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I'm thinking about adding liquid ballast to my rear tires for better traction when snow blowing. I'm worried this may make the tractor too heavy for mowing. Anyone here mow reguarly with loaded tires? How much weight does ballasting the tires on a2720 add?

Thanks
 

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If I do this I'll probably do it myself. How much fluid is required?
 

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This chart is from rimguardsolutions.com. Hope it posts.
 

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How much weight does ballasting the tires on a 2720 add?
I had my 2720 rear tires filled with washer fluid and it added ~180 lbs. per tire. (22 gallons per tire)

I don't mow with my tractor but the ground doesn't have to be very soft before you can clearly see tire tracks.
 

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i personally prefer removable weight / ballast to loaded tires. I have a ballast box on my 1025 for snowblowing and it's very convenient, takes 5 minutes to put on or off.
 

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This chart is from rimguardsolutions.com. Hope it posts.
Thanks I was wondering how much ballast I added to my 4044M filling all 4 tires. Rear 13.6 x 28 610 lbs each tire total 1220 lbs. Front tires 8x16 125 lbs each 250 total all ballast adds up to 1470 lbs of extra weight. I need this for moving hay and plowing snow good. I also run a full set of heavy duty chains in the winter. There about to come off next month. I never notice any real damage the tires did to the pasture driving around. If it is soft the cleats pattern will show no problem cause the extra ballast, tractor weight and loader makes the tractor with out a load pushing 6,000 lbs. I could never plow our hills with out chains when there is ice under the snow. Been plowing snow here for 22 years and always used chains and loaded tires to get around good. The 4x4 is new to me and I love it!! Nice part of adding fluid for ballast is that the extra weight is on the ground not bolted to the tractor or being held up with the 3 point. It is what I believe called un/sprung weight being inside the tires only. That way there is not a extra strain on tractor parts. I use a rear blade most of the time and leave it on the tractor. I bet it weighs another 800 lbs for ballast till it is on the ground but helps when using the loader having 2000+ pound of ballast on the rear.
 

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I'm thinking about adding liquid ballast to my rear tires for better traction when snow blowing. I'm worried this may make the tractor too heavy for mowing. Anyone here mow reguarly with loaded tires? How much weight does ballasting the tires on a2720 add?

Thanks
I’ve had the rear tires loaded on my 2520 since the day I bought it. And yes, I mow with it. Don’t see any issues myself.
 

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I’ve got the tires filled on my 1026r. I also have 2 sets of steel weights. I had intended to take the steel weights off for mowing. But I haven’t done so as I haven’t noticed any damage to my lawn.
 

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I'm thinking about adding liquid ballast to my rear tires for better traction when snow blowing. I'm worried this may make the tractor too heavy for mowing. Anyone here mow reguarly with loaded tires? How much weight does ballasting the tires on a2720 add?

Thanks
I mow about four acres with my 3039R with rear ballast in the tires. It does leave a foot print after it rains. According to the chart "sbhooper" posted, each one of my tires weighs 310 pounds filled with Rim Guard. Since I have the H165 loader I wanted to make sure I have enough ballast.
 

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If you do a lot of loader work and use of your 3 pt hitch then yes add the liquid to the tires.If not then I would look into the removable weight.My x595 I have the Heavy Hitch with the weight that I can take on and off as needed.I only need it for loader work.The rest of the time I just have wheel weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a ballast box for loader work but it can't be added with an implement(such as a snowblower) on the 3 pt hitch. Thus the question on tire ballast.
 

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I have a ballast box for loader work but it can't be added with an implement(such as a snowblower) on the 3 pt hitch. Thus the question on tire ballast.
Do you have the option to use chains?

If you went with iron weights on the rear wheels you could remove them over the summer. It's a bit of a pain but at least you could off load the weight for mowing.

When you run into a traction issue I assume you are in 4WD? Have you ever raising up the 3PH ever so slightly? Just enough to let the 3PH arms feel the weight of the snow blower. That should transfer a lot of weight to the rear tires and of course remove some weight from the front tires.

Do you keep your loader attached while blowing snow with the rear blower? Do you have any traction issues with the front tires? If so you could always put some ballast in the bucket.
 

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It looks like you have a Z915B why not mow with that?

I fluid filled my tires on my X585. Shortly after I bought my Z950R and the X585 was retired from mowing.

