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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I'm a bit bummed today, as I've had a little used 450 tiller that I purchased for my JD 455 a number of years ago. When I bought my 2720 2 1/2 years ago, my dealer was telling me what attachments I already had would work with the new 2720. f course he told me the tiller was good.

Well, I have only used this tiller a couple of times many years ago on my 455...as I was always so busy in the summer with my job that it didn't make much sense to put in a big garden ...and not be around enough to maintain it.

My dear old farmer friends up the road would stop by and advise me to not bother after one neglected summer. I laughed but took their advice seriously...so it's been many years since I've even uncovered it to inspect. Now that I'm semi-retired, I was looking forward to finally putting in a garden.

Well, it was such a glorious weekend here in Wisconsin...after a depressing cold, wet spring...that I took a look at what I have, hoping to finally connect it with my 2720.
What I soon discovered...it is a Cat 0 set-up...and worse yet. ...the PTO shaft is totally incompatible.

Mind you, my dealer had looked at it and told me to keep it when I was purchasing the new 2720. Well, today I went over to visit them and...sure enough, there is no remedy short of trading it in.

After a few minutes of dumb looks, they finally checked their parts manuals as I showed the male spline to hook to the tractor. After checking multiple pages of parts, I was told this could not be done.

I do think there must be a driveshaft available to convert this machine ...but I suspect it won't come cheap. I also got a blank stare when I was asking about the 3pt. hitch conversion. It looks like all that I need are the larger pins inserted into the larger holes on the hitch. The two lower attaching points are adjustable and I opened them up for correct spacing for my i-match.

The driveshaft appears to have the clutch mounted on the back half toward the tiller with a square spline slipshft...female. It seems to me that a proper front half is all that I would need to fit the PTO on the 2720. They told me...no, the shafts are no longer square....and the parts individually are no longer available.

However, at this point, without the driveshaft solution, I'm ready to put it on Craigs list or somewhere so that some poor 425, 445 or 455 owner may have an opportunity for a little used (5 hours) heavy duty tiller.

Any comforting thoughts?

gary
 

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A cat 0 should hook up to your 2520, but may not fit with the I-match.

There are many better places to get new pot shafts, but I have always been able to find what I needed at tractor supply. Also note that pot shafts can be cut down. You will have to buy a new shaft with both ends to make it work.

I cannot see why it would not work, with a new driveshaft, but I have been wrong many times.
 

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I think you just need a new driveshaft like Brian wrote since the PTO on the 455 was female rather than the standard male stub shaft we are all used to seeing.

Take some pictures for us, and remove the existing shaft and measure the size shaft on the gearbox.

These people may be able to help also: http://www.ptoshafts.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Brian and Kennyd,

I appreciate your insight with this problem. I have spent the better part of the day trying to learn how to downsize and publish some pictures...and I have to move on for now.

When I upload photos I get the large file warning.

So, what I've learned with your help and encouragement...this is doable. The PTO site may have something in a new driveshaft that will make this happen. The first bit of advice I need is what size driveshaft? I've read about the M! to M4 specifications, and I am figuring that I need at least an M4 size to comply with my PTO horsepower...around 22hp? Or do I go by the engine HP? 31 hp.
There is clearly a clutch assembly located at the gearbox side of this tiller.

Unfortunately, there are no Tractor supply stores in my general area. Northern tool is the closest that I know of.

In any event, I need to learn to upload photos...and when I accomplish this, I will post pictures of this mess.
thanks for your help.
Gary
 

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Try to just upload one photo at a time. If they are all to large, the site will timeout trying to resize them and give you that error.
 

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Try to just upload one photo at a time. If they are all to large, the site will timeout trying to resize them and give you that error.
Yes, or set your camera to a smaller resolution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm going to try this again..I took low res photos and they seemed to upload.

!st photo is the 450 unit complete.
2nd and third photos are of the driveshaft on the tiller...notice what I think is the clutch assembly lurking in there.
4th photo is the splined shaft to mate with the 455 tractor female PTO.
I am amazed that I actually see pics here, so bear with me in my education!

I am assuming that I can remove the shaft assembly behind the yoke and the clutch.
If I find a new driveshaft, I again assume that it will clamp on or mate with a spline on the tiller gearbox. Then it is simply a matter of mating the other end with a suitable yoke with th e2720 side.

Of course, it will be necessary to pre-determine the proper length for a new complete assembly...before crunching the spline against 2720 pto when raising the 3 pt. Am I getting there?

Thanks Brian and kennyd!
Gary
 

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You are getting there Gary...

Here are pictures from www.jdparts.com for the 450 tiller for the 4xx series tractors (what you have)
 

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Now, same tiller, but for a 41xx series tractor (older version of your 2720)
 

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Unfortunately, there are no Tractor supply stores in my general area. Northern tool is the closest that I know of.
Gary,

Northern Tool is an option. Do you have a Farm and Fleet close by they can be another source? You are correct TSC stores are far and few between here in Wisconsin.

Looks like Brian and Kenny are getting you pretty close. I am thinking you will need just a wee bit longer shaft than you currently have though. I think you are almost there.
 

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The cheapest way to tackle that, IMHO, would be to leave the slip clutch in place and replace the shaft after that. It might be a harder way of going about it as you need to find another shaft with the same size u-joints and then you might have to press some stuff apart.

