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In my opinion enlarging the holes for a larger pin/bolt is useless because it too will likely wallow out. After a couple of enlargements you'll run out of material to enlarge.
Agreed,

It is a never ending battle. Just wanted to show that the bolt had nothing to do with it.
 
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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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It is a never ending battle.
And not that hard to overcome once you understand the mechanics of how it works. ;)
 
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2022 1025R, 54D Mid-Mount Mower, Pallet Forks, LP1160 Land Plane
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My 2022 1025R lists to port also. Thought about looking into it but it's way down on the list and probably will never make it into the top ten. I understand the issue though. "Why does my brand-spanking new expensive tractor have something obviously wrong with it?" And no, I haven't told my wife about it.
 

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2021 John Deere 1025R w/Mauser Cab, 120R, JD 47” Snowblower, Artillian Diverter, grapples,etc.
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The guy in the video is wrong anyway. A nut and bolt won't help any more than a larger pin and cotter pin. The round flanges that the timing rod enter are cast. A bolt and nut are not going to squeeze the rod any better than a pin and cotter pin.

Enlarging a worn out hole on the timing rod and putting in a bolt or pin will however help. The problem is the thin timing rod and holes that attach it to the paddles. A thicker walled timing rod without worn out holes is the fix for that.

Still has nothing to do with bucket level.
The reason he suggests a nut and bolt is that it is eceedingly difficult to find a pin that size (1/16 bigger, roughly).
Also, the holes are not worn. My current tractor has only 40 hours on it, mostly using a snowblower, not the loader. The problem is in the design or manufacturing process.
Finally, further wear, if anything, will be negligible, whether you have a pin or a bolt there (I know it wasn’t you who mentioned this one).
 

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The reason he suggests a nut and bolt is that it is eceedingly difficult to find a pin that size (1/16 bigger, roughly).
Also, the holes are not worn. My current tractor has only 40 hours on it, mostly using a snowblower, not the loader. The problem is in the design or manufacturing process.
Finally, further wear, if anything, will be negligible, whether you have a pin or a bolt there (I know it wasn’t you who mentioned this one).
I could see how a slightly larger bolt would help if the factory hole is too big.

Still has nothing to do with bucket level
 
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2021 John Deere 1025R w/Mauser Cab, 120R, JD 47” Snowblower, Artillian Diverter, grapples,etc.
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Once you get the holders under the ears on the bucket they straighten right out. That "fix" has nothing at all to do with a bucket out of level.
I just meant that it might be possible. Since the only thing keeping the two cylinders in sync is the timing bar, an elongated hole on one side or the other could definitely make the bucket slightly lower on one side!
 

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I just meant that it might be possible. Since the only thing keeping the two cylinders in sync is the timing bar, an elongated hole on one side or the other could definitely make the bucket slightly lower on one side!
Once an attachment is on the loader arms the timing bar has no purpose. The bucket is a fixed object. Once it's connected, the implement holders (Deere's official name for the parts) cannot get out of time. The same goes for any other loader mounted implement (grapple, forks, etc). The holders can only get out of time when nothing is attached. There is no way that holder out of time can cause the bucket (or whatever) to not be level.

Once you know the trick to make it hook up, it's no longer an issue and, IMHO, is not worth the effort needed to fix it.
 

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Mark uses words better than I do
 

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Yea just curl all the way in to sync them.
 

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I like the curl thing. It keeps stuff in the bucket better
 
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I like the curl thing. It keeps stuff in the bucket better
Your curl is broke....or did you move your loader stick to the Left side?

What side of a horse do you climb on ?
 

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Left and left
 
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