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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone used the Lucas oil that you mix into you engine oil. It's supposed to help stop oil burn off. I have a Dodge Ram 1500 V8 engine with 215,000 miles & I'm starting to burn oil & would like to slow it down. The truck is only used to make short runs to the recycle center (fancy for dump) & picking up building materials. Total truck use over a month's time is maybe 75-100 miles at under 50 MPH. Thanks.
 

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You are better off to go up a weight or 2 in oil than use Lucas. The "stabilizer" only thickens the oil and waters down the original stock's additive package as the Lucas contains no detergents or anti-wear additives. If it was mine, I'd swap out the oil for some 15w40 and motor on. My uncle did that in his 95 Chevy pickup a number of years ago... before my cousin totaled it.

Side note: my dad sells Lucas products but I do not advocate for anything other than the 2 stroke oil and injector cleaner. I use those 2 a lot but won't touch the rest of their products.
 

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You are better off to go up a weight or 2 in oil than use Lucas. The "stabilizer" only thickens the oil and waters down the original stock's additive package as the Lucas contains no detergents or anti-wear additives. If it was mine, I'd swap out the oil for some 15w40 and motor on. My uncle did that in his 95 Chevy pickup a number of years ago... before my cousin totaled it.

Side note: my dad sells Lucas products but I do not advocate for anything other than the 2 stroke oil and injector cleaner. I use those 2 a lot but won't touch the rest of their products.
^^^ x 2 ^^^
With that amount of miles and distances traveled I'm guessing valve seals and/or rings kapuut.
 

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^^^ x 2 ^^^
With that amount of miles and distances traveled I'm guessing valve seals and/or rings kapuut.
My thinking exactly. You would be better off rebuilding the engine and tranny then use additives and put off the real issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are better off to go up a weight or 2 in oil than use Lucas. The "stabilizer" only thickens the oil and waters down the original stock's additive package as the Lucas contains no detergents or anti-wear additives. If it was mine, I'd swap out the oil for some 15w40 and motor on. My uncle did that in his 95 Chevy pickup a number of years ago... before my cousin totaled it.

Side note: my dad sells Lucas products but I do not advocate for anything other than the 2 stroke oil and injector cleaner. I use those 2 a lot but won't touch the rest of their products.
Interesting comment. I've been going back & forth about the Lucas oil additive Vs. a heavier oil. Actually, I was thinking of using either Shell Rotella 15W 40 or Deer's 15W 40. But then I thought those oils are just for Diesel engines? But in an engine with 215,000K I think I would be ok with either brands. I looked for a 15W40 labeled for gas engines ( my truck is a gas engine-not diesel) but could not find any on the shelf. Do you think I can use the 15W40 diesel stuff OK? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
^^^ x 2 ^^^
With that amount of miles and distances traveled I'm guessing valve seals and/or rings kapuut.
My thinking exactly. You would be better off rebuilding the engine and tranny then use additives and put off the real issue.
Actually, I think it's valve seals- maybe rings too. When I first start it up I can hear "clicking". When the oil starts flowing & she runs about a minute it quiets down & smooth's out. If I do a lot of forward & reverse moves, I will blow out a light puff of very light exhaust & I can smell it as well as see it.

Yes- The real thing to do is to either swap out the engine or rebuild. But the reality is the cost as with most issues. Also I only use this vehicle to make a run to the county dump about twice a month. The other use is for hauling some lumber & landscaping materials on the various home projects I'm working on. Picking up building materials does not happen every day or that often. This truck sometimes sits for two to three weeks or longer before I need to use it for the dump or the lumber yard. So to sink any money into it has no real payback for me. If I had to guess at it a engine swap is probably a $5k deal & a rebuild would not be too far behind that. Thanks for the opinions.
 

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Before doing anything check your crankcase ventilation system for blockage. It may be something as simple as a clogged vacuum port.
 

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You can run most diesel rated oils in a gasoline engine.
I used to run Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil in my 2005 Dodge Ram SRT 10 with a Viper engine because of the additive package.
 

