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1025r with Mauser cab.
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In his last posted photo, You can see the bucket out of level when looking at the top of the bucket compared to the grill guard cross bar, which visually aligns with the other tractor components (grille guard to hood, each side of the tractor, etc). I view that as more of an indicator of the loader NOT being level than the bottom lip edge of the bucket in relation to the floor.

As far as "Is my FEL level?" to be honest, I have never checked. I think of the times where I have been stacking snow and one corner of the snow pusher caught a large ice chunk where the rest of the pusher didn't and you can visually see the impact on the loader.

Pry anything out of the ground with pallet forks and watch the twisting. Drive the bucket into crushed concrete and one side of the bucket comes out full and the other side with less due to the pile slope, etc. Grab that log or tree stump with the grapple and the one side still has a root attached and the other doesn't. Or simply pick up the large shrub you just pulled out of the ground and one side has the root ball and the other doesn't.

To be honest, I would be surprised if my loader was level. And if it is not level, I am not going to assume its shoddy manufacturing unless there is evidence to prove it (holes drilled at different heights on the frame, etc.....). Instead, I am going to attribute the condition of the FEL to how its used and even abused by many of us. After all, the photos posted here on GTT of the activity of these machines are bound to include some machine use which is "aggressive". Massive stumps chained to the bucket, etc, etc.

I will say I have never noticed my FEL bucket or any front implement clearly out of square when visually looking at the machine and I have an eye for that sort of thing. Guess its time to fire up the tractor and take a look. In the meantime, I have 20 yards of mulch to move this weekend and numerous other things to complete. If I get a chance, I will take a photo from the front just to see how things line up.

Sorry to hear about your "flipping arm, Kyle".
 

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let’s not fall into the “new norm” of letting shotty work pass as suitable when we pay for a premium brand.This is getting out of hand in all walks of life.
Too late, I'm afraid.
 
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from a manufacturing stand point I would say the arms where they are welded to the cross tube are out of rotation slightly. Not seated in the welding fixture correctly, welding fixture worn out, welder just didn't give a !!!!!. It would only take a minimal variance to create a 1/2-1 inch gap 3 feet away.
A lot of assumptions are being made in this measurement process. Is the concrete level? is the tractor level? If the concrete is off 1/4" and the tractor is off 1/4 " you are already a 1/2" out.
Maybe it is actually engineered that way like a mower deck should be higher on one side than the other for a quality cut.
Having one corner cut first reduces stress on the rest of the assembly.
When you come right down to it the "loader" is light duty for loading materials not digging and cutting earth.

PS when you let it down on the concrete does it lay flat or is one corner up in the air??
 

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2022 JD 1025R, 120R Loader, SB1154 snowblower, 54" mid-mower, HLA 900 lbs forks.
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Where the loader frame is mounted on the tractor frame, measure the distance from the tractor frame to the floor (not the loader bracket) on both sides. If that distance is the same, then your tractor is level from side to side in relation to the floor. If not, you know why the it's off. Now, the frame is much narrower than the bucket, so a 1/8" difference could be 3/8" at the bucket (guessing frame is 1/3 of the width of the bucket).

Try this and your other tests in different places in your garage just in case there's small variations in the floor. I know I never had a perfectly level garage floor. They look level, but are often not.
 
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2022 JD 1025R, 120R Loader, SB1154 snowblower, 54" mid-mower, HLA 900 lbs forks.
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Pry anything out of the ground with pallet forks and watch the twisting. Drive the bucket into crushed concrete and one side of the bucket comes out full and the other side with less due to the pile slope, etc. Grab that log or tree stump with the grapple and the one side still has a root attached and the other doesn't.
Good point, and I tend to do that from the left side only, even though I shouldn't do it. The reason I do it from the left side is muscle memory from using my friend's Kubota before getting my own tractor. The loader joystick on the orange machine I was using is mounted between the hood and loader frame, so can't see well from the right side between the hood and loader frame. Also, leaning towards the joystick and still using the joystick is not comfortable compared to moving away from it and operating it with a semi straight arm compared to a fully bent arm.
 
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You may find there is enough hole clearance where the loader mounts are bolted to the tractor frame that you can loosen them and adjust for and aft, up and down to get the bucket a bit more square.
 
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let’s not fall into the “new norm” of letting shotty work pass as suitable when we pay for a premium brand.This is getting out of hand in all walks of life.
Kbar, I agree with not accepting shoddy work especially when paying for a premium product. However there is a difference between shoddy work and a measurement being on one end or the other of it's acceptable tolerance.

I don't know what the tolerance is for the loader being level or if such a thing even exists as they may just check all that stuff at the component level, i.e. loader is checked at the loader plant, tires are checked at the tire plant, both are within spec but towards one end of the acceptable range. Put them together on the same chassis during final assembly and the two variances add together to create a larger, more noticeable one.

I wouldn't say it's a quality problem unless the tolerances are something wild. It's just normal manufacturing variation.
 

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I thought I had the same issue with my tractor (I noticed a few days after delivery). Once I parked on level ground, lifted the bucket ~1 foot off the ground and sighted the top of the bucket to the top of the front axle (raising/lowering my eyeball height until the two lines [1. top of bucket 2. top of front axle] were adjacent visually) I could see they were perfectly parallel. So for mine, it may be a manufacturing variance in the bucket itself... which is fine. I see no issue with alignment when the bucket is removed, nor when I have the pallet forks/frame on. This eased my mind a lot. My loader frame is square. My bucket... may be a little (very little) out of square. I'm fine with that.
 

