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A while back, I converted all the lights on my truck bed to LEDs. I've been postponing the addition of worklights, simply because I wanted to use LEDs and they were expensive. Most of the LED worklights I looked at were running about $100.00 apiece. A few months ago, I found a vendor on another forum that was offering LED worklights for about half that price, so I decided to risk it and bought two. While I put them on a truck, they would work just as well on any 12 volt system. The vendor states that they draw 1.06 amps apiece, and I ran them on a 16 gauge wire with a 10 amp fuse.

First, a photo of the lights after being installed. The installation was simple. The included brackets mount with a single 5/16" bolt, then a second bolt attaches the light assembly to the bracket. The lights are in a solid aluminum housing, and the wires are about a foot long, and both the hot and ground (insulated individually) are inside a larger rubber insulation.



This is the switch. I wanted the installation to look relatively factory, so I picked up this switch. It's labelled with a small worklight symbol, and has two lights in it. The lower light comes on with the dash lights, and the upper light comes on when the switch is in the on position.




So, how well do they work? A lot of LED lights simply lack 'throw'. They're super bright to look at, but provide very little useable area lighting. That is not the case with these. I apologize for the quality of the following photos, getting a good picture of what a light can put out is tough to do. Even in the picture where they are on, they are significantly brighter in person than they appear to be.

This is the area, with the lights turned off.



This picture was taken standing in the same spot, with the lights turned on. The building in the picture is 43' from where the lights are, and the illuminated area is about 40' wide.



I'm very happy with the lights. They have been installed for a couple of months now and seem to be holding up okay. I plan on adding one to the Gator, and probably putting a few more on some other equipment. While I bought them from a particular vendor, my experience with them was very mediocre. Not bad, but not especially great. I might purchase from them again, but they would probably not be the first place I looked.

I have found what look like the exact same lights available at Surplus Center. Same rated amp draw, and they look identical. I would bet Surplus Center buys them from the same place that the vendor I used does. The Surplus Center item number is 12-980. If you're looking for an LED worklight, check them out. :)
 

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Well, that turned out very good. You have to be pleased at this result. Thanks for the post.
 

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NICE:thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where did you get the interior light switch in this very nice set up
Thank You
I got the switch from a place called Over The River And Through The Woods. The website is www.ottrattw.com. Their focus is off road, 4x4 stuff. A lot of the switches are labelled for things like differential locks, air compressors, winch, etc. There are a fair number of ones that will 'work' in a broader application, especially for lights. They offer them in three or four different colors, I chose the green because it's the closest match to the factory dash lights. After looking at their website again just now I see they have greatly expanded their offerings. They now offer custom labelled switches, and in my opinion they look a lot nicer than what I put in my truck. Mine is good, but there's always something newer/ shinier/ faster out there. :lol: To be clear, I did not buy the lights there. I had an excellent experience with them, and would definitely buy from them again.

The switch is a Carling rocker switch, and it was kind of expensive for just a switch. In addition to the switch itself, I bought the housing that it snaps into and a special tool to disassemble it. You can probably get by without the housing, but using it makes it much easier to get a clean, factory look. The housings are available in a lot of configurations, from one switch to several. I did not buy the plug kit to use with the switch, I just plugged insulated female spade terminals onto the back of it. In hindsight, I kind of wish I had gotten the plug kit. If I add any more switches, I plan to redo this one with the plug. The spade terminals work great, and it's all out of sight behind the dash, but the plug would make it easier to handle the 6 or so wires that go into it.

Well, that turned out very good. You have to be pleased at this result. Thanks for the post.
I'm very happy with how it turned out. Most of the time when I drive the truck I'm hauling something, and since it's a flatbed it all has to be strapped down. That's a pain when it's dark and cold outside. After seeing the lights in person, I think one might have been enough for lighting up the truck and trailer, but I'm glad I put on two. When I'm out in the field or working on something away from the shop at night, the worklights do a much better job at lighting up the area than the headlights do. Backing up a trailer is easier too, because they're high enough and provide enough light that I can actually see the trailer. That's something the factory reverse lights were never any good for. I still have a set of incandescent reverse lights on the bed that are tied into the reverse switch, but I'm seriously considering taking them off. Turning on the worklights provides plenty of light to see with. I may find a smaller, clear LED to put on the reverse light circuit just so bystanders can tell that the truck is in reverse and not be in the way. Shouldn't be necessary, but y'all know how that goes. :laugh: Heck, I probably have some out in the shop. I have all sorts of vehicle lighting out there waiting for a project.
 
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