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I finished off a change and addition that I had been looking to make for awhile now. I added two aux light switches (JD part #AM117324) to the dash area. One occupies the blank for the independent mower lift solenoid switch and the other a cut-out I made below it.
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The top switch controls a dedicated circuit that I ran along the factory wiring harness to the rear of the tractor. This circuit controls the two factory ROPS lights which, despite adding the blinders from Artillian, still can be an annoyance if they aren't needed. Thus the ROPS lights do not come on with the factory light switch anymore; they only come on by pressing the top switch. Pretty straightforward.

The bottom switch is after a relay I added. The relay gets its 12V signal from the reverse switch. When the reverse pedal is pressed, the relay closes and provides power to the bottom switch. The circuit then runs to the rear of the tractor and powers a single rear-facing light I added (John Deere Light Kit LVB25547). The light kit is meant to be used as an alternative to the ROPS lights with the factory wiring harness but it now has its own circuit. Purchasing the light wasn't the cheapest way to go but I got a nice factory light that wasn't an aftermarket LED light (I hate the look of LED).

So, when the bottom switch is on, the reverse light only comes on when the reverse hydro pedal is pressed. When off, the reverse light doesn't ever come on. Here are the rest of the photos, including the reverse light bracket I made and the fuse box. I bought some Ford-style mini fuse terminals and ground them into the correct shape. They fit into the blanks on the fuse box.

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I like the fact that your reverse light comes on automaticly. I had thought about doing this the same way then when I was laying it out on paper and testing the circut with my tester i realized that switch is how i have my RIO deactivated. so Ill wait till i have the mower on and try another way to disable the RIO then do the rear light
 
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Well done!
 
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So, when the bottom switch is on, the reverse light only comes on when the reverse hydro pedal is pressed. When off, the reverse light doesn't ever come on. Here are the rest of the photos, including the reverse light bracket I made and the fuse box. I bought some Ford-style mini fuse terminals and ground them into the correct shape. They fit into the blanks on the fuse box.
For me the whole reason for having a rear light was so I could see what I was doing back there when I was off the tractor. Working in the dark at the back of the tractor was a pain with no light.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I like the fact that your reverse light comes on automaticly. I had thought about doing this the same way then when I was laying it out on paper and testing the circut with my tester i realized that switch is how i have my RIO deactivated. so Ill wait till i have the mower on and try another way to disable the RIO then do the rear light
I'm a fan of the RIO disable at the PTO switch. Easier to get to, for me.

For me the whole reason for having a rear light was so I could see what I was doing back there when I was off the tractor. Working in the dark at the back of the tractor was a pain with no light.
I hear you. Chalk it up to different requirements. I don't work off the tractor in the dark but but do a lot of mowing when the sun starts dropping. The mowing I do requires reversing from nooks. If we ever do get any snow this year, illumination of the path with reversing with the snowblower will be needed too.
 

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The bottom switch is after a relay I added. The relay gets its 12V signal from the reverse switch. When the reverse pedal is pressed, the relay closes and provides power to the bottom switch. The circuit then runs to the rear of the tractor and powers a single rear-facing light I added (John Deere Light Kit LVB25547).
I've been researching a similar project for my tractor and I also want the reverse pedal to turn on the back-up light. I did not see any mention in your write-up of a TVS diode across the relay coil in your circuit. When the voltage is removed from a coil, the collapsing field generates voltage spikes that can arc across the switch's contacts and, over time, degrade those contacts. The Transient Voltage Suppression diode clamps these spikes and therefore protects the switch contacts.

eepete has an excellent discussion on the TVS diodes in the GTT Technical Library: Relay Coil Free-Wheeling Diodes


The TVS diode I ordered for my project is available on Amazon. LINK HERE
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've been researching a similar project for my tractor and I also want the reverse pedal to turn on the back-up light. I did not see any mention in your write-up of a TVS diode across the relay coil in your circuit. When the voltage is removed from a coil, the collapsing field generates voltage spikes that can arc across the switch's contacts and, over time, degrade those contacts. The Transient Voltage Suppression diode clamps these spikes and therefore protects the switch contacts.

eepete has an excellent discussion on the TVS diodes in the GTT Technical Library: Relay Coil Free-Wheeling Diodes


The TVS diode I ordered for my project is available on Amazon. LINK HERE
Cool and thanks, I enjoyed eepete's posts. No, I did not consider this. Do the factory relays (fuel solenoid, starter, glow plug) have TVS diodes? I don't believe so but I haven't looked to verify. I understand the argument that the reverse relay activation frequency will outpace those of the factory relays. If I start eating up relays I will know where to turn next.
 

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Some relays have diodes built into them so no external one is needed.
 

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Was the bracket part of the rear lighting kit or is that a separate purchase?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Some relays have diodes built into them so no external one is needed.
Ah, that makes sense. You got me curious so I looked up the part# of the factory relays (you can see it in my photos, VF4A-15F11-C05). It appears no diode is used, this per the TN website:

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Was the bracket part of the rear lighting kit or is that a separate purchase?
Homemade
 
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