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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All!

I am in the planning stages of setting up my 870 to accept a 5’4” Landpride snowblower that has a hydraulic chute control.

Problem is, my 870 is mostly stock, and does not have any other hydraulic outlets out back. KennyD suggested that I go with a diverter from the dump/curl function of the loader, as it would be cheaper than adding true hydraulic outlets in the rear. It was also said that this would be a low use function, so a dedicated output isn’t required.

The question of electric vs manual has been brought up, as well as if it was manual, where would you mount it?

The loader hydraulics attach below the left foot rest. I haven’t pulled the tin off to see where those pipes lead to, but feel it must be under the floor boards.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions as to the best way for me to add a couple outlets to the tractor to run this device?

I don’t really see the need to add a dedicated system out back, as I don’t feel I am going to add any other attachment to the tractor that would need it.

Down the road, I figure I will sell the B, and get a JD 620 to do the big work around our property.

Thanks for any help! :bigbeer:
 

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I only have time for a quick reply, so I’ll just start with pasting the PM’s I sent to Wingrider on this:

This would make a great thread in the hydraulics forum


We do sell an electric diverter, but you could probably use a manual one since the chute usage would be intermittent, they are under $100. The advantage of an electric one is that you can easily and quickly switch back and forth from a small switch, great for things like a grapple as an example where your switching constantly.

A diverter basically has one input, and two outputs that are "either/or" so only one can be used at a time. HERE is an example of a simple manual diverter. If your familiar with electric/electronics, is basically a DPDT switch for hydraulics.

Your original post was about buying a specific snowblower...now your looking at a different one and need remotes...so starting a new thread is more appropriate than taking the current one further off the original topic. Just my thought anyway...Plus answering these questions help MANY people so it's better for everyone.

Our electric one is $275 and includes the electrics. You can view the specs on the website.

SC also has some like THIS one that you can just rig up a ON/OFF toggle somewhere. HERE is all their offerings.

Also, a search on the forum of the the term "diverter" will turn up many threads, most related to grapples and FEL's but the theory is all the same.

This is a start...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Kenny for helping me out to get this far.

One thing I do need to think about is the operation of said valve. When I am going to be using this, it will need to be fairly easily managed. Heavy mittens or gloves will be worn, as well as thick boots, so I do need to be able to run it without having to pull a glove off.

Just one more piece to the proverbial puzzle....
 

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Hello All!

I am in the planning stages of setting up my 870 to accept a 5’4” Landpride snowblower that has a hydraulic chute control.

Problem is, my 870 is mostly stock, and does not have any other hydraulic outlets out back. KennyD suggested that I go with a diverter from the dump/curl function of the loader, as it would be cheaper than adding true hydraulic outlets in the rear. It was also said that this would be a low use function, so a dedicated output isn’t required.

The question of electric vs manual has been brought up, as well as if it was manual, where would you mount it?

I would mount it to the left side loader tower, it would only be installed when the blower is so I would make it sort of "quick attach"

The loader hydraulics attach below the left foot rest. I haven’t pulled the tin off to see where those pipes lead to, but feel it must be under the floor boards.

You don't need to access the pipes. You just need 18" (or whatever) hoses on the IN side of the diverter with male QD's, these will plug into the DUMP/CURL circuit when it's mounted. Next, add female QD's to the valve's normal "OUT" ports, you will plug your loader hoses into them so it will function when the diverter is not actuated. Finally, run long hoses from other "diverted" ports on the valve to the rear for the chute-add QD sets as required to make it user friendly. This method will work for a electric or manual diverter.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions as to the best way for me to add a couple outlets to the tractor to run this device?

I don’t really see the need to add a dedicated system out back, as I don’t feel I am going to add any other attachment to the tractor that would need it.

Down the road, I figure I will sell the B, and get a JD 620 to do the big work around our property.

Thanks for any help! :bigbeer:
I have a few more minutes...see above.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you Kenny! Based on that info, I question if I wouldn’t be better off going with an electric setup.

Just thinking of how long the hoses are on the loader, I may need to mount this lower than I can normally reach.

I will try to get out to the tractor tomorrow and take some pictures of how this rig is set up.
 

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There are a few ways to skin that cat WR. Pictures will sure help...
 

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Kennyd, RE; the manual valve you linked to (in the PM) from SC, Wouldn't you need TWO of these? Then you would have to switch both of these to switch from the loader's curl/dump cylinders to the chute cylinder. That is ASSUMING the chute will use a double acting cylinder.
 

