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as my 50hr service approaches (12hrs to go).. I've been meaning to ask.. Where are the best lift points on these machines?.. Just throw my jack under the center of the rear end?.. Where is it best to lift the front from?.. Not that it really matters but I'm curious.. How evenly balanced is the 1 series?.. Is one side significantly heavier than the other?.. I'd like to get the whole machine off the ground and onto jack stands when I do it.. Figured I'd take all 4 wheels off and get in for a deep clean etc..
 

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Whoa there! Remember, that front end is on a pivot, not like a car suspension that has springs, shocks (or struts), and bump stops to keep from tilting over too far. You could have a quick mess on your hands jacking the rear in the center.

IMHO, you're most likely best to jack the front first to get it off of the ground, then the rear, always using jack stands to hold everything up of course.
 

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Whoa there! Remember, that front end is on a pivot, not like a car suspension that has springs, shocks (or struts), and bump stops to keep from tilting over too far. You could have a quick mess on your hands jacking the rear in the center.

IMHO, you're most likely best to jack the front first to get it off of the ground, then the rear, always using jack stands to hold everything up of course.

I don't know Tonton...I think it would just be higher up when it pivoted over ,if you put the front on jackstands first. You still have that pivoting front end to deal with.

If the FEL is on, I'd pick the front end up off the ground and then do the rear. I usually lift the rear in the middle, slowly, and see if it stays semi level going up. If alls good , then I put jack stands under it and let it down. If it aint doing right, I'll do one side at a time on the rear. If the fel is off ,then I pick it up at the pivot center and fight the dang axle putting my stands under them.:laugh: ...or just let the front axle dangle.
 

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I put a jack on the draw bar under the axle, lifted the tractor, removed the wheels and put stands under the axle. It wasn't hard and the tractor didn't flop side to side.
 

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I raised my 3005 by the drawbar enough to get both rear tires up when I filled with rimguard. I could rock the tractor back and forth by hand until I filled the first tire ofcourse.

Sitting the front axle on stands will just make it higher, and just as tippy. I use the loader for the front.

Jim
 

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I've done the same as psrumors and it works well.

I haven't lifted the front yet, but thinking that a bottle Jack in the front under the front frame rails with a bridge may work nicely and you don't have to deal with any pivot if the rear is up completely?


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I would rather work under the tractor with ,4 wheels on it. If you have all 4 off and it falls your gone.
 

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I drove the rear up onto ramps, then lifted the front using the FEL with the bucket tilted down and placed stands under the front axle.

I then lifted the rears off the ramps slightly with my 12-ton floor jack just enough to get the stands under the rear axle.

It helps if you can use the smaller sized stands as they will interfere with your drain bucket placement if they are too large.
 

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I usually drive the front up on ramps, if i don't have the fel on tractor,. After driving the front up on ramps then block the front wheels so tractor won't move. I then lift the back up with a car type hyd floor jack and then put jacks stands or ramps.
I've make drive up ramps from 4 used 2x8 starting with about a 18" long down to a 9-10" on top
 

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I've got a heavy duty set of 12,000# capacity truck ramps that I use with both my 3320 and 2320. I place the ramps ahead of the rear wheels and drive up onto them. The approach ramps are then toward the rear and out of the way. I then use a floor jack to lift the front end up and place jack stands under the axle for safety.

I would not drive the front end up onto stands and then jack the rear. This raises the center of gravity and could make things tricky when jacking the rear end up below the final drive housing or drawbar.
 

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I've got a heavy duty set of 12,000# capacity truck ramps that I use with both my 3320 and 2320. I place the ramps ahead of the rear wheels and drive up onto them. The approach ramps are then toward the rear and out of the way. I then use a floor jack to lift the front end up and place jack stands under the axle for safety.

I would not drive the front end up onto stands and then jack the rear. This raises the center of gravity and could make things tricky when jacking the rear end up below the final drive housing or drawbar.
I STAND CORRECTED.. Before I made the 2 extra ramps I would drive up on the rear and then jack the front. One time I drove the front up on ramps and then jacked the back , had all kind of troubles. Came close to loosing the tractor off the jack .

Sorry for the wrong and unsafe advice. Been using the ramps to many years.

Since then I made 2 ramps I place them so I can drive up on all 4 at the same time.
 

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I just thought of a trick to minimize the pivoting front end. If you have a brush guard, then run straps to it from each wheel. This should hold it level if the straps are tight....

I'm a fart smeller (smart feller) :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for the tips fella's!.. I think I'll try the back up on to ramps then lift the front method.. I like that, cause the rear end will only be on the jack for a few moments while you get it up a little higher than the ramps to slide stands under the rear axles.. Here's another question though.. Do you think a floor jack with a piece of 6x6 lumber (or 4x4 if 6x6 is to big to fit) running between the two mower deck brace supports up front is strong enough to not break?.. The braces themselves look pretty beefy.. Do you think they'd bend?.. Just thought if I lifted that way, I could take the front axle out of the equation all together (no tipping) then put two jack stands on either side of the frame or under the axle..
 

