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Got a 1025R last month with the mulching kit pre-installed. I've mowed twice since I got it and unfortunately also clipped a survey marker the last time I was mowing.

After getting my deck dolly today I was finally able to take look. I fully expected to have chunk out of the leftmost blade, but I didn't expect to see just how dull all three blades were overall already. I have 15 hours on the tractor and less than half of that has been spent mowing.

This is the first tractor I've ever bought and needed to maintain -- is it normal to have this much wear on my blades after less than 10 hours of use? I admittedly don't have a well manicured yard and I've probably inadvertently mowed some small branches in addition to mulching fallen leaves.

In general I'm wondering what approach everyone else uses to keep sharp blades on their mower deck and how to even go about sharpening mulching blades. I'm also curious if anyone has used the Oregon G6 Gator blades with the mulching kit -- I've heard that they have hardened cutting edge and hold an edge better than the stock blades.
 

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The bottom photo looks like normal wear but still excessive for 10 hours. The top one looks like it hit a survey marker, lucky you didn’t bent a spindle. Is it very sandy? The blades are not to a knife edge when new and the paint makes them look sharper than they are so the bottom one might just be normal.

Perhaps the mulch kit doesn’t let things out so it keeps hitting the same rocks over and over.:dunno:
 

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The bottom photo looks like normal wear but still excessive for 10 hours. The top one looks like it hit a survey marker, lucky you didn’t bent a spindle. Is it very sandy? The blades are not to a knife edge when new and the paint makes them look sharper than they are so the bottom one might just be normal.

Perhaps the mulch kit doesn’t let things out so it keeps hitting the same rocks over and over.:dunno:



The edge on the new blades for my 62D are pretty sharp...
 

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Just this afternoon I removed the blades from my 60D mower. It has a mulching kit installed. I had removed and sharpened the blades about 2 weeks ago. I had rounded off the head of one of the blade bolts then, so I ordered new bolts and a set of new JD muclching blades. Today I swapped out the old blades for new blades and bolts.

These are the old blades - 2 weeks after sharpening, and used twice to mow a couple of acres of coastal bermuda grass horse pasture. I do mow at the highest (4 inch) setting. They have lost their really sharp edge. I can run my thumb over the outer cutting edges without being cut. They were sharp enough to cut a finger when I finished my sharpening (not bad, but enough to draw blood). So, to respond to your question, my blades dulled pretty quickly. I'll be sharpening more frequently in the future, but not every 2 weeks. Maybe monthly.

blades.jpg
 

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My mulching blades, Deere part number M168223, came with the mulching kit, which I installed myself.

Your blades are different. They lack the upsweep at the trailing edge, and it also appears that the blade's width near the center holes is different.

Are you sure the dealer didn't just install the mulching plates themselves, and left the original blades on the mower? The mulching kit is both the plates, plus different blades.
 

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My mulching blades, Deere part number M168223, came with the mulching kit, which I installed myself.

Your blades are different. They lack the upsweep at the trailing edge, and it also appears that the blade's width near the center holes is different.

Are you sure the dealer didn't just install the mulching plates themselves, and left the original blades on the mower? The mulching kit is both the plates, plus different blades.
I have what I was told are the stock blades.
 

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I also see a lot of nicking and wear from digesting sticks and occasionally hitting dirt.

The his best thing I have found is a 4 inch angle grinder with a "flapper wheel" installed, basically layered sandpaper.

I keep a spare set of blades sharp and after a swap I touch them up when I get time.
Factory edge specs actually instruct you to sharpen the primary angle on the blade and then create a tiny flat at the cutting edge, normally around 1/64 inch (.016).

This flat helps prevent edge bending and chipping that guys like me would encounter.
Many folks on this forum have gone to the lengths needed to have beautiful lawns of grass with no sticks or weeds and they could likely get away with creating razor sharp blade edges that would last just fine.
 

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Do they have a part number stamped into them? The stamping is pretty shallow, and the letters/numbers are 3/16" high, so might be obscured by dirt. Mine have the stamping on the top of the blade, so unless its off the mower, the number won't be visible.

Sharpening - I use a Baldor bench grinder with a 6" medium grinding wheel.

The G6 blades you asked about - I have not used them. A selling point in the ads is that they create less suction than the Deere mulching blades, so they won't pick up small rocks and sticks. Deere of course couners that by saying that their own blades are precisely engineered for the best performance of their mowing decks.
 

