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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I purchased 2 of these 'Auxbeam' LED lights - see attached photo.

I would like to install one on the top of my brake light guards to use for rear visibility when out snowblowing, etc.

Questions are as follows:
  • Based on the photo of the box showing specifications, are these 3 watts or 18 watts?
  • It appears my 1025 R has two sets of accessory light 'plugs' tied up on either side of the tractor at the bottom of the ROPS. Do both of these tie into the 'light switch?'
  • Can I actively have two of these LED lights plugged in.... one on each side.... and have them running at the same time in conjunction with my forward OEM lights without causing an electrical problem/melt-down?
  • Wiring: would I wire the 'black' wire of the LED light shown, to the black wire of the OEM supplied wiring harness and the 'red' wire of the LED light to the 'purple' wire of the OEM wiring harness?
  • What size / gauge wire should I run between the LED lights and the OEM wire harness?
  • Any other considerations, warnings, thoughts?
  • Do they make male/female plug ends that I can attach to my wiring that will plug into the OEM male/female plug ends supplied on the tractor?
I am not an electrician, obviously.... so appreciate your detailed thoughts and instructions.

Thanks good people!
 

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It's actually one of the easiest DIY upgrades to do on these tractors. JD has provided the wiring harness near the bottom of each side of the ROPS. They have bullet connectors on them, then just fish the wire up through the ROPS and done. I mounted my rear facing lights using one of the turn/brake light bolts.

A quick search on here in the search bar will brings lots of reading, I didn't link any that I found as there are a LOT, I simply typed "adding lights" in the search bar.
 

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A 12 volt test light is your best friend just to be safe and make sure you are wiring correctly. Test the wires for power source (which is normally red, but ALWAYS confirm). If you don't have a 12 volt test light, pick one up and you will be glad you did.

Amazon.com: 12 volt test light

Since the tractor came with non LED lights, the tractor's harness wire is likely heavier than the wire on the lights. As long as the wire you are connecting the lights to is as heavy or heavier (which I would bet it is) than the connection shouldn't be an issue. What you would want to avoid is connecting lights on the machine to smaller diameter, lighter wire than on the lights themselves, which I don't think will happen.

If you connect the lights into the existing harness they should work on the switch. Being LED lights, their power draw is lower than traditional "bulb lights". Again, the 12 volt test light will confirm the switch function for you.

Personally, one feature I made sure to have on my tractor was to wire the rear work lights so I could turn them on and off while not affecting the front work lights. There are many situations where being able to turn off the rear work lights is very handy. Also, make sure the lights are positioned so when you turn to look over your shoulder, the lights are not affecting your vision or field of view. These LED lights are WICKED bright and make a big difference.

Also, I suggest you wait until it is dark outside before you tighten the aiming position of your lights because you will likely aim them differently when you see how and where they illuminate. One thing for certain, the LED lights are the way to go. Just be aware that your bright lights can actually blind drivers of cars or others who might come up behind you they are so bright. You don't want to have someone risk running into you because the lights are so bright that they can't see you..............I always turn off my rear LED's when a vehicle approaches me from behind because I have personally witnessed how bright my rear lights truly are............

I would imagine the actual power draw of your lights will be 3 watts per light. I doubt they pull 18 watts or you are going to have a problem as your going to be taxing the alternator on your tractor. It seems like the OEM alternator is 40watts if memory serves me.

Also, I strongly suggest you use "Heat shrink" connectors when adding electrical items to your machine. These are higher quality electrical connectors which you crimp onto the wires and then heat the connector to "shrink" the sealing part of the connector to make the connection more weather resistant and also stronger. Heat shrink connectors are the only type I use on any vehicles or 12 volt items which are subjected to weather. This is one example of heat shrink connectors.

Amazon.com: TICONN 6543871333 200PCS Heat Shrink Connectors Kit, Insulated Waterproof Electrical Marine Automotive Wire Crimp Terminals, Butt Splice (3 Colors / 3 Sizes): RoMech Direct
 

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Hi all,

I purchased 2 of these 'Auxbeam' LED lights - see attached photo.

I would like to install one on the top of my brake light guards to use for rear visibility when out snowblowing, etc.