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thanks for the tips fella's!.. I think I'll try the back up on to ramps then lift the front method.. I like that, cause the rear end will only be on the jack for a few moments while you get it up a little higher than the ramps to slide stands under the rear axles.. Here's another question though.. Do you think a floor jack with a piece of 6x6 lumber (or 4x4 if 6x6 is to big to fit) running between the two mower deck brace supports up front is strong enough to not break?.. The braces themselves look pretty beefy.. Do you think they'd bend?.. Just thought if I lifted that way, I could take the front axle out of the equation all together (no tipping) then put two jack stands on either side of the frame or under the axle..
Once I had my front end off the ground with the loader, I simply slipped the jack stands under the front axle. The concern of the front pivoting is because of the ability of the wheels to turn freely causing the tractor to flop over the turned wheel. With the stands under the axle itself (inboard of knuckle) this can't happen. I also keep the bucket edge right close to the ground while I'm working on the tractor for extra stability.
 

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trouble on smooth concrete

I have had a problem with jack stands/ramps in my shed which has a smooth concrete floor. Since that time I've done all my lifting on the gravel approach to the shop. Just be careful and stay out from under the tractor until everything is stable.
 

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Once I had my front end off the ground with the loader, I simply slipped the jack stands under the front axle. The concern of the front pivoting is because of the ability of the wheels to turn freely causing the tractor to flop over the turned wheel. With the stands under the axle itself (inboard of knuckle) this can't happen. I also keep the bucket edge right close to the ground while I'm working on the tractor for extra stability.
I can't follow how the axle sitting on jack stands would be any different than the wheels on the ground. I would think it would still flip over if the back end was jacked up and tilted to one side. Or at least to where either the pivot stop or the rear wheel hit the ground. Which ever come first. Not to be in any way facetious... Help me to understand why ? Thanks


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I can't follow how the axle sitting on jack stands would be any different than the wheels on the ground. I would think it would still flip over if the back end was jacked up and tilted to one side. Or at least to where either the pivot stop or the rear wheel hit the ground. Which ever come first. Not to be in any way facetious... Help me to understand why ? Thanks


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The front end is less stable than the rear because the front axle can steer (pivot left/right) If the front tires are on the ground and you're jacking, a shifting of weight could turn the front tires causing a loss of stability.

If you're going downhill with the tires on the ground and turn sharply, the tractor could pivot OVER the front tire on the outside of the turn.

When it was on all 4 jackstands it was rock solid.

With the axles on stands, the front axle turning L/R has no effect on stability, and the 53" wide bucket flat to the ground DEFINITELY provides a wide/stable platform.
 

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I believe you may be missing the center pivoting axle ... Where the axle moves up and down . Basically making your tractor act like a tricycle. Go across a ditch catty corner and you can see the axle rise and fall relative to the rear tires. Keeping the bucket on or just above the ground is definitely the way to go. There are times though when I need to get closer in to the machine so I have to take the FEL off
 

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I believe you may be missing the center pivoting axle ... Where the axle moves up and down
This is often referred to as "front axle oscillation." The front axle oscillates to a point (hard stop) in order to follow the irregularity of the terrain unlike the rear axle that is fixed. This reduces torsional stresses on the tractor as well as side to side rocking motion and assists keeping all four wheels on the ground on uneven terrain. These are all good things! That being said if you jack the tractor from a center point under the rear of the tractor it could rotate left or right due to imbalance. If jacking a tractor from the rear do it in small increments and use blocking or stands under the outboard ends of the axles to prevent left or right rotation Especially if you're going to be removing a tire & wheel assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is often referred to as "front axle oscillation." The front axle oscillates to a point (hard stop) in order to follow the irregularity of the terrain unlike the rear axle that is fixed. This reduces torsional stresses on the tractor as well as side to side rocking motion and assists keeping all four wheels on the ground on uneven terrain. These are all good things! That being said if you jack the tractor from a center point under the rear of the tractor it could rotate left or right due to imbalance. If jacking a tractor from the rear do it in small increments and use blocking or stands under the outboard ends of the axles to prevent left or right rotation Especially if you're going to be removing a tire & wheel assembly.
So what I'm getting from all of the comments about the way the front axle works is that it if you're going to put the machine in the air more than just and inch or so to remove a wheel.. You might be better off getting the front up 1st and stands under each side of the frame at the front to take the axle out of the process.. Then raise the rear end.. That said.. That's why I wonder if I can get a piece of 4x4 or 6x6 spanned between the braces at the front for the deck and lift the front from there.. Then the front axle movement wouldn't matter.. That's how I used to lift my 318 but of course it was much lighter than a 1 series..
 
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