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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I had a little issue with the trans on my LX176. Long story but I pulled the axle out of the trans by accident trying to remove the stuck rim off the axle. I'm very mechanically inclined and plan to take it apart and fix it. Probably just a C-clip holding the axle in....

Any thing I should worry about or be careful of?
I know someone selling a used one for $175... should I just go this route and fix mine later?
I know someone else with the K62 trans, would that trans fit too if I got it cheaper than the first one?

Thanks!!
 

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Open up the one you took out. See what's wrong with it and go from there. If you need a replacement make sure it's exactly the one you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Ya thats my plan. Was Just wondering if theyre a pita to work on and it is easier just to buy a working used one.


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Thanks. Ya thats my plan. Was Just wondering if theyre a pita to work on and it is easier just to buy a working used one.


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I can't speak to the K61, but the TT K46's in some of the L and D series (as well as many other consumer grade riding mowers) aren't difficult to work on and parts and advise are readily available from tech support at Tuff Torque and online.
 

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Forgot to ask. Did you get the wheel & tire off the other side ok? Also what does the the business end of the of the removed axle look like? Every axle that uses a C clip retainer has a button T style end machined into it. That's what usually brakes off not the C clip. On cars this happens a lot while drag racing. Then the axle, brake drum & wheel are free to separate from the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Forgot to ask. Did you get the wheel & tire off the other side ok? Also what does the the business end of the of the removed axle look like? Every axle that uses a C clip retainer has a button T style end machined into it. That's what usually brakes off not the C clip. On cars this happens a lot while drag racing. Then the axle, brake drum & wheel are free to separate from the housing.
I have not completely removed the pulled out axle from the wheel yet. Long story.... the reason this happened is cause back in 2008 the tire went flat and i tried for the life of me to get the frozen wheel off back then. I never put the C clip back on the axle then (just forgot.. it was rusted frozen anwyas) and it took until this past weekend for the wheel chuck key to un-rust and work it's way out. 7 YEARS LATER! I thought I blew the tranny at first but upon inspection I found the axle shaft just spinning in the wheel hub. So now I had to get the wheel off. I PB blasted the heck out of it and then used a ball joint splitter on the back side of the wheel hub, between the hub and the axle housing. Still wouldn't come off..... So I took a small air grinding wheel and tried to file down the end of the axle shaft a bit since I most likely beet it a bit too hard when trying to get the wheel off back in 2008. After lightly grinding it.... i went at it again with the ball joint tool... it started to come through a bit to the end and then popped... I thought the rim finally let loose but nope the axle shaft pulled out of the trans. It looks all in tact... just seems like the C-Clip broke inside the trans. NOW... I have to get the left side wheel off now. I'm going to be a little more cautions with this one. I found some videos on youtube where a guy used a motorcycle Jack between the rim and the frame and put slight pressure on it.... and then used an Air Hammer Chissel with the pointy bit and jacked it in the center of the whole in the axle shaft itself. I may try this method to get the left side off..... or I'm going to pull the trans with the left side wheel on and use a press to press it out somehow. WheelRemovalIssue1.JPG
WheelRemovalIssue2.JPG
 

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Wow! That's messed up that the axle would spin inside the wheel but not let the wheel slide off. You Must've mushroomed the axle pretty bad last time you try to move it. Try and see if the used trans comes with new wheels & tires. Yours look like they seen better days.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ya i know. It actually didnt look that mushroomed. I knew bangin on it alot back then would be bad so I thought i was a little more gentle. Shes a 93 and ive owned for 11 years. Everythings got to be original. Il see if the guy is selling with the tires n rims. Tho i dont think he is. Im going to start ripping it apart tomorrow after work. Thanks for your input!


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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Just an update.... I got the trans split open... Nothing broken inside.. The C-clip (snap ring) just popped off the axle from me using the ball joint splitter. What a major PITA it was removing the main drive pulley off the main shaft! I lubed it up and was using a bearing puller to try and get it off and it busted the pulley!! Seems like everything on this trans is welded on! I had to result to cutting it off with a cut off wheel... pieces at a time.. Took me 2 hours. Not fun. Looks like that used trans at $175 may have been a good idea HAHA. The parts I'm putting into it are around $120 from the dealer (seals, pulley, filter, chuck keys). The Pulley and chuck keys for the axles are dealer only. This is why I decided to just buy from them. TuffTorq had the stuff cheaper but doesn't sell the pulley or chuck keys. Next task this weekend it to press those axle shafts out of the rims with a press. I may throw a little heat at the rim to help. In the end I WILL have the gratification of rebuilding it myself!! Then I'm selling it and buying a 1023 or 1025... HAHA!
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Discussion Starter #10
LATEST UPDATE:
Using a press to try and press the axles from the rims was only successful on one rim-axle. It completely mushroomed the other rim into itself on the other...... I had to cut off the wheel from the axle with a torch and then cut a slice into the hub with a cutoff wheel and pry it's frozen rusty a$$ off the axle... ! Totally ridiculous!! I got the parts in (basic seals and the main drive pulley) and installed. The trans is all sealed up ready to go back in! Oh I also had to weld the u-bolt trans frame mounts back into the frame cause they decided to pull out when I dropped the trans. This project has been a nightmare but It's just about over! I have put anti-seize on the main pulley shaft and am going to put it all over the axles... when my newused rims come in. See some more pics:

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Condolences

Holy damnation! �� Can of worms and all. Me and a buddy
were gonna make a racing mower out of my LX188. Its got the K61 too.
I attempted removing the drive pulley with a impact... Broke the hex off
the pulley alright! So I can almost feel your pain and frustration.
Almost! Ha! I can't even imagine the levels you've been at.

(Put a 2 1/2" pulley on the tranny... Still 5mph but it'd pull the front wheels
taking off. I'll just keep mowing with the dang thing. )
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Holy damnation! �� Can of worms and all. Me and a buddy
were gonna make a racing mower out of my LX188. Its got the K61 too.
I attempted removing the drive pulley with a impact... Broke the hex off
the pulley alright! So I can almost feel your pain and frustration.
Almost! Ha! I can't even imagine the levels you've been at.

(Put a 2 1/2" pulley on the tranny... Still 5mph but it'd pull the front wheels
taking off. I'll just keep mowing with the dang thing. )
I know right!! I put anti-seize on everything that didn't come off without being cut off. Each year I may attempt to pull the wheels off and re-grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
She's all back together and working mint!!!

- just a note to anyone who tackles this in the future... Bleeding the air through the hydraulic pump can take as long as 15 minutes. I had it up on jack stands and was pumping the Forward reverse pedal back and forth till my arms went numb. I came close to quitting ~10 minutes into it thinking my rebuild had failed! But I kept going and finally the axles started to mover.
- Also anti-sieze the axle and hubs and the main pulley splines.
 

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She's all back together and working mint!!!

- just a note to anyone who tackles this in the future... Bleeding the air through the hydraulic pump can take as long as 15 minutes. I had it up on jack stands and was pumping the Forward reverse pedal back and forth till my arms went numb. I came close to quitting ~10 minutes into it thinking my rebuild had failed! But I kept going and finally the axles started to mover.
- Also anti-sieze the axle and hubs and the main pulley splines.

:bigthumb:
 

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Every time I use anti-seize, I end up looking like the Tin Woodsman.
More silver smeared on me than the intended location. :flag_of_truce:
But it is invaluable stuff regardless of how messy.
 
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