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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ordered a 1/2" x 4" x 66" Cutter Bar to go on my Manure Forks I setup. Since the 2" Box Steel Forks are on 11" centers I am going to weld on the cutter bar across the7- Forks near the back. I will sharpen the cutter bar as sharp as I can before welding it on. I am hoping that the forks will keep the Sage between them and the sharp cutter will cut off the Sage Brush with the Tractor pushing it against the stumps under the heavy bush. We have enough of it around the place it will get used. Another $100.00 into this Manure Fork and it should also do another job. Should be able to lay the Forks flat on the ground and as I go along cut them off pretty flush and the Brush Hog will deal with the rest of it. I planed to also use these forks to find rocks before my Brush Hog does keeping it close to the ground in front of me and cutting off Heavy Brush as needed. 100_0425.jpg This is a picture of the forks with the harden tips I put on and picture a very sharp cutting welded to this on top of the7 forks and the cutting part between them. It did work great on the Manure Mat and a sharp edge would have helped more. I am hoping the sharp edge will work like a Chisel on the stumps and the forks keep it in the cutting slot? 100_0443.jpg Having the Cutter Edge on the tops of the Forks should keep it out of the dirt and rocks dulling the edge faster. Cutting Edge.jpg This will be sharp when welded on the forks.
 

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I like your idea. I have no idea what Sage Brush is like but my first thought is the brush getting pushed over before the cutting edge would cut it?

My thing is jagger bushes which are actually wild blackberry. I just use the tooth bar on my bucket, set the bucket about 2” below grade and level, and go. It pulls the stuff out by the roots that way. Being they get huge - the stems from the root are only about 1” diameter but the thorned leaders will be 6’-8’ in diameter there is no other way to cut them off. If I push at them at ground level they will just push over and not be cut only to pop right back up.

I will also follow behind with my brush hog.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I like your idea. I have no idea what Sage Brush is like but my first thought is the brush getting pushed over before the cutting edge would cut it?

My thing is jagger bushes which are actually wild blackberry. I just use the tooth bar on my bucket, set the bucket about 2” below grade and level, and go. It pulls the stuff out by the roots that way. Being they get huge - the stems from the root are only about 1” diameter but the thorned leaders will be 6’-8’ in diameter there is no other way to cut them off. If I push at them at ground level they will just push over and not be cut only to pop right back up.

I will also follow behind with my brush hog.
This is what I am dealing with in groups out in the pastures we just bought. They can get 5+ feet tall. I will try to Hollow Grind the cutting edge to make it cut better than a chisel tip if I can. These don't bend well the wood is hard it will shatter first. Sagebrush2.jpg Sagebrush.jpg If it was a few a chain would be great but I will be dealing with acres of this on 80 acres spread around. Dislike getting off the tractor to make it work for me. I love the piranha bars just not sure on these roots the stumps are bigger under ground and go deep looking for water. Some who live here go in and use a dozer and rip it all out and start over. Problem is noxious weeds take over on bare disturbed desert land. The cutter will be 2 inches or less from grade.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was going to do a dry run test first and just sharpen one section between forks nice and sharp. I was on the thought it could cut a couple small stumps at once using a moving mass at low speed like a shovel does. But a real big and heavy shovel with HP. Only cutting with a section at a time per Sage Bush. I know going forward I can rip out roots cut and roll hard clay and bust box blade rippers pulling? Hoping it can cut round wood with a sharp strait edge and this is a easy test. I can just sharpen a edge on the forks and see how it does.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would think you need a "V" shaped notch like the Piranha tooth bar,,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw0-1hzt3dA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCaGSIMx1NU

When I have tried brush with a straight blade, the brush just slides,,,:flag_of_truce:
I watched one with the small tractor using one, should use a way bigger tractor. I know I can lower my bucket and cut stuff off clean. Trying to only cut the Sages stump off? Worth a shot if it works. This is the only brush I deal with where I live.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Google "KG blade". What you make will need an angle to shear it off. Is fire not an option?
It will have a angle like a wood chisel has. Boy do I know what a Rome Plow is being a Combat Engineer in Vietnam and a Dozer MOS training. We used them for "Land Clearing" 20th Engineer Group. They can drag Big Chains between them ripping stuff down. Not very "ECO Friendly" nor was the War but got the job done.

No fires for this use only burn piles I live in a Desert Step area prone to Wildfires big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have seen Hydraulic Cutters on the front that are nice. Once I get the Sage gone on the place not much use for the cutting part. Looking into bolting the cutter on depending how hard it is to drill? I have carbide tipped drills if needed??
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I like that one could build something like that one day in my shop? Just need to get my Hydraulics added on to for another controlled use. I saved the link for the pictures. Looked at it again and it would be nice to Pin this "JAW" and Pin the "Hydraulic Cylinder" to my JD Pallet Fork set up. I could weld up a custom flange mount and not have to build the strong frame over again.
 

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I like that one could build something like that one day in my shop? Just need to get my Hydraulics added on to for another controlled use. I saved the link for the pictures. Looked at it again and it would be nice to Pin this "JAW" and Pin the "Hydraulic Cylinder" to my JD Pallet Fork set up. I could weld up a custom flange mount and not have to build the strong frame over again.
I was kind of thinking that would have spurred your mind into coming up with something you could build.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Been welding and it is finished and ready to test. The cutter Bar will now cut you real easy if your not careful putting it on. I figured it should work or I will eat some crow. 100_0875.jpg Here is a couple pictures I took. When I try it on the brush I will have my camera. 100_0886.jpg 100_0890.jpg 100_0895.jpg The Cutter Bar welds soak into it easier then the 1/8" Box Steel so no blow thorough on the welds. Added them up 56 inches holds the bar on. I had just started sharpening it and put a ground angle on the 3/16" square lip and left the factory angle on the other side to gain the edge. Ended up putting it under the forks so it could cut flush right off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well it Passed the Test in Flying Colors except litlle bit of grass under it is Gone!

The grass comes with it but it does not rip up the soil deep to get stuff out and the extra room behind the sharp cutting edge stores the cut stuff. It can push quit a bit of brush being cut off. I am happy with how it works so in the fall I will strip the sage pile it up and burn it in the winter. The snow will pack the dirt again and spring will bring back the grass. The seed will be in the dirt left behind plus roots from it all over and in the dirt. 100_0976.jpg 100_0973.jpg 100_0985.jpg 100_0981.jpg 100_0971.jpg
 
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