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My 2022 1025r loader with 50 hours isn't completely level. When I first noticed it yesterday, it was 3/4" out of level (left side lower). After doing some searching, I found an older thread where folks had some suggestions to try. Rear tire pressures were both exactly 20 psi when I started. Tires appear to be the same diameter, as closely as I could measure anyway. And the upper part of the loader arms are level, as well as everything further back. But the quick attach brackets without the bucket were not level (3/4" difference). So it appears that something isn't quite right with the lower part of the boom, but appears to be a fairly common thing from what I've read.

I put a piece of wood under the low side of the bucket and lowered it down all the way then loosened all 18 of the loader mounting bolts and then tightened them back up. Now the loader is only 1/2" out of level (still left side lower). I then lowered the opposite side rear tire to 18.5 psi to see if it would level it out and it made no difference at all. I think the rear tire pressures have to be WAY off to make a significant difference.

Am I being too picky? And before you even respond with solutions, please make sure that your loader is level. Because if this is just the way it is, I'll stop worrying about it.




 

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Check the Born on date of tires.
Get on a good known flat floor......framing squre....measure to top of tire.
or

Block up rear axle with "known" same jackstands or blocks.

There have been tire issues.

Your "intended fix got you part way...Maybe more down pressure.

Un hook that bucket and be sure the mounting points are symetrical...it could all be in bucket mounts.

Tape measure don't lie.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the Born on date of tires.
Get on a good known flat floor......framing squre....measure to top of tire.
or

Block up rear axle with "known" same jackstands or blocks.

There have been tire issues.

Your "intended fix got you part way...Maybe more down pressure.

Un hook that bucket and be sure the mounting points are symetrical...it could all be in bucket mounts.

Tape measure don't lie.....
Forgot to add that I jacked up the rear of tractor and made sure the ROPS were level and the loader was still 1/2” out of level. So it can’t be a tire issue.

Also measured pins where the quick attach pins are with the bucket off, so bucket isn’t a factor.
 

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From reading your post you never mentioned the front tires…….
 
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I know about the pivot making it irrelevant but mentioning it just incase. Ya never know.
Heck the bolt hole locations on both sides of your frame mounts. I had a tractor ready to be delivered and they sent it back to Deere because the holes were drilled 1/2” higher on one side than the other
 

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Forgot to add that I jacked up the rear of tractor and made sure the ROPS were level and the loader was still 1/2” out of level. So it can’t be a tire issue.

Also measured pins where the quick attach pins are with the bucket off, so bucket isn’t a factor.

I get it

but

Rops has zero bearing on anything ..its built to +- tolerance.

You need Rear axle level......everything is in relation to Rear axle.

Those odd pins may get you there...What holds them in a certain "clocking".
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I get it

but

Rops has zero bearing on anything ..its built to +- tolerance.

You need Rear axle level......everything is in relation to Rear axle.

Those odd pins may get you there...What holds them in a certain "clocking".
Ok. Let me fully elaborate what I did so we can get off the tires. Lol.

There is now a 1/2” difference, whether rear tires are in the air or not. I put the level on the “drawbar” area, ROPS, armrests, top part of loader arms. All are level with rear tires in the air or on the ground. I’m jacking the tractor up by the the center of the “drawbar” area. In my mind, that eliminates the rear tires as the problem.

In the few threads I’ve seen on this issue, everyone suggests it’s a tire pressure or tire height issue. And other than one person having a tire manufactured out of spec, that is never the issue. Even if I were to level the rear end with identical jack stands, I have a feeling that you’d then blame the tolerance to which the jack stands are made. Lol. It ain’t the tires.

My main reason for starting this thread was to see if this was a very common thing with these tractors or not. I’m assuming everyone throwing out suggestions has a perfectly level loader, or dang close? Because if not, then I can live with it being a little out of level if that’s how they all are.
 

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One last thing to rule out the tires is to switch the front tires and see if the offset moves to the other side. If the same take the loader off and remount it to see if something didn't line up right. This way with the loader off you can get a good look at the mounts on the tractor.
 

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you will notice the pins in the joints are not concentric... ie they have an offset.

you can spin them around when the loader is not under load

View attachment 839989
The eccentric part KEEPS them from turning, right? If you're suggesting that if you could turn them you could "fine-tune" the level of the loader, that is incorrect. Only the lobe on the end is off center to keep them from turning.
 

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The eccentric part KEEPS them from turning, right? If you're suggesting that if you could turn them you could "fine-tune" the level of the loader, that is incorrect. Only the lobe on the end is off center to keep them from turning.
True that
 

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The eccentric part KEEPS them from turning, right? If you're suggesting that if you could turn them you could "fine-tune" the level of the loader, that is incorrect. Only the lobe on the end is off center to keep them from turning.
Kenny you beat me to it.
Make sure you don't have any broken pins in the quick attach frame. Not likely, but easy to check.
 

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@phatboy5015 yup my loader is about 1/4 inch higher on one side too. Checked rear tires, checked straightness, all that. It's just the way it is. While I'm sure my dealer would have done their best to make it right if I had complained, I read on here that one or two people did go to their dealer about this and upon measuring the other tractors on the lot they found they were ALL that way.

That, and it really doesn't affect normal use of the loader. If one needs to grade within fractions of an inch, the loader is not the tool for that anyway.
 

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Another non problem which now that it is posted on the internet will become ALL JD loaders are defective from the factory.....................................
Not knocking anyone but within an inch on dirt, really?
And if you want to check the rear tires properly you need to jack up the tractor and measure the circumference of each and compare that number to find the difference in diameter. My guess is a couple of inch difference easy.
 

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Oh those bias ply R4’s are a doozy alright. My 1025R bucket was a half inch or so outta wack. When I first got it I got a little paranoid I bent it or something but came to live with it. The new one I made a point to the salesman I’d like a level loader. He a tally sent one back because the shop could not get it level.

let’s not fall into the “new norm” of letting shotty work pass as suitable when we pay for a premium brand.This is getting out of hand in all walks of life. I broke my flipping arm last week and had todo a wild goose chase for x rays because 2 supposed medical proffesional facilities couldn’t figure it out their computer systems. I’ll bet they figured out how to send the bill though.
 

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The eccentric part KEEPS them from turning, right? This way you can tighten the nut properly. If you're suggesting that if you could turn them you could "fine-tune" the level of the loader, that is incorrect. Only the lobe on the end is off center to keep them from turning.
Quoting myself here to add what's in RED
 
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