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Discussion Starter #1
I need to store my tractor in an unheated barn for approximately three years. Does anyone have any long term storage recommendations for me?
 

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Where is the tractor being stored? I am specifically interested in climate. How frequently will the tractor be exercised? Is the barn water tight or will the tractor be exposed to moisture? Answers to these questions will help you determine weatherization methods required.
 

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bummer.....gotta leave it cooped up for about three years? hope you have a good place to put it. check with your local dealer, he will probably have instructions for long term storage....just a thought.
 

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man thats a long time!.. Just a couple of things I can think of.. I gotta believe that getting every bit of fuel out the system is going to be key (maybe not but one of the diesel experts on here should know).. I would imagine though, that 3 year old diesel in any amt can't be good unless completely sealed off from any air whatsoever.. Get rid of every paper filter to avoid mice.. Maybe loosen off the oil filter slightly so it doesn't rust and sieze (again related to the moisture levels it'll be exposed to).. Coat the rims and any metal surface close to the ground in valsoline or something to prevent corrosion (rims etc).. Get the tires off the ground slightly and get a good cover on it, making sure its a cover that can breath..
 
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It might make more sense to sell it. Is that an option?

If you could get someone to run it 20 minutes a month and its dry. You might not notice its been stored at all.
 

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It might make more sense to sell it. Is that an option?

If you could get someone to run it 20 minutes a month and its dry. You might not notice its been stored at all.
I thought the same thing.
 

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If you can't get someone to start it up every month, I would consider doing the following:
1. Change all oil and oil filters - Engine oil and hydraulic. (As a minimum, I'd refill the engine oil, not sure whether refilling the hydraulic sump is needed.)
2. Flush and replace antifreeze - I may consider draining, flushing and leaving the cooling system empty.
3. Drain fuel tank - not sure about running it dry, but for 3 years, I would. (I hope some of our GTT diesel expert can help here.) I would at least empty the fuel bowl and put a new filter in.
4. Grease up/apply some type of rust preventative on all the exposed hydraulic cylinder rods.
5. Put the tractor up on blocks (get it off the tires).
6. Remove all paper/fiber air filters and/or at least seal off the air intake to prevent a mice infestation.
7. Remove battery.
8. Seal off any breathers that you can.
9. Cover tractor with a breathable cover.
10. Put a sign on the steering wheel of what needs to be added (oil, antifreeze, battery, etc.) before starting.

After the 3 year holding period, I would again change the oil again, at least engine oil, and probably hydraulic too. You don't want moisture in either. Replacing the antifreeze again is probably overkill, but I would consider it too.

I'm no expert, but this is just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 1026 TLB will be in an unconditioned metal shed, concrete floor, located in southern Indiana.

I am investigating all of my options, including selling the tractor. Currently it has approximately 54 fault free hours, with the 50 hour service performed by the dealer.

Thank you for the response.
 

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Three years isn't that long, if you can keep it dry and keep the mice out it will be fine. The fuel won't go bad in three years, in fact I would top off the tank before storage. As the tank expands and contracts with temperature swings it draws air in, the moisture in the air condenses in the tank. Less air space in the tank means less moisture.

You would normally want to change the engine oil before long term storage because it becomes acidic from the the combustion process. If it's just had the 50 hr service you don't need to worry about that. There is no combustion in the hydraulic system so that is not a concern. There is no other reason to drain those fluids prior to storage, you will be far better protected by making sure they are full. When you put the machine back in service you may want to change those fluids to remove any condensed water. I wouldn't do anything with the coolant. You could do a simple ph test, but at 54 hours it's not likely gone acidic.

I'd remove the battery, either put it on a maintainer or store it where it won't freeze and crack. If you can keep it charged it won't freeze.
 

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I know that they use some kind of fogging chemical for boat engines. I think the fog coats the cylinder walls to keep them from rusting.
Good point felixm, People have been fogging snowmobile engines for summer storage for years.
 

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The cam in the engine would be exposed to air for a long time. The top half of the transmission internals including the rockshaft cylinder and valve would also be exposed. I'd be tempted to fill both with oil to almost overflowing just to submerge all the internal components.

It's either best to get someone to run it once in a while and use it, or sell it. Letting a tractor (or any piece of equipment) sit around for long periods of time can be very detrimental to it.

Just for giggles, look at this cam. It was exposed to air inside the engine for who knows how long before it was run again....

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1396137557.101363.jpg

It's trashed unless you were to send it out and have it polished.


Just my .0000000002
 
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