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How much oil does it consume between oil changes or per 1000 miles? If its a quart or less, I wouldn't stress over it. You can go to a thicker oil but really if the oil consumption is not that alarming why bother. It sounds with your use, the truck will last a really long time before it dies. Depending on the engine that is in it, you can find a used one from the junk yard (with less miles or at least in better shape) and have it swapped in for a lot less than your $5k estimate. I would just keep the engine oil topped off and go with it, unless you have to pass some sort of emissions test/inspection.

You can get it diagnosed on whether it is rings or valves. If the problem is in the cylinder heads, then that is a considerably cheaper fix than a complete rebuild. :greentractorride:
 

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Just a suggestion to check the coolant and rad often in addition to the oil issue you are dealing with. I had a '87 F150 that i used similarly....dump runs and material pickup about once per month. I didn't check the rad as often as I should have - overheated the engine on the way back from a dump run and found a really sludged up rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Before doing anything check your crankcase ventilation system for blockage. It may be something as simple as a clogged vacuum port.
Thanks! That's something I did not think about. I will try & trace out that system & check it. Right now I'm not sure of where it is on this engine. I really don't know much about this truck's engine. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How much oil does it consume between oil changes or per 1000 miles? If its a quart or less, I wouldn't stress over it. You can go to a thicker oil but really if the oil consumption is not that alarming why bother. It sounds with your use, the truck will last a really long time before it dies. Depending on the engine that is in it, you can find a used one from the junk yard (with less miles or at least in better shape) and have it swapped in for a lot less than your $5k estimate. I would just keep the engine oil topped off and go with it, unless you have to pass some sort of emissions test/inspection.

You can get it diagnosed on whether it is rings or valves. If the problem is in the cylinder heads, then that is a considerably cheaper fix than a complete rebuild. :greentractorride:
Fortunately, we do not have any mandatory emissions inspections here in SC. So inspections are not of any concern. I need to keep better records on the oil consumption because of the very low miles I put on this truck in a month. I really don't have a clear idea yet on the consumption.

I really like the truck because it's a standard two door cab with a full eight foot bed. Standard cab- 8'bed on the used market is almost as rare as hen's teeth to find. And a NEW standard cab 8 foot bed without any extras runs about $24K. That's insane pricing for me to handle & for a truck that won't even be used 1,000 miles in a year!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a suggestion to check the coolant and rad often in addition to the oil issue you are dealing with. I had a '87 F150 that i used similarly....dump runs and material pickup about once per month. I didn't check the rad as often as I should have - overheated the engine on the way back from a dump run and found a really sludged up rad.
I have a new rad & so far no signs of any problems. The old one was changed because I had a fan that was not working & when they changed the fan out, a rad leak was found so the rad was replaced also. Thanks for the advice to check the rad. I'm going to keep an eye on it to be sure.
 

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Pull the valve covers and see if the drain back holes in the heads are plugged. On an engine that is run like yours, the sludge could have built up and plugged the holes. I once bought a car that had that problem. Fortunately, I caught it before it was too late.

Dave
 

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Interesting comment. I've been going back & forth about the Lucas oil additive Vs. a heavier oil. Actually, I was thinking of using either Shell Rotella 15W 40 or Deer's 15W 40. But then I thought those oils are just for Diesel engines? But in an engine with 215,000K I think I would be ok with either brands. I looked for a 15W40 labeled for gas engines ( my truck is a gas engine-not diesel) but could not find any on the shelf. Do you think I can use the 15W40 diesel stuff OK? Thanks.
Rotella T 15w40 is going to be one of the best you can buy. Diesel oils generally have a better additive package than gas oils since they need to withstand all the ash and soot. However, they won't be energy conserving, i.e. have friction modifiers in them. This isn't an issue for you.


Actually, I think it's valve seals- maybe rings too. When I first start it up I can hear "clicking". When the oil starts flowing & she runs about a minute it quiets down & smooth's out. If I do a lot of forward & reverse moves, I will blow out a light puff of very light exhaust & I can smell it as well as see it.

