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Does anyone know what the maximum towing capacity is for a 2018 2025R
In my experience searching for this information on other models, its either hard to find or not listed anywhere. You can likely find the drawbar limits for the tractor but not the towing capacity.

What are you trying to tow? Stopping a heavy load is usually the bigger problem for a tractor. We have some experience using an international barge wagon and filling it with around 9k lbs of dirt. Would be happy to try to answer more specific questions.
 

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There is no specified tow rating from the manufacturer. For garden tractors, it's considered the total weight of the machine including the operator. For your 2025R, it clearly can tow quite a bit more than that on flat ground, but on hills you could get out of control pretty easily. If you are just moving trailers around a flat area, I would say experiment with it and see what you are comfortable with. If you have a lot of hills to navigate, I would start with the machine weight, and adjust from there.
 

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My thinking is as long as the load A) doesn't exeed max tongue weight, and B) as long as the total load weight isn't more than that of the tractor.
 

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Looking to move a tandem dump trailer(10k rating) around the yard,with a ton or more of earth in it.
A couple of things I would consider:

1. How much does the dump trailer itself weigh? Being a dump trailer, there will always be some amount of weight on the drawbar, even when empty. (nice for traction).

2. Are you moving it across a flat yard? Can be a scary situation if you are going down hill and unable to stop.

I have no doubt that your tractor could easily pull a dump trailer with only one ton of dirt in it, especially with 4wd. If you are operating on a most flat surface, I wouldn't be overly concerned at all. As long as you aren't exceeding the drawbar limits, Id pull around as much dirt as I could before losing traction.

I can tow the barge wagon (probably 1500 lbs) plus 10k pounds of dirt around on a flat surface no problem with my 4105 (41 hp). Would I go down hill with it loaded? Absolutely not. On level ground, that's a different story.

I will say that we were just recently in the market for a dump trailer and decided on a barge wagon for several reasons.

1. Much cheaper than off road dump trailers
2. Higher axle ratings
3. Hydraulic dump (most dump trailers use a battery, and unless you rig up a power wire from your tractor nothing will be recharging that battery)
4. With 2 axles and 4 tires, it is a stand alone trailer (ie. doesn't have to be hooked to your tractor when you load it, also doesn't put down force on your draw bar)

Here is a quick video of what we use


 

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I’d be considerate of the tongue weight and the axle and tire load ratings for the rear axle-Some simple math and guesstimations should tell you if there is any real issue with just hooking the trailer up.

As others have said, moving and more critically-stopping it are the other real considerations.
 

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Looking to move a tandem dump trailer(10k rating) around the yard,with a ton or more of earth in it.
I recently had a roof redone and the contractor brought a 16K dump trailer to haul away materials. His truck (F350 crew cab) couldn't fit through the maze to get to my back yard so I towed it back there with my 2032R. They tore the old roof off and at the end of the day, I towed that thing back out of there.

The trailer's tires left a couple nice 4" deep ruts in my back lawn and was loaded nearly to the top with old asphalt shingles and plywood. Plus the trailer itself had to weigh in at about 4K to begin with. The tractor had no problem pulling it (all flat land). I never would have stopped it if I had been going down hill but that's another story.

The tractor had zero problems pulling that much weight (low gear) and I had plenty of power left to use. I was only running at ~2000 RPM too. My hitch is mounted to my swinging drawbar and the tongue weight managed to bend that down a good 4".

The point here being, your tractor will tow plenty on flat, solid ground. Probably more than you should try to tow. You'll be able to tow a 10K trailer easily. Stopping... that's where you get into issues.
 

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Looking to move a tandem dump trailer(10k rating) around the yard,with a ton or more of earth in it.
Just throwing this out there as I don't know what you have for equipment.

I have a tandem axle dump trailer that I will pull around with my X585 when it is empty. Clearly it is a much smaller machine. That said, even if I had a bigger machine I still wouldn't pull it. Getting back to I don't know what you have comment, what are you going to do with the ton of dirt once you get there? Also how are you hooking up the trailer to the tractor? Off the 3pt?

The problem I would have