to ground the light. I didn't have the right size bullet connector so I just clipped the connector off and did a butt splice. The existing return lead looks like it is probably 18 gauge wire. I know it is a little thin but looking at the circuit there shouldn't be any spikes or stray voltages to let the smoke out of that ground...time will tell!

The center hole on the top of the ROPS was exactly the same diameter of the shielded wires that came with my light bar. I had to grease them up to get them into the ROPS but it makes a very good seal. I chose to route inside the ROPS for two reasons, first, it looks good to have your wires tucked it. Second, I mow under tree limbs every week and eliminating anything that could snag and yank seemed prudent.

To mount the light bar I drilled and tapped two 1/4" 20 holes directly into the ROPS. I was going to mount it underneath the ROPS but I have plans that maybe I will install a second one that is rear facing. I am a good neighbor so I don't run my equipment after dark but that doesn't mean I wont find a need to break that rule at some point. I was thinking of having the box blade on for snow removal this winter and perhaps some rear operations would be good for lighting so I may still be looking to add another to the rear. If I mounted this one under the ROPS I would still have to mount the rear facing one on the face of the ROPS. The way I have it now adding a new rear facing light bar is pretty straight forward as I would simply mount it on the other side of the ROPS in the same position just facing the rear.

I'll try and get some picture up this weekend. When I do I will neaten up the answers here and annotate the pictures to help others understand what I did.
 
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