Questions are as follows:
  • Based on the photo of the box showing specifications, are these 3 watts or 18 watts? Since the packaging is vague, most likely 3W per chip, 18W per head (6 chips per head). 18W is a 1.5 amp draw at 12V. 2 lights will be an additional 3 amps on the system. I added a single 36W light to mine without any problems. The stock alternator is 40 amps. You'll be fine.
  • It appears my 1025 R has two sets of accessory light 'plugs' tied up on either side of the tractor at the bottom of the ROPS. Do both of these tie into the 'light switch?' Yes. Purple is positive (+) (wire 147), black is negative (-) (wire 010). The black will have continuity to the tractors frame (which is connected to the batterys negative terminal). The purple will energize when the light switch is in the 'field' position. This is the position that turns on the work lights on the fenders.
  • Can I actively have two of these LED lights plugged in.... one on each side.... and have them running at the same time in conjunction with my forward OEM lights without causing an electrical problem/melt-down? You should be ok. JD has already designed those bullet plugs and associated wiring to be able to add their own add-on light kit. I don't remember the specs of their light kit, but I believe it draws a little more than the lights you want to install.
  • Wiring: would I wire the 'black' wire of the LED light shown, to the black wire of the OEM supplied wiring harness and the 'red' wire of the LED light to the 'purple' wire of the OEM wiring harness? Yes, black to black, red to purple.
  • What size / gauge wire should I run between the LED lights and the OEM wire harness?18 ga minimum would be my choice. I used 14 ga as I had it on hand. You want the crimp on connector to be the proper size to match the gage of wire you're using also. Or you could solder & heat-shrink the connections.
  • Any other considerations, warnings, thoughts?
  • Do they make male/female plug ends that I can attach to my wiring that will plug into the OEM male/female plug ends supplied on the tractor? Yes, but I don't have that information. Others may chime in with the specs or part numbers of the bullet connectors. If you search GTT, as Pat mentioned, there are threads out there that have the specs/numbers listed. If you go with bullet connectors, be sure they are weathertight, like the ones on the tractor.
I am not an electrician, obviously.... so appreciate your detailed thoughts and instructions.

Thanks good people!
Word
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Awesome! Thanks Sullybear and Kylew !! You guys are the best.

Sully - is it complicated to wire the rear work lights so that they can be turned 'on/off' independently of the front facing lights? That sounds desirable....

Also, did you say that the 'rear work lights' only work in the 'field lights' light switch position? Is that with both the front and 'fender' mounted lights on?

If so, does that mean that if just the 'tractor headlights' are on, and the fender lights off... the work lights will be off also? I can probably live with that if wiring it independently is more than this simple mind can handle.

Thanks again!!
 

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If you don't mind me answering....

If you're mechanically inclined, it's not complicated, even if you don't do much electrical work. It may seem daunting, but it's really not. I'm not saying there isn't work involved, but just take it one step at a time.

What I answered before was just your questions, as you were asking about using the bullet connectors. As you can see, the bullet connectors for adding lights are spliced into the same wire that powers the fender work lights. Purple (147) and Black (010). I don't know where the factory put those splices. The purple splice may be inline somewhere along the harness, or it may be in the connector at the switch. Since there are bullet connectors on both the left and right side in the back, along with 2 fender work lights invovled, it would cost less for the factory to make independent splices in the harness near where the work lights split from the fender lights, and to do it on both sides. In other words, they probably ran one purple wire from the switch, then spliced and split it to go both left and right, then split it again to feed the fenders and work lights. The black wire is probably spliced with a few others in the back of the tractor, and then one wire is run up to the dash to splice in with others, and then attached to the frame (negative of the battery, commonly refered to as ground, though it's not truly a ground). See the wire diagram below:

SmartSelect_20191128-223348_Xodo Docs.jpg

SmartSelect_20191128-223448_Xodo Docs.jpg

Unless the factory ran a separate wire from the switch to the purple bullet connectors, it would not be advantageous to use the purple bullet connector if you want to run your new lights off a separate switch. You could use the black bullet connector for 'ground' if you wish, as that wire doesn't need to be switched.

To answer your question of whether the rear work lights only work in the 'field lights' light switch position, Yes, the purple bullet connector gets power at the same time the fender lights do. In the 'field lights' position, the headlights, marker lights, fender lights, and your new work lights would be on, if you connected to the bullet connectors. In the 'road lights' position, only the headlights, marker lights and flashers are on. Not the fender lights nor the work lights.

Now, after that brief description, here's what I did. I ran new wires in a separate conduit (plastic loom tubing) from the light to the dash, and put in a separate switch. The separate switch allows me to turn on the light without having any other lights on if I wish. My light is mounted in the center of the upper bar of the ROPS. Not a great picture, but you can see it here. The wires I fished exit out the ROPS, but is hidden by the bucket in the picture.

20190615_145030.jpg

I drilled a hole in the ROPS for the wire to exit at the light, the wire loom is fished inside the ROPS and exits out the bottom by where the bullet connectors are (actually I pulled the loom up from the bottom to the light). I removed the floorboard and the dash lower cowl panel and got the loom to up under the dash, following an existing harness and zip-tying the loom to it as I went. The newer 1025s don't have a lower cowl panel that is easily removed, but it has a side access door that may allow you to fish the wires up behind the dash.

For the switch, I popped out the switch plug on the lower left side of the dash (where the independent mower lift switch would go), and used this switch I got from Amazon. I had to trim the opening a little with a utility knife, but the switch fit perfect. The switch came with a few jumper wires that makes it easier to hook up and get the backlight of the switch to light up. Also, behind the dash by where the switch goes, is a connector for the mower lift switch that I cut into and got my 12V feed and ground for the light.

610ovwnVGwL._SX679_.jpg

Link to Amazon: Nilight Rocker Switch
 

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This is the wire loom I used. It's 1/2" diameter, and I wish I would have used larger, maybe 3/4". I only pulled in 2-14 ga wires, but it wasn't easy. It's 5 meters long and it didn't help that it wasn't split along its length. But that's fine, I wouldn't want it split anyways.

