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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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Instead of cutting off existing Clevis's, I fabricated brackets. One reason is the rake stays original if I ever want to sell it. The other reason is I pick up more distance between the rear wheels and the rake. The implement out of the box is very tight in regard to the rear wheels. With the quick hitch and brackets, I pick up a little more distance from the rear wheels to the tines for debris build up. In my opinion, it's too close to the rear wheels. I also fabricated a stand that drops out when lifted with the quick hitch. No pins to fool with. I back towards it, lift and hook it it. Stand drops out and I drive away.

The rake is advertised as Cat 1 but it is totally not. The only thing Cat 1 about it is the size of the upper and lower pins. The spacing is not Cat 1. I don't know why they advertise it as Cat 1. It would be so easy for EA to simply weld the lower clevises at the proper spacing and it would be Quick Hitch compatible out of the box, that would probably help thier sales. I wonder why these companies advertise as Cat 1 when things are clearly not.

Happy with the quality of the rake. It's well made and looking forward to using it.

I want to paint it John Deere green without stripping it. I have the JD paint and will take the mill scale off and finish the upper bracket today. Have to round the ends and clean up the welds.

I started another thread on paint over paint and purple cleaner was suggested to etch. Any additional thoughts would be appreciated.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Finished the top bracket. Made tapered spacers on the lathe so the quick hitch hook will find center if hook up is off. Upper bracket can be swung and set to avoid moving quick hitch and match other, "quick hitch" implements.

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What's not cat 1 about it.It looks like you have different ways to put the pins on.
 

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Nice work on the brackets.

I thought about this same project. I wondered about the added weight of the quick hitch. It's only a few more pounds per tine, but in good dirt (I don't have any) it will leave deeper furrows where the rake is used. This could be advantageous in some cases and a problem in others. My ground is rough enough that I have to use the rake in "float mode". I suppose if you have nice flat ground you could set the height on the 3-point and then the furrow depth would be determined by that setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What's not cat 1 about it.It looks like you have different ways to put the pins on.
What's not, "CAT 1" is the implement clevis spacing. As you can see, my brackets now have the clevises true CAT 1 and quick hitch ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Quick home brew cat1-cat3 bushings

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Centered inner cat1-2 bushing than tacked on the inside. Next filled in the hole on the 2-3 bushing. Than finished tacking on the inside. Angle grinder sanded the weld hole than spun on my lathe and polish sanded it. The reason I tacked it first, is so proper current flow when filling the hole. Too lazy to spin and bore one piece cat1-2 bushings. Did the upper link cat1-3 also. A little less slop all around. If you are a hobbyist welder, watch the burn thru, you will ruin bushings.
 

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What's not, "CAT 1" is the implement clevis spacing. As you can see, my brackets now have the clevises true CAT 1 and quick hitch ready.
Cat I refers to the pin size and to a degree pin spacing, but quick hitch compatible is unfortunately a different thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Cat I refers to the pin size and to a degree pin spacing, but quick hitch compatible is unfortunately a different thing.
I was under the impression that pin spacing is also defined in the Cat 1 standard and the I match and my Land Pride quick hitch conform. In other words, if an implement and quick hitch conform to the standard than everything fits. Anyway all my Cat 1 standard implements fit my quick hitch except that pine rake. (Woods rear blade, frontier rake, two different bush hog box blades etc). I looked up the Cat one standard and the lower hooks on my land pride quick hitch conform. All good, having fun welding, boring and machining. Priming and painting the brackets and stand, John Deere green today. Still have to decide how to prep factory paint on rake. JD decals are ordered and on the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Rake is finished

Imatch ready
 

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Imatch ready
that turned out very good:bigthumb: people are gonna look at that, and say-jee-what jd dealer did u buy that implement from:lol: :good2:
 

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Very nice job on the quick hitch conversion. I truly do not understand why EA does not make this quick hitch compatible. Seems like it would cost them very little to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Randy

I will look up and see if I can figure out how to stop rotation Thanks again.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Very nice job on the quick hitch conversion. I truly do not understand why EA does not make this quick hitch compatible. Seems like it would cost them very little to do this.
I agree. Making it quick hitch compatible would probably make it more marketable and increase sales. They probably don't want to retool due to cost. Change in lower lift arm clevis spacing and lowering upper hookup lift pin holes on vertical is all it would take. It would save them metal. Also, they are one of the only acts in town that makes a Pine Needle rake with replaceable tines.
 

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I have emailed their customer service person inquiring if they would consider making one iMatch compatible. I mentioned that folks are doing this already, so there is clearly a market for the product. I really like the rake and think it is what I really need for leaf and small debris clean up, but I am not buying anything not compatible with my iMatch. A landscape rake seems to be overkill (and about $125+ more) for what I am wanting. I use a box blade to maintain the driveway.

I'll let you know what they reply with.
 

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After looking closer at the pictures, it would seem that the lower clevis mounts would only have to be moved slightly outboard to make this iMatch compatible. Appears the upper mount only needs to be modified because the lowers are now a bit forward of the original location. Is this observation correct? The bolt on mods also have the added benefit of moving the rake a little further back, to keep the raked material from building up under the tractors back wheels.

The initial reply from EA regarding why they don't make this iMatch compatible stated that they want the rake as close to the tractor as possible to help the rake work as designed. ????
 

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I just received their reply. They say it will eventually be made iMatch compatible but there is no timeline estimate on that. Keep checking back. Doesn't really help much for lawn clean up this year....
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
After looking closer at the pictures, it would seem that the lower clevis mounts would only have to be moved slightly outboard to make this iMatch compatible. Appears the upper mount only needs to be modified because the lowers are now a bit forward of the original location. Is this observation correct? The bolt on mods also have the added benefit of moving the rake a little further back, to keep the raked material from building up under the tractors back wheels.

The initial reply from EA regarding why they don't make this iMatch compatible stated that they want the rake as close to the tractor as possible to help the rake work as designed. ????
Yes, you are correct. I could have cut the clevises off and welded new ones at the proper spacing and than drilled holes lower in the vertical member. The upper bracket on the vertical member matches the distance of the lower brackets and can be swung up or down to match hook height of quick hitch then set. I went with the brackets instead of altering the rake. Between those brackets and the quick hitch, I gain a little more distance from the tractor which I wanted. Also, adding a stand was a must. A bushing, was the perfect fit for a piece of 3/4 steel pipe. I filled the top of the pipe with a piece of metal and used a flange on the bottom.

Getting all my implements ready for the spring. Currently working on a PS 1001 subsoiler. Fabricating brackets so it mounts higher than normal to accommodate the 1025.
 
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