As Kenny posted, you could also buy the full shaft and clutch from Deere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
All of this is very helpful.
Randy, I do have a couple of FF's ..and Northern. I will check those out.

The expanded pictures pretty much tell it all. I may have some time today to pull this apart and get down to business.

Brian, as I went to the local dealer initially, they were not helpful. They did finally pull up a schematic showing the 41xx series breakdown...then simply told me "it's not available."
There is another JD dealer about 20 miles away that has appeared more customer friendly. I think it's time to spend my hard earned dollars somewhere else.
It would be so simple if I could find a half shaft for the PTO side that utilizes the same square male tube to mate with the existing tiller shaft. I checked my 62D sliding square dimension but it is smaller than the tiller. The square shaft on the tiller is app. 1 1/8".
Are there any standards or common shafts (or tubes) in the industry? Perhaps it's time to pillage some tractor junkyards.

Gary
 

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There are standards Gary. I think you need to accurately measure what size half-shaft you may need and give the guy's a call at the link above. The only thing to be concerned about in replacing only 1/2 of the shaft is the overlap between the two when it's extended-1/3 overlap is the norm here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, you fellows have been most helpful as I struggle with this problem.

Kennyd, I read your useful parts tutorial and signed up for an account on JD parts. There I located the various possibilities for factory parts for replacing all or part of my 455 drive shaft.

I then returned to my parts guy with printouts of the parts and #'s. He told me that the 40xx doesn't have square tubes or shafts so I couldn't simply order half of the assembly. So then I asked if I could just replace the yoke and bearing cross...bingo, he finally got involved and then quoted me $93 for the yoke and $55 for the bearing.
I am so snake bit from this place that I thought I'd would do more research elsewhere. Are all JD dealers this helpful?:banghead:
gary
 

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Some dealers go above and beyond...some could care less. I still think the best route is NOT through JD.

I am glad you found the tutorial helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Kennyd,

You know, sometimes it's best for me to keep my trap shut....but after a little further searching on-line locally...I found that my dealer has a 450 tiller on the lot for sale.
I decided to take a little spin over there...and what I saw directly out the back door....was a well worn 2320 with this very tiller attached. I was speechless!

All one of these guys had to do was walk 50 feet from the front counter to verify that this could be done. ...or at least, tell me what I needed.

I was so mad...I just left to regroup. I couldn't see everything because the shields covered up the shaft. I might go back and measure the length of the drive shaft to calculate what I might need....but geez louise!

I've dropped north of 50 big ones here...and the lack of interest/knowledge is beyond my comprehension.
Again, it took DT to educate me as to how this all works. I'm beginning to realize why going to this place has been such a bummer over the years. They have been absolutely no help to me at all...until I can open wide my check book.

gary
 

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Wow Gary that really sucks:nunu:

Hopefully the other dealer you mentioned will be more helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I wanted to wrap this thread up with a happy ending.

After tossing and turning all night fretting about my dealer, I decided to just go down there and have a friendly chat with the owner...the guy that sold me my tractor.

I didn't want to get nasty..so I carefully described the events of this week with his parts guys. When I told him about the 2320 with the 450 tiller sitting out back , he jumped up and ran out there to look it over with me. He just shook his head and apologized profusely for the poor treatment I had received.
After looking at JD parts, he told me that he would figured this all out by next week....but that I would need to get this tiller going NOW...so he again took me out to the 2320...and proceeded to remove the driveshaft...told me to just take it and use it until he got one sorted out.

He set me up with proper Cat 1 pins and wished me luck this weekend!

I have mounted the tiller...and am now fitting the driveshaft...and almost done...except I have run out of steam trying to get the final yolk to click all the way on. I've been wrestling with it most of the day...taking everything off and cleaning, lubricating....I just need three hands...2 to pull back on the spring loaded collar...while another jockeying the shaft all the way on. Time for a long break!

Thanks again for all of the advice...and knowledge. I now know that this iws going to work...and perhaps later today I will be tilling me garden.

Gary
 

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Thanks for the follow up Gary-glad it had a happy ending:lol:

If you have never had anything connected to your PTO stub shaft (on the tractor) then it may have paint on it that's causing you problems, quick work with some Emory cloth may help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the follow up Gary-glad it had a happy ending:lol:

If you have never had anything connected to your PTO stub shaft (on the tractor) then it may have paint on it that's causing you problems, quick work with some Emory cloth may help you out.
Thanks kenny! I've just given up with getting the shaft on both shanks properly for today.

I've been wrestling with it for most of the day..had to take a break this afternoon to cool off and hydrate.

I went back at it ...trying to hold the spring collar while giggling the shaft on...and just ran out of steam.
I did notice the paint..and thought initially, that would have to go. But when I just attach a half shaft not connected to anything it does go on to the click..without too much swearing. When I try to mate the whole thing up, it just gets crazy.
I finally did...thought I did...get it all together and motored out to the area I'm tilling. I did a half dozen passes...and it was going well...when the front half of the drive fell off. So, after wrestling more this evening...I had decided to call it a day...with the idea that the paint might be keeping it from sliding.

So, it's great to hear your advice....and it gives me hope for the morning!

The big win..is that it actually works! :dance:
Many thanks!
Gary
 
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