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Discussion Starter #1
I did the usual pre-season maintenance on the mower. Changed the sparkplug, drained the oil, replaced the oil and fuel filter and replaced the oil. I went to start it after that and all I heard was clicking in the solenoid.

The next day I went to the local JD dealer and picked up a new solenoid and installed it. This time when I turn the key I don't even get clicks, nada.

I can jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and start the engine.

The engine will idle, the next problem is that when I release the parking brake, the engine dies. If I slowly release the parking brake, I can make the engine almost die and push it back in to make the motor rev back up.

With these series of events, I can't tell if it's the solenoid, parking brake safety or something else that is at fault.

I did some searching but didn't find anything related to these symptoms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
JD
 

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Welcome to GreenTractorTalk. Your problem is a little confusing. Did the tractor start ok before maintenance? Which terminals did you cross on the solenoid to make it start? The two large ones? There are two safety switches involved in cranking. The pto needs to be in neutral and the Brake needs to be locked. A bad pto switch, brake switch, key switch or solenoid could cause the non-starting, but the engine shutting down when you release the brake could be a bad seat switch. Or, you could have some damaged wiring. Any possibility of mice getting into the wiring over the winter?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the welcome.

The tractor will not start on it's own. It did start normally the season prior to the maintenance. I had to jump the two large posts on the solenoid to get it to start.

I picked up a second solenoid and will try that. It's looking like I'll have to start changing out all of the safety switches to isolate it. When I release the brake it acts as if one of the safety switches is not working. As for mice, that's always a possibility, lots of farms around here with plenty of field mice.

Thanks for the suggestions, it give me some places to start troubleshooting further.
 

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With a good Ohm meter you can test each switch rather than just replacing them. You can also test for +12 volts at the small terminals of the solenoid while the key is ON.


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I'll dig up my multimeter and get to work on testing all of the switches. I never thought about testing the small blade terminals on the solenoid, will do that as well. Thank you for the great info jd110 and Kennyd, much appreciated.
 

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Electrical issues are the bane of my existence, especially when I don't have a wiring diagram. I need to dig one of those up for this sucker tomorrow.

I did ohm readings from the following points and their corresponding reading, each reading was taken with the key switch to the ON position and me sitting on the seat unless otherwise noted:

Seat switch seated: ~70
Seat switch unseated: ~70
Brake Engaged: ~3.0
Blade posts on solenoid: ~3.0-3.5
Blade posts on solenoid when key turned to start: 0.0
Blade posts on solenoid when brake disengaged: 0.0

I've tried two new solenoids and the old one.
 

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I assume the 70 is ohms? That does not sound correct. The seat switch should be near zero like having the meter leads shorted together OR infinite (open). If it's reading 70 ohms both ways then that is a problem.

There should be two wires to the seat switch (I think), you can unplug it-the install a jumper wire between the two wire coming from the tractor and see if it will start.
 

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I assume the 70 is ohms? That does not sound correct. The seat switch should be near zero like having the meter leads shorted together OR infinite (open). If it's reading 70 ohms both ways then that is a problem.

There should be two wires to the seat switch (I think), you can unplug it-the install a jumper wire between the two wire coming from the tractor and see if it will start.
I agree with Kenny on this one. Seat switch should, at least, change state. Try the jumper.

sent from the road
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No go with jumpering the seat switch connector. The joys of electrical issues. Taking it into the shop Saturday, it's beaten me lol. Thanks a ton for the help and suggestions.
 

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No go with jumpering the seat switch connector. The joys of electrical issues. Taking it into the shop Saturday, it's beaten me lol. Thanks a ton for the help and suggestions.
Sorry to hear we could not help get you through this...please let us know what they find.
 

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I finally got it back from the shop. I already replaced the solenoid so they replaced the two relays the seat switch and threw in a battery as the old one was on the way out. It is finally alive!

Just wanted to update.

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Electrical issues are the bane of my existence, especially when I don't have a wiring diagram. I need to dig one of those up for this sucker tomorrow.

I did ohm readings from the following points and their corresponding reading, each reading was taken with the key switch to the ON position and me sitting on the seat unless otherwise noted:

Seat switch seated: ~70
Seat switch unseated: ~70
Brake Engaged: ~3.0
Blade posts on solenoid: ~3.0-3.5
Blade posts on solenoid when key turned to start: 0.0
Blade posts on solenoid when brake disengaged: 0.0

I've tried two new solenoids and the old one.
If you were testing these points with the KEY ON, meter should of been set to VOLTS instead of OHMS. Probably why you got the goofy readings.

Oh well, you got 'er going anyway. :)
 
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