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Kennyd, RE; the manual valve you linked to (in the PM) from SC, Wouldn't you need TWO of these? Then you would have to switch both of these to switch from the loader's curl/dump cylinders to the chute cylinder. That is ASSUMING the chute will use a double acting cylinder.
Good catch Z5, to much going on and a lack of sleep are contributing factors to my error. He needs "double" selector valve like this one:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Selector-Valves/1-2-NPT-20-GPM-Double-Selector-Valve-9-4128.axd
 

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That is true, but the simple one shown above would work very nicely so you would not have to connect the hydraulic lift for the mower all the time, but seems to me it is just not worth it. But would be a nice project if you felt it was!
Kennyd, RE; the manual valve you linked to (in the PM) from SC, Wouldn't you need TWO of these? Then you would have to switch both of these to switch from the loader's curl/dump cylinders to the chute cylinder. That is ASSUMING the chute will use a double acting cylinder.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alrighty, managed to get out to the property and shoot a couple pictures of where the loader lines come in on the 870... hopefully these make sense, and are what ya’ll are looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For some reason, I can’t modify my last post while on my phone, so we will try the pictures again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I am bringing this back up to try and get my 870 ready for winter. I have decided that I will purchase the diverter valve kit from Kennyd, as it looks to be a very clean system.

Now I just need to figure out the best way to mount and run this on my tractor. Hopefully my pictures above are oriented correctly for you all to see. Should I run the hoses to tie into the hydraulics behind the quick connects, or in front of them?

Thanks for any help!:cheers:
 

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I don't remember the exact model of this machine, but it's similar to yours:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, that certainly does look similar! So, can you tell me everything else I should toss in the basket to purchase from you?

I greatly appreciate the help!
 

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I can work on a package for you-you will still need to fab the mount. I will need a measurement from where the diverter will be located to the female couplers, and to the rear of the tractor.

Also,
Will you want couplers at the rear of the tractor so you can remove the blower easily? Do you know what size couplers are on the blower?

Maybe it's best we talk one day to iron out the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
That would be great! I can certainly make the mount. I will get the measurements later on today I hope. Yes, I would like to make it easy to take off, so rear couplers would be nice. I will try to figure out how big the couplers are on the blower.
 

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Hey Kenny, I am looking to pull the trigger on a 4 n 1 bucket and have been researching my options for the 3rd function. I see you have a diverter kit for $275. Artillian has a kit for $700. What is the difference in the kits? I am fairly handy but don't have much knowledge on the hydraulic stuff. is your kit a base of some sort that parts need to be added per specific tractor and the Artillian kit an all in one and fits specific loaders? In other words if I buy your kit as is, can I install and make the 4 n 1 bucket operational? Thanks for any help
 

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Hey Kenny, I am looking to pull the trigger on a 4 n 1 bucket and have been researching my options for the 3rd function. I see you have a diverter kit for $275. Artillian has a kit for $700. What is the difference in the kits? I am fairly handy but don't have much knowledge on the hydraulic stuff. is your kit a base of some sort that parts need to be added per specific tractor and the Artillian kit an all in one and fits specific loaders? In other words if I buy your kit as is, can I install and make the 4 n 1 bucket operational? Thanks for any help
Jason,
The one we sell is just the valve and electrics, that means the end user has to figure out all the fittings, hoses, and mounts themselves. The Artillian unit is a model specific kit that includes everything so it is truly plug-n-play, the ends user needs only to read the detailed instructions and/or watch the TTWT video for a perfect result in under two hours. No trips to the local hydraulic shop or ordering the wrong parts and waiting/paying for shipping while your machine is disabled.

The actual valve body and switch is the same for both our units, and they both function identically.
 

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Jason,
The one we sell is just the valve and electrics, that means the end user has to figure out all the fittings, hoses, and mounts themselves. The Artillian unit is a model specific kit that includes everything so it is truly plug-n-play, the ends user needs only to read the detailed instructions and/or watch the TTWT video for a perfect result in under two hours. No trips to the local hydraulic shop or ordering the wrong parts and waiting/paying for shipping while your machine is disabled.

The actual valve body and switch is the same for both our units, and they both function identically.
Awesome, thank you that's exactly what I wanted to know. thanks again.
 

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