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Discussion Starter #1
The dealer told me to run any 3rd party LED light wiring directly to the battery and to NOT use the accessory wiring in the back of the tractor. He said they are seeing several people melting their factory wiring for some reason, and it's expensive to repair.

Anyway... how does a person attach an LED wiring harness 'to the battery?' Can anyone show me an actual photo of how this is accomplished, or provide a good explanation along with links to any possible termination connectors that attach to the battery posts or terminals?

Any other cautionary advice would be appreciated. My brother tied his wiring harness into the hot wire of the factory wire going from the battery to the starter.... I believe that is what he said.

But that sounds like it is dangerous some how - not that I know jack squat about electrical. But I am willing to learn. Thanks.
 

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This kit looks like what you need.

Switch/relay/wire/fuse.

I breezed through vid. but it looked right.

I think there is a link to buy from ebay as well....?

 

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If you want plug and play, that kit will give you everything in a nice clean package. As for a photo, I added a 2nd nut on the end of the bolt for the battery clamp and then just did a ring terminal on the end of the cable. This photo doesn't show the actual terminal but gives you the idea. I switched the full load for the LED lights since I bought switches that I felt comfortable handling the 6A load. The relay in the kit gives you the ability to safely draw up to the rating of the relay and the secondary wiring run to and from the relay.

IMG_20160811_185331302.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you want plug and play, that kit will give you everything in a nice clean package. As for a photo, I added a 2nd nut on the end of the bolt for the battery clamp and then just did a ring terminal on the end of the cable. This photo doesn't show the actual terminal but gives you the idea. I switched the full load for the LED lights since I bought switches that I felt comfortable handling the 6A load. The relay in the kit gives you the ability to safely draw up to the rating of the relay and the secondary wiring run to and from the relay.

View attachment 238346
Thanks - so, basically you placed the 'ring terminal end' on the terminal bolt after the first secured 'nut'.... and then added a second nut on the end of the terminal bolt and tightened it down to your 'ring terminal end?'

That makes sense to me... and you can probably do this with two different power wires for two different lightbars if you want, right?

Does the negative wire go over to the negative terminal in the same way? Thanks.
 

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Thanks - so, basically you placed the 'ring terminal end' on the terminal bolt after the first secured 'nut'.... and then added a second nut on the end of the terminal bolt and tightened it down to your 'ring terminal end?'

That makes sense to me... and you can probably do this with two different power wires for two different lightbars if you want, right?

Does the negative wire go over to the negative terminal in the same way? Thanks.
That is exactly how I did the positive run. I ran a larger wire to where I installed my switches and then soldered a split connection to the switches.

I chose to use the frame in the back for the ground wire. I did not use the ROPS for ground, in part because I didn't want to do any drilling on the ROPS. I ran it down to a bold on the frame but in the back of the tractor. There is some risk to that approach and a home run back to the battery is always optimal.

Hope this helps.

Lee
 

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I find it hard to believe any led light would draw enough amps to cause a problem with the factory wiring. I installed a rear facing 55w halogen light into the aux rear harness, per the advice of my dealer, with no problems going on 4 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I find it hard to believe any led light would draw enough amps to cause a problem with the factory wiring. I installed a rear facing 55w halogen light into the aux rear harness, per the advice of my dealer, with no problems going on 4 years now.
Well, that was my impression too. I was a little surprised to hear him say that because it seems many on this board have used those auxiliary wires for exactly that purpose. Not being an electrician, I am easily scared off when it comes to these things. LOL....

Do you have any pics of your install you would mind sharing?
 

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My 22" 120 watt LED bar is rated at 9.2 amps. I was shocked that it drew that much but then again it makes the night go away when you flip the switch on. LEDs don't draw that much but when you couple 40 of them together it adds up.
 
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