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Discussion Starter #1
I don’t want to spend 800 for a tractor supply chain drag. I would rather make one as pull it behind the disc. Here is what I have to my disposal. I have some 6ft grader blades. Honestly would like the drag the same width as my disc (14) I also have plenty or chain and 2inch pipe. Any idea on a design plan that will worth nice as right?
 

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Just tossing out some ideas....I sometimes pull a heavy steel beam and it works well I pull it from two points so I can put some angle on it since likes some angle to not pile up dirt in front of it...if I were to build one from grade blades I would make it pointed like a arrow and pull it from the point...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I’ve tried a steel rail road iron beam about 10ft with chain welded on each end. It worked for knocking down gopher hills or on sand but It would jump over anything that was somewhat solid. Angling it might would help but I think it’s not quite heavy enough. The grader blades seems like it would work and cut through the dirt. Just wanted some sort of plan on what people are using. Which worked the best. The chain ones you purchase for around 800 seem to break. The way they are made I see how it would work well though. Eats the ground up when it flows through each of the diamond patterns.
 

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Cross ties work well also. Or you can use chain link fencing with weight on the fencing. Use a 4'X6' piece.
 

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Heavy board

We used to use something like a 2 x 12 which was suspended on an angle from the top of the disk. Angle iron going from the top of the disk back about 3' and then angle iron pivoting so that the board was held at about a 30' degree angle or so to the ground. When we moved from field to field, we just folded the board up on top of the disk. It worked well but replaced by a rolling harrow which folded hydraulically.

A guy in our area made drags by bolting used tires together. He sold them for arena drags would you could do the same thing behind a disk. Those would be a little awkward to move but the only cost would be bolts, thick washers and a little chain.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No sir still taking ideas in. I’ve drug heavy stuff like rail road iron or cross ties even Cattle panels with tires on top. They seem to jump around or not work how id liked, works for thing such as gopher hill or dirt clumps. I’m wanting to level a pasture that will be smooth enough to cruise across with the tractor when moving or bailing hay. Right now there are humps everywhere from when it used to be used to grow watermelons (windows and natural drain spots since it’s the bottom of a hill) I suppose the disc alone will level a lot of that out...

I’ve been thinking about using the grader blades and welding a chain 12ft in between. I’d be dragging something flexible that that would cut the dirt. Still taking ideas in. It will be a couple months till I’m disking and planting oats.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Or to put the blades at a cutting angle and weld 3 inch iron on each end (basically a square box with blades in it) Would not flex then but it would definitely cut dirt and move dirt....
 

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What you are describing is a box blade or land plane.

Go here - Metalworking Fabrication

There’s guys in there who have made their own stuff including what you are looking for. You are already halfway there having grader blades.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
What you are describing is a box blade or land plane.

Go here - Metalworking Fabrication

There’s guys in there who have made their own stuff including what you are looking for. You are already halfway there having grader blades.
I own a box blade and a straight blade. that’s not really what I’m suggesting. Here is a picture of one I found and the design I had in mind. Except mine a drag not 3 point. Opinions?

Also, those chain harrows must get damaged easily. Lots for sale with holes ripped in them. Even the way over priced.
 

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i disced up a existing old field/pasture last year...with humps n bumps ...i wanted golf course smooth when i was done...after disking ......i pulled a beam at a angle several times......i have a big box blade i used....rock raked it....and pulled a cutipacker over it...

i have also tried the heavy chain type drags ....and they tend to break the soiil up well into smaller chunks so its easier to move and they smooth well and prep a seed bed well ..but they do not in my opinion cut and fill bumps and dips

i noticed my beam when i pulled it strait would hop and bump over hills ....it did better at a angle.....it did even better when it got more dirt piled up on it adding weight....and since it had 2 edges so it had a double action effect ........big box blade also worked great and did a good job of moving material to specific places

i think the harrow you picture would work somewhere between the chain drag and the beam drag and would do more cut and fill the heavier it is ....i would probably make it so i could turn it over one side with the cutting edges agressive and the other side with the edges laid back and not agressive ....i have found that things rarely work perfectly just as i envision it but i keep trying things till i get the desired results

pic of last years field prior to planting
 

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I plan to build something similar to the picture in post #10.....

If I want to pull it on the draw bar, I can always make up a tow bar or use chain...

My 5 cents of thinking so far..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i disced up a existing old field/pasture last year...with humps n bumps ...i wanted golf course smooth when i was done...after disking ......i pulled a beam at a angle several times......i have a big box blade i used....rock raked it....and pulled a cutipacker over it...

i have also tried the heavy chain type drags ....and they tend to break the soiil up well into smaller chunks so its easier to move and they smooth well and prep a seed bed well ..but they do not in my opinion cut and fill bumps and dips

i noticed my beam when i pulled it strait would hop and bump over hills ....it did better at a angle.....it did even better when it got more dirt piled up on it adding weight....and since it had 2 edges so it had a double action effect ........big box blade also worked great and did a good job of moving material to specific places

i think the harrow you picture would work somewhere between the chain drag and the beam drag and would do more cut and fill the heavier it is ....i would probably make it so i could turn it over one side with the cutting edges agressive and the other side with the edges laid back and not agressive ....i have found that things rarely work perfectly just as i envision it but i keep trying things till i get the desired results

pic of last years field prior to planting
Now that is pretty field, I’ll take a picture of the rail road beam I was using how I have the chains welded. Pulling it straight could be my whole problem. Bouncing around factor.

The guy just above saying he liked the plan I posted. You saying I could make one side rough and smooth. I went out earlier this morning and counted. I’ve got 5 of those 6 foot grader blades. They have to weight about 70 pounds each
 
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