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Just wanted mention how I did the lights on my tractor, and other powered items.

I first created a new 12 volt-30 amp circuit by using a 30 amp circuit breaker, a 30 amp relay, and 10 gauge wire. The relay is "triggered" from a fuse in the fuse box that's powered only when the key is ON so no accessory can be left on to kill the battery.

The lights are 50 watt Hobbs units with trapezoidal pattern-a great compromise between spot and flood patterns. The xenon strobe is a "extra" one from work. The 4 switches are rated at 20 amp each, the two front lights are on one switch, the two rear on another, the strobe on the third and finally the rear 12V power outlet on the fourth. These are water resistant switches from a marine supply store.

Later I added the joystick handle to control the solenoid diverter valve for my grapple, and also a horn. These required the addition of two more relays since the switches in the handle cannot handle any real current.


I am a firm believer in not adding anything extra to the factory wiring harness-due to cost, they are only sized for exactly what the OEM supplies and no more, that is why I feel it's important to add a new circuit for any upgrades.

These pictures are not the greatest I am sorry to say-but here they are:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
More pictures:
 

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Nice!

Agree on "don't tax the harness". :thumbup1gif:

Pete
 

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KennyD - Thanks for posting the pictures - one question - what is the concern for the harness? I am not disagreeing just wondering - I added two 50 watt lights to my ROPS. Now I am worried.

They are just generic TSC lights. I purchased a "y" from JD which connected to an auxilliary connection on the rear of my tractor. I then wired the two lights into the "y". Sort of don't think I needed the "y" as there appears to be another AUX back there as the technical manual appears to indicate that I have two sets of trailer light connectors?

I tried following the technical manual (way over my head) and actually bought a wiring kit with fuse etc, but in the end just used the existing wiring harness what was as I couldn't figure out how to wire it outside of the existing harness and got worried that I would only make something that works, not (I have a history of this).

I use the lights for snow removal - one facing forward and one rearward - worked great this morning at 4:30 in the morning but plan on removing them in the summer as they will probably not stand up in the woods.

- Dana
 

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KennyD - Thanks for posting the pictures - one question - what is the concern for the harness? I am not disagreeing just wondering - I added two 50 watt lights to my ROPS. Now I am worried.

They are just generic TSC lights. I purchased a "y" from JD which connected to an auxilliary connection on the rear of my tractor. I then wired the two lights into the "y". Sort of don't think I needed the "y" as there appears to be another AUX back there as the technical manual appears to indicate that I have two sets of trailer light connectors?

I tried following the technical manual (way over my head) and actually bought a wiring kit with fuse etc, but in the end just used the existing wiring harness what was as I couldn't figure out how to wire it outside of the existing harness and got worried that I would only make something that works, not (I have a history of this).

I use the lights for snow removal - one facing forward and one rearward - worked great this morning at 4:30 in the morning but plan on removing them in the summer as they will probably not stand up in the woods.

- Dana
You should be fine Dana because JD offers the two lights and provides the wires for them, however they are not controlled seperatly which is a nice feature of doing it "my" way. On my tractor, the wire they provided was only rated for one light and it was only active when the headlights are on, and having the plow or loader mounted makes the headlights all but useless anyway so why have them on taxing the alternator was/is my thought.

The wiring and switched used are just not rated for much additional load. You can search about all the Ford truck fires that happened years ago from the headlight switch overheating from extra lights added-scary stuff!
 

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Excellent information Kenny. Thanks for the detail.:good2:
 
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