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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I’m new and enjoyed reading thru many related posts. Thanks.
I have an LT155 with Kohler engine. It was running fine then shut off, and now will no longer start. It turns over real good. I put a spark inline tester and can see that it has very good spark. I decided to test that since I sprayed starter fluid in air intake and it still will not start, so replaced plug and got the inline tester to make sure it has spark, thinking that rules out ignition coil.
i jumpered the seat switch and backup switch to rule out those. Thinking I should pull flywheel to check key for timing issue. Any other suggestions before I go that route? Thanks, Joe in Arkansas
 

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Given your description I would check the flywheel key first and then confirm your valve adjustment. That will also give you a chance to confirm the valves are working. Since it won't run with starting fluid that rules out any kind of fuel delivery problem (for the time being). You have confirmed you have spark (although it could be happening at the wrong time). So all that is remaining is air and compression.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wasn’t sure if there was another kill switch that fed into the ignition coil, so I tried starting with the white wire removed from ignition coil, didn‘t work. Let me know if there is one that I need to rule out.
Okay, I appreciate the feedback and will check for the flywheel key.
 

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I wasn’t sure if there was another kill switch that fed into the ignition coil, so I tried starting with the white wire removed from ignition coil, didn‘t work. Let me know if there is one that I need to rule out.
Okay, I appreciate the feedback and will check for the flywheel key.
I don't think there is but at this point it wouldn't matter because you have confirmed you have spark. Spark, air, compression and fuel is all you need for the engine to run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, I bought a new flywheel key for a whopping $1.80, lol. Pulled flywheel and the old key looked good. I replaced it anyway. One thing I did notice is that when I removed the bolts for the ignition coil, they were extremely easy to unscrew. When I was putting them back in and tightening by hand, they were both stripped, so was thinking that could be the issue, but it was not. I went with larger bolts and lock washers, they held real tight, but again, still did not work when cranking with starter fluid in air intake. Okay, next step to check compression...should I buy a compression tester or go straight to checking the valve gap? Thanks for the valuable and greatly appreciated advice.
 

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It is always a good idea to verify the valve clearance adjustment. There is no harm in pulling the valve cover and checking the valves. That also gives a chance to observe if everything is moving properly. When turning the engine over by hand does it seem to have a good amount of compression?
 

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Very likely you have hydraulic lifters which are non adjustable. If it feels like it has compression, it probably does. These will drop an exhaust seat once in a while if not. Depending which choke shaft it has it, the top could have broken and the choke is being held shut and flooding the engine. Remove the air box and give a check. As jgayman said too, these coils can throw the spark at the wrong time if the CD has failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello, Just seeing that latest reply. You are so right. I pulled the valve cover earlier today and was like what in the world?!? No torx set screw, no way to adjust!!! Okay, I‘ll check out the choke next.
Silly question, in previous reply, what does ‘CD’ stand for? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just pulled air box and verified choke is good. No issues, works fine. I’ve only spent $5 on plug and key, plus bought inline tester that will be helpful to have going forward. So, think my next best option is to replace ignition coil to be safe because it was mentioned that could have spark at wrong time??? Thanks
 

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Just a quickie note, the flywheel bolt MUST be torqued down to its proper value. I have seen way too many of those that sheared the keyway for a legit reason, and then, they were consistantly shearing them again and not knowing why. You just cant use an impact gun and hope its tight enough.
 

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Hello, Just seeing that latest reply. You are so right. I pulled the valve cover earlier today and was like what in the world?!? No torx set screw, no way to adjust!!! Okay, I‘ll check out the choke next.
Silly question, in previous reply, what does ‘CD’ stand for? Thanks!
Sorry... that was my bad. I didn't realize Kohler used hydraulic lifters in some of its engines. I looked up the parts illustration for your engine and sure enough - hydraulic lifters. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello, Last update on this. I tried a new ignition coil/module, no luck. I started checking the compression again and noticed how much easier it was to spin. So, I think it ended up being a compression problem. So, after 22 years of great service, I decided to let it go for $300. The guy who bought it rebuilds motors and also thought it was compression.

Big Thanks to Jgayman, Tsoleno, and Toughsox for all the awesome advice. Much appreciated! Take care.
 

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Okay, I bought a new flywheel key for a whopping $1.80, lol. Pulled flywheel and the old key looked good. I replaced it anyway. One thing I did notice is that when I removed the bolts for the ignition coil, they were extremely easy to unscrew. When I was putting them back in and tightening by hand, they were both stripped, so was thinking that could be the issue, but it was not. I went with larger bolts and lock washers, they held real tight, but again, still did not work when cranking with starter fluid in air intake. Okay, next step to check compression...should I buy a compression tester or go straight to checking the valve gap? Thanks for the valuable and greatly appreciated advice.
When you put the coil back on did you set the air gap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, first I used a business card, didn’t work. Then used a feeler gauge I picked up from Autozone. Still no luck.
I got the ignition coil from Amazon with good reviews, but maybe was not???
 

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Yes, first I used a business card, didn’t work. Then used a feeler gauge I picked up from Autozone. Still no luck.
I got the ignition coil from Amazon with good reviews, but maybe was not???
I went through junk aftermarket coils on a 160, it would spark, but it wasn’t strong enough to regularly start the engine.
 
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