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Brian, A volt meter, and better yet, a multimeter, will tell you if you have a stator issue. I'm not sure which stator/charging system you have, but you'll have 2 wires coming from the stator. Set meter to AC volts & connect meter to these wires. Start engine & warm, then go full throttle and read voltage. I don't have exact spec but thinking ~around~ 24-40 volts AC. If no volts, stator or magnet issue. If volts, problem is elsewhere!

Unless you're dong electronics type work ANY multimeter will work! Harbor Freight has them for $7.00 and most box stores have them for under $50. If you get "lost" in the instructions, post make & model of meter here and we'll help ya. Bob
 

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Brian, I don't know how much engine work you've done, but use care when removing flywheel! It looks like it's a tapered fit and they've been known to be hard to remove. Some guys have removed the spark plug and stuffed a piece of rope into the cylinder to stop rotation when removing or installing the bolt on the end of the crank holding the flywheel on. The flywheel looks like it has tapped holes for removal and you may need to make a puller plate. After removing, inspect key closely and replace if it shows ANY wear or distortion.

The meter you posted should work fine. Bob
 

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Another note! After you break the flywheel bolt loose, back it out about 1 r 2 turns, This will do 2 things: Prevent the flywheel from "popping off" too far, and also protect the threads in the end of the crank from any damage that could be caused by the puller. Bob
 
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Brian, Hmm, I just thought of something else that you may need! I don't know what type of puller "Bob" has, but if it's the 3 jaw type, it'll have to be pretty big. If it's the "bearing separator" type, hopefully he'll have a "strongback" too.... a long, narrow H looking thing with a tapped hole & screw in center. Check the tapped holes in the flywheel as they may be metric! Get bolts while you're out! Bob
 
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