Will you see ruts. It kind of depends on soil composition and how wet things are. I saw it a little with my yard but another thing is the ride was a lot more rough. I could take a bit of fluid out and add some more air in but I mainly only use it for FEL work in the spring/summer/fall and snow work in the winter. I forget how much fluid I used by my tires are a lot smaller so it doesn't really matter. It was around this time of year that I started watching for a place to start a clearance on their winter grade washer fluid. I think I bought 3 cases of 6 gallons each. Then I think I had to go back for more. When I filled mine I removed the wheel, broke the bead and then poured it in between the rim and tire. Once done I just inflated it to pop the bead back on and put it back on the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you have the option to use chains?

If you went with iron weights on the rear wheels you could remove them over the summer. It's a bit of a pain but at least you could off load the weight for mowing.

When you run into a traction issue I assume you are in 4WD? Have you ever raising up the 3PH ever so slightly? Just enough to let the 3PH arms feel the weight of the snow blower. That should transfer a lot of weight to the rear tires and of course remove some weight from the front tires.

Do you keep your loader attached while blowing snow with the rear blower? Do you have any traction issues with the front tires? If so you could always put some ballast in the bucket.
Already using chains. 80% of the time its fine but when trying to blow back the drifts along the side of the road I'm only hitting the drift with one side of the blower and it tends to want to try and suck the tractor into the ditch. I don't have any problems getting stuck, the blower weighs enough that with it in the air I get tons of traction. If I run with partiial weight of the blower on the tractor then it leaves snow behind which the tractor rides on top of causing the blower to be higher, resulting in a "snow ramp" that the unit rides up on top of till it breaks thru and spins out. The wind and sun have packed some of these drifts in pretty good.

Loader is on with a bucket of snow and 3 suitcase weights on the front. The issue is the back end pushing out sideways when trying to go into a drift with just one side of the blower. I had a similar problem when trying to plow snow with a rear 72" plow. In heavy snow with the blade angled it would cause the back of the tractor to scoot out sideways.

I've got the HP to do what I want but not enough tractor weight/traction. Maybe I need a 2038R or a 3 series. :laugh:
 

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It looks like you have a Z915B why not mow with that?

I fluid filled my tires on my X585. Shortly after I bought my Z950R and the X585 was retired from mowing.

Will you see ruts. It kind of depends on soil composition and how wet things are. I saw it a little with my yard but another thing is the ride was a lot more rough. I could take a bit of fluid out and add some more air in but I mainly only use it for FEL work in the spring/summer/fall and snow work in the winter. I forget how much fluid I used by my tires are a lot smaller so it doesn't really matter. It was around this time of year that I started watching for a place to start a clearance on their winter grade washer fluid. I think I bought 3 cases of 6 gallons each. Then I think I had to go back for more. When I filled mine I removed the wheel, broke the bead and then poured it in between the rim and tire. Once done I just inflated it to pop the bead back on and put it back on the tractor.
I use the Z915B for around the house and trees and then the 2720 with the 84" RFM for the rest including the long stretches along my driveway and the septic field. I'm mostly worried about the septic field.

Hmm, the rough ride was not something I had considered. I have a grass cutting contract on the side mowing industrial sites around radio towers, fields 2-6acres in size. No issue with compaction at those sites but they are already pretty rough due to gopher mounds.

I'm starting to think that for the effort and cost its not going to be worth it for the 20% of the time it would help.

For those that have done it did you see a big increase in traction?
 

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Already using chains. 80% of the time its fine but when trying to blow back the drifts along the side of the road I'm only hitting the drift with one side of the blower and it tends to want to try and suck the tractor into the ditch. I don't have any problems getting stuck, the blower weighs enough that with it in the air I get tons of traction. If I run with partiial weight of the blower on the tractor then it leaves snow behind which the tractor rides on top of causing the blower to be higher, resulting in a "snow ramp" that the unit rides up on top of till it breaks thru and spins out. The wind and sun have packed some of these drifts in pretty good.

Loader is on with a bucket of snow and 3 suitcase weights on the front. The issue is the back end pushing out sideways when trying to go into a drift with just one side of the blower. I had a similar problem when trying to plow snow with a rear 72" plow. In heavy snow with the blade angled it would cause the back of the tractor to scoot out sideways.

I've got the HP to do what I want but not enough tractor weight/traction. Maybe I need a 2038R or a 3 series. :laugh:
Well... it certainly sounds like you are a candidate for wheel weights or fluid filled tires. Given your concerns about mowing I'm betting wheel weights would be your best bet - although a more expensive solution compared to liquid.

Are you plowing/blowing gravel roads or paved roads? If gravel, you might also consider switching to V-bar chains if you aren't using them already. I had them on my previous tractor and they really glued the tires to the ground (when running on snow packed gravel).

V-bar_chains.jpg
 
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