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This is exactly why I've stopped wasting money on OEM JD blades and transitioned to Gator G6 blades
 

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This is exactly why I've stopped wasting money on OEM JD blades and transitioned to Gator G6 blades
Gator G5/G6 blades will not work properly with a mulching kit installed. They are high lift blades designed to blow grass out a side discharge.
 

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My local hardware store carries Oregon brand blades. My 54" blades run me $33.00 for a set of 3 and last me one season, with sharpening them after every 3rd cut with the layered sandpaper wheel (tiger-paw).
My land is fairly sandy beneath the grass, and they need sharpening like I stated due to the sand.
I generally need to mow twice a week, to suit me.
 

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I bought 5 acres with 2 of it being pasture sewed in a mix with clover which is rough on any mower, but I was surprised at how poorly the John Deere deck cleaned out and the blades needed a complete resharpen after two cuts, I ended up hearing a noise that concerned me and I found a well greased drive shaft to the deck with one broken bearing journal, tractor having only 70 hours on it and I had to rebuild the mmm shaft. I parked the tractor and bought a commercial zero turn and after 20 hours I have yet to sharpen the blades. Frankly after comparing the mmm deck drive to the older style which is much heavier duty I’m surprised more people haven’t had them fly apart, and I didn’t take it in for warranty because I couldn’t have the down time of that process , so personally I wouldn’t run a mulching kit after seeing what normal mowing did to the blades and drive


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I have a lot success with mulch kits, both on my old 54d and now my 60d. I have tried Gator G6 blades but noticed much more build up under the deck when using with the mulch kit, YMMV.
In the second pic it looks like they never installed the mulch kit blades, they are different and have a purpose and should be used with the mulch kit. I actually prefer my OEM mulch kit blades over the Gator blades when being used with the mulch kit.

My .02
 

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Gator G5/G6 blades will not work properly with a mulching kit installed. They are high lift blades designed to blow grass out a side discharge.
This is wrong, I have used G6 blades with my mulch kit on my 60d.
 

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This is wrong, I have used G6 blades with my mulch kit on my 60d.
No, it is not wrong. It is 100% correct information. Just because you can or have, does not mean it is correct. That fact that you (and plenty of other people) use non-mulching kit blades such as the G5/G6 blades on a mulching kit mower does not make them the proper tool for the job and does not mean they worked properly. Yes, the blades will fit, just like any other blade for a 60D will fit. They will spin. They will cut the grass. But they will not work properly, in the same manner that an actual non high lift mulching blade does. Just like if you low-lift mulching kit blades on a mower without a mulching kit, it would not discharge properly either. The G5 and G6 blades are designed for side discharging, which they do a fabulous job at. I have them on my 425 and love them.

I have banged on a flathead screwdriver with a hammer in place of a chisel too, that doesn't mean a flathead screwdriver was the right tool, or that it did the job properly.

Oregon used to make blades with teeth designed to work properly in a mulching kit. I think they were G3 blades. But they do not make them anymore.
 

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No, it is not wrong. It is 100% correct information. Just because you can or have, does not mean it is correct. That fact that you (and plenty of other people) use non-mulching kit blades such as the G5/G6 blades on a mulching kit mower does not make them the proper tool for the job and does not mean they worked properly. Yes, the blades will fit, just like any other blade for a 60D will fit. They will spin. They will cut the grass. But they will not work properly, in the same manner that an actual non high lift mulching blade does. Just like if you low-lift mulching kit blades on a mower without a mulching kit, it would not discharge properly either. The G5 and G6 blades are designed for side discharging, which they do a fabulous job at. I have them on my 425 and love them.
From my experience they worked great, actually a little too good, the clippings were so fine that I started noticing more build up under the deck, that's why I took them off and put the OEM mulch kit blades back on. But they work perfectly fine with a mulch kit, no mention on their site about not using them on a mulch kit mower deck.
 

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You're noticing buildup under the deck because they are not working properly for the job at hand. The grass is being plastered to the top of the deck due to the high lift design of the blades. Not because it's doing "too good of a job".

You have illustrated my point perfectly :good2:
 

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You're noticing buildup under the deck because they are not working properly for the job at hand. The grass is being plastered to the top of the deck due to the high lift design of the blades. Not because it's doing "too good of a job".

You have illustrated my point perfectly :good2:
Whatever Mr. Smarty Pants :banghead: :lol: it still sounds better when I here myself say "they did too good of a job"

:lolol:
 
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