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you will notice the pins in the joints are not concentric... ie they have an offset.

you can spin them around when the loader is not under load

View attachment 839989
You can’t spin them very far. The heads are offset to keep the pins from spinning. You won’t gain any adjustment from them
 

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Try removing the bucket and measuring the attachment points where the bucket attaches to the loader frame for level. If they are level, with the bucket sitting on the floor, measure the mounting points on the bucket to the floor.
Another measurement you could make would be the length of the loader arms to see if they measure the same length.
While this doesn't apply to your model a friend of mine has a 5045E he bought new last year and the bucket has never sat level. The dealer said they have had some problems with bucket arms. My friend manages a large dairy farm and has been too busy to take the tractor in to have it checked. Aside from crop harvesting last fall and all this spring's planting they are building two more 200' x 400 barns and adding another 1500 cows. The 5045E is his personal tractor he uses at home. If I find something out I'll let everyone know.
 

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2021 John Deere 1025R w/Mauser Cab, 120R Loader, JD 47” Front Snowblower, Artillian Front Setup
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My 2022 1025r loader with 50 hours isn't completely level. When I first noticed it yesterday, it was 3/4" out of level (left side lower). After doing some searching, I found an older thread where folks had some suggestions to try. Rear tire pressures were both exactly 20 psi when I started. Tires appear to be the same diameter, as closely as I could measure anyway. And the upper part of the loader arms are level, as well as everything further back. But the quick attach brackets without the bucket were not level (3/4" difference). So it appears that something isn't quite right with the lower part of the boom, but appears to be a fairly common thing from what I've read.

I put a piece of wood under the low side of the bucket and lowered it down all the way then loosened all 18 of the loader mounting bolts and then tightened them back up. Now the loader is only 1/2" out of level (still left side lower). I then lowered the opposite side rear tire to 18.5 psi to see if it would level it out and it made no difference at all. I think the rear tire pressures have to be WAY off to make a significant difference.

Am I being too picky? And before you even respond with solutions, please make sure that your loader is level. Because if this is just the way it is, I'll stop worrying about it.




Have you checked this out?
May be your issue! The ‘timing’ bar sync’s the two paddles.
 

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Ugh, I hate that video...Makes people chase a problem that does not exist.
 
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2021 John Deere 1025R w/Mauser Cab, 120R Loader, JD 47” Front Snowblower, Artillian Front Setup
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Ugh, I hate that video...Makes people chase a problem that does not exist.
Not true. I was having extreme issues with my brand new 1025r. It was difficult at best to make use of my quick attach system (paddles were a couple of inches out of sync at times). Performed this fix and everything is now perfect!
 

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Not true. I was having extreme issues with my brand new 1025r. It was difficult at best to make use of my quick attach system (paddles were a couple of inches out of sync at times). Performed this fix and everything is now perfect!
OK...good for you. He showed the "fix" in the first 20 seconds of the video, no drilling required.
 
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2021 John Deere 1025R w/Mauser Cab, 120R Loader, JD 47” Front Snowblower, Artillian Front Setup
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OK...good for you. He showed the "fix" in the first 20 seconds of the video, no drilling required.
Not sure what you mean about the first 20 seconds! if you mean tapping them on a level surface, you would have to do that every time! The problem with mine was that somebody at Deere elongated one of the holes in the timing bar, just a bit, so that one side slips to the end of said elongation every time you reverse direction. It looks like a problem in the countersync step (why they countersync the timing bar, I do not know). In the end, the fix took about 10 minutes and I never have to ‘tap’ again.
That said, sorry if my comment offended you. I assume so because of a hint of condescension in your reply. If so, you shouldn’t be that way with your customers (I assume you are THAT Ken). If so, I love your step for the 1025r with cab. Makes my life much easier as I am getting older now And need all the help I can get!
 

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That said, sorry if my comment offended you. I assume so because of a hint of condescension in your reply. If so, you shouldn’t be that way with your customers (I assume you are THAT Ken).
Offended? Not one bit! And no condensation was hinted/implied/intended. Just sharing my opinion as a member of GTT and someone that's had JDQA for 20 years.

Yes, I am "that Ken", but that shouldn't mean I can't participate and express my opinion too.
 

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Not true. I was having extreme issues with my brand new 1025r. It was difficult at best to make use of my quick attach system (paddles were a couple of inches out of sync at times). Performed this fix and everything is now perfect!
Once you get the holders under the ears on the bucket they straighten right out. That "fix" has nothing at all to do with a bucket out of level.
 
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Timing of the paddles off the bucket has no affect on level. Once they are Pined to the bucket they are mechanically locked together so they are same.
 

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The guy in the video is wrong anyway. A nut and bolt won't help any more than a larger pin and cotter pin. The round flanges that the timing rod enter are cast. A bolt and nut are not going to squeeze the rod any better than a pin and cotter pin.

Enlarging a worn out hole on the timing rod and putting in a bolt or pin will however help. The problem is the thin timing rod and holes that attach it to the paddles. A thicker walled timing rod without worn out holes is the fix for that.

Still has nothing to do with bucket level.
 
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The guy in the video is wrong anyway. A nut and bolt won't help any more than a larger pin and cotter pin. The round flanges that the timing rod enter are cast. A bolt and nut are not going to squeeze the rod any better than a pin and cotter pin.

Enlarging a worn out hole on the timing rod and putting in a bolt or pin will however help. The problem is the thin timing rod and holes that attach it to the paddles. A thicker walled timing rod without worn out holes is the fix for that.

Still has nothing to do with bucket level.
In my opinion enlarging the holes for a larger pin/bolt is useless because it too will likely wallow out. After a couple of enlargements you'll run out of material to enlarge.
 
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