515pGcVp-dL.jpg

Link to Amazon: 1/2" Wire Loom

It's your call as to whether you want the new lights to work with the fender lights or independently. Doing an independent switch just takes some time but it's not that complicated. And you know you can always ask for help.
 

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Joe, I did not read all the details here.

However, I found what I call pig tails at TSC that had the male and female connectors on both ends of the two wires. whole thing is about 4" long. Just wack it in half and you got two of the two prong plug ins for the back bullet plugs on the tractor.
 

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Joe, I did not read all the details here.

However, I found what I call pig tails at TSC that had the male and female connectors on both ends of the two wires. whole thing is about 4" long. Just wack it in half and you got two of the two prong plug ins for the back bullet plugs on the tractor.
Yep. That’s what i used. Well the one i used was way longer and. 1025r Lights---magnet mounts


1025r Lights---magnet mounts
 

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Awesome! Thanks Sullybear and Kylew !! You guys are the best.

Sully - is it complicated to wire the rear work lights so that they can be turned 'on/off' independently of the front facing lights? That sounds desirable....

Also, did you say that the 'rear work lights' only work in the 'field lights' light switch position? Is that with both the front and 'fender' mounted lights on?

If so, does that mean that if just the 'tractor headlights' are on, and the fender lights off... the work lights will be off also? I can probably live with that if wiring it independently is more than this simple mind can handle.

Thanks again!!
It's not hard to get the lights on their own switch, you just need another harness and switch and they are readily available on Amazon. Its going to be more work than simply splicing in the lights, but its nice having the lights on their own switch as I don't use the rear lights nearly as much as the front work lights.

Also, I switched the front work lights to LED, which means both front work lights (now LED) and rear work lights (also LED) draw less power than the front factory work lights drew. There are also many great answers after the reply you posted to which I am replying, including some with Schematics (BMV)so I will wait to see which direction you go before providing too much more details as you likely will want to consider different options and methods......
 

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I did this...
I have since pointed them across (left light points right and vice versa)...makes better use of the beams.

Lights up my 3 point area really nice.
I used the fender mount bolts... perfect spot.
18 watt lights (6x3w led)
(the wiring has been neatly tied away...)

rearlamps.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
With the sage advice from all of you above.... I combined suggestions and got my LED Rear Work Lights mounted.

I first mounted the John Deere 'light guards'..... which had a pre-drilled hole on the top flat surface.

Then I loosely mounted the LED lights to the top of these.... the nuts/bolts just barely cleared the small space between my oem blinker lights and the top flat of the metal light guard.

I fished my wires (encased in 3/8" split plastic loom down the ROPS as suggested.... and made my connections at the tractor using the Tractor Supply Trailer plug pigtails that was suggested above by another member.... these worked perfectly, although - again, as susggested, I did have to trim a wee bit off the weatherproof rubber 'hood' of the female OEM bullet plug connector so that the tsc male bullet plug seated all the way in without obstruction.

After both sides were installed, I waited till dark and aimed the lights to my overall desired distance, and then tightened all the mounting hardware of the lights.

Everything seems very sturdy.

I guess I should mention that I did take the easy way out and simply wired these to the OEM connectors that work with the 'field setting' of the factory light knob.... being as I didn't have it in me to figure out separate switches, etc..... which would have really been ideal. This will work well for me though.

Thanks again guys for all your fantastic advice... I don't know what I would have done without it!!!
 

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Nicely done, JoeFriday.......You did a great job and You will find the LED lights very valuable. Should you ever want to add more lights, just ask as that is what we are here for..........Plus KyleW is a Professional Electrician and knows these things inside and out..............and he is generous in sharing his wisdom and experience...........

If you use your tractor near the road for clearing snow, you might want to add some safety lighting, either flashing or otherwise drawing attention to your machine. The LED lights are great for you the operator but you also want to make sure others see you so you remain safe when using the machine.....
 

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Nicely done, JoeFriday.......You did a great job and You will find the LED lights very valuable. Should you ever want to add more lights, just ask as that is what we are here for..........Plus KyleW is a Professional Electrician and knows these things inside and out..............and he is generous in sharing his wisdom and experience...........

If you use your tractor near the road for clearing snow, you might want to add some safety lighting, either flashing or otherwise drawing attention to your machine. The LED lights are great for you the operator but you also want to make sure others see you so you remain safe when using the machine.....
Thanks Sulleybear!

I am working on a 'safety strobe' solution based upon your comment here. It will really be seen only from the rear and sides because I am fabricating a mounting platform that will attach to the back two upper bolts of the back of the seat. It will utilize a magnetically mounted safety beacon which is 12 volt and will plug into my 12 volt adapter on the rare occasions when I will need it, such as snow blowing at the end of my drive, etc. Stay tuned.... I am putting together some photos of the project and will post them up when I am done. Hoping it comes out alright.
 
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