Yes- The real thing to do is to either swap out the engine or rebuild. But the reality is the cost as with most issues. Also I only use this vehicle to make a run to the county dump about twice a month. The other use is for hauling some lumber & landscaping materials on the various home projects I'm working on. Picking up building materials does not happen every day or that often. This truck sometimes sits for two to three weeks or longer before I need to use it for the dump or the lumber yard. So to sink any money into it has no real payback for me. If I had to guess at it a engine swap is probably a $5k deal & a rebuild would not be too far behind that. Thanks for the opinions.
The clicking noise is probably one of 2 things, either a loose rocker or a weak lifter. The rocker is easy to take care of, just pop off the valve covers and take a look. If its a lifter, the intake will need to be removed. However, I wouldn't worry about it as the spring in the lifter is just for initial start up. The oil provides the pressure needed.

I'm not hearing anything yet that says the engine needs to be rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rotella T 15w40 is going to be one of the best you can buy. Diesel oils generally have a better additive package than gas oils since they need to withstand all the ash and soot. However, they won't be energy conserving, i.e. have friction modifiers in them. This isn't an issue for you.




The clicking noise is probably one of 2 things, either a loose rocker or a weak lifter. The rocker is easy to take care of, just pop off the valve covers and take a look. If its a lifter, the intake will need to be removed. However, I wouldn't worry about it as the spring in the lifter is just for initial start up. The oil provides the pressure needed.

I'm not hearing anything yet that says the engine needs to be rebuilt.
Thanks- All good advice here. I will check out each suggestion as best I can. I've got a really experienced mechanic, but he is sooooooo busy & short on the help That I want to try to go through some of this stuff on my own to narrow it down.

The last laugh is at myself. In the Navy I was an engineman. But I hate working on car engines. I ran & maintained Fairbanks Morse opposed piston diesel engines on board a diesel electric submarine. Technically-they were a heck of a lot easier to diagnose & repair. Easier to pull a 10 inch piston & 150 pound con rod compared to getting at the 1/2 pound part buried under a mass of hoses, pipes, brackets & wires on a stupid gas engine. Just my own 2 cents here. Thanks.
 

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Actually, I think it's valve seals- maybe rings too. When I first start it up I can hear "clicking". When the oil starts flowing & she runs about a minute it quiets down & smooth's out. If I do a lot of forward & reverse moves, I will blow out a light puff of very light exhaust & I can smell it as well as see it.

Yes- The real thing to do is to either swap out the engine or rebuild. But the reality is the cost as with most issues. Also I only use this vehicle to make a run to the county dump about twice a month. The other use is for hauling some lumber & landscaping materials on the various home projects I'm working on. Picking up building materials does not happen every day or that often. This truck sometimes sits for two to three weeks or longer before I need to use it for the dump or the lumber yard. So to sink any money into it has no real payback for me. If I had to guess at it a engine swap is probably a $5k deal & a rebuild would not be too far behind that. Thanks for the opinions.
Take it for a longer run. once warmed fully take her down a long hill off the gas. at the bottom step on it. If you get a puff of blue smoke, it is the seals. Smoke all the time it is the rings. I vote for the higher weight oil too, but if seals it will not help much. they are easier than rings. I would not worry to much about lifters, they pump up in short order.Unless you plan to rebuild this block, run it till it stops. A little oil is nothing to worry about.
 

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As it turns out there's a TSB for oil consumption on many of these Dodge Ram trucks with both V6 & V8 engines. Not sure if this applies to your engine and year though.

The bulletin recommends checking the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) and then inspecting for a leaking internal manifold plenum gasket. Easy fix.

Inspect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Shake the PCV valve to verify that the pintle inside of the PCV valve is free. Replace the PVC if the pintle is not free.
If the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is leaking, an additional vacuum source will be created inside of the engine at the location of the pan gasket leakage.- Engine combustion blow-by gases, oil vapor, and air from the crankcase filter/breather may be drawn past the leaking pan gasket and into the intake manifold. In most cases when this condition occurs, an engine at idle will create the highest vacuum and lowest amount of engine blow-by.

More reading for you here: TSB 09-05-00
 

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Yep^^^ Dealt with that once on a 318/360 magnum engine. Pulling the intake wasn't too bad of a job.
And another vote for Shell Rotella T. I buy it in 5 gallon buckets and run it in everything I own except my Subaru. 4t dirt bikes, 2t dirt bike transmission, V twin street bike and a 6.7 Cummins.
 
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