Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I searched the forum a bit and apologized if I just missed these questions being asked and answered.

Can the 120r loader be removed without an attachment like the bucket or forks on?

Once the loader is off the tractor can you compress the cylinders to are at a bit prior to disconnecting the hydros?

Thanks All.

Mark
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,204 Posts
Yes, you can take the loader off without a bucket on. Some people do that. Most people don't. IMO, it is easier to dismount and mount the loader with the bucket on. But some people have storage issues so.. it is what it is.

And yes, the hydraulics will work as long as they are connected. You can dismount the loader, back up a couple of inches, work the cylinders as needed and then disconnect the hydro lines. You won't have a lot of play in the lines but there will be a little. Once the loader is off you can pull up along side it, connect the hydro lines and do whatever you might need to do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Levi

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,043 Posts
Without the bucket, the center of gravity will be higher on the loader arms alone. And you won't have the stabilizing base that the bucket provides. The parking stand is narrow compared to the bucket.

Those loader arms are heavy. I vaguely remember a warning in the manual that says the bucket must be present. There's probably a good reason for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,419 Posts
Yes, you can take the loader off without a bucket on. Some people do that. Most people don't. IMO, it is easier to dismount and mount the loader with the bucket on. But some people have storage issues so.. it is what it is.

And yes, the hydraulics will work as long as they are connected. You can dismount the loader, back up a couple of inches, work the cylinders as needed and then disconnect the hydro lines. You won't have a lot of play in the lines but there will be a little. Once the loader is off you can pull up along side it, connect the hydro lines and do whatever you might need to do.
If you have pallet forks, remove the forks and just leave the pallet frame attached to the loader. It is much easier to dismount the loader with some weight attached to it. The frame won't take up that much extra space, if that is your concern. I do not suggest that you retract your cylinders after the loader is removed, as they may leak down, making it very hard to remount the loader. You should fully extend the loader so it is completely resting on the parking stand. In this manner the stand holds the loader up without pressure on the hydraulic cylinders. If you don't have a pallet fork, just figure out a way to weigh the loader down until it is discounted.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Wondering if construction details have been posted for the wheels, stands, etc. I’m seriously thinking about putting one together. My shed is too small and would be helpful if I could roll it out of way. I’m 80 and worry about tripping . Thanks, so much ! Dan



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,306 Posts
Wondering if construction details have been posted for the wheels, stands, etc. I’m seriously thinking about putting one together. My shed is too small and would be helpful if I could roll it out of way. I’m 80 and worry about tripping . Thanks, so much ! Dan



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Dan, if you search the term “dollies” you’ll find many threads about building them for backhoes and loaders.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Onceagain

·
Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
If you have pallet forks, remove the forks and just leave the pallet frame attached to the loader. It is much easier to dismount the loader with some weight attached to it. The frame won't take up that much extra space, if that is your concern. I do not suggest that you retract your cylinders after the loader is removed, as they may leak down, making it very hard to remount the loader. You should fully extend the loader so it is completely resting on the parking stand. In this manner the stand holds the loader up without pressure on the hydraulic cylinders. If you don't have a pallet fork, just figure out a way to weigh the loader down until it is discounted.

Just a quick question on your statemnt about fully extending the loader. I just looked at the manual and it states:

Extend lift cylinders until parking stand (B) contacts ground and masts (A) completely lift off frames

I have been only extending them enough to be high enough to drive out and compensate for a little settling and never had an issue. Just wondering why you say fully extend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,419 Posts
Just a quick question on your statemnt about fully extending the loader. I just looked at the manual and it states:

Extend lift cylinders until parking stand (B) contacts ground and masts (A) completely lift off frames

I have been only extending them enough to be high enough to drive out and compensate for a little settling and never had an issue. Just wondering why you say fully extend.
Sorry, I thought my post was self explanatory. If you should ever experience leak down, you will then understand why you should fully extend the loader cylinders. The attached YouTube by Tractor Tim should further explain the concept. Watch the whole video as TTWT better explains it than maybe I did.

John Deere 1025R Loader removal/storage on rollers/caster wheels. - YouTube

PS: My post is referring to a JD 1025R/120R or H120 loader.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tractor Tim

·
Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,419 Posts
ah, i missed the leak down statement.
No problem. More often than not, I have to read posts several times. I'm always missing something the 1st, 2nd, 3rd.........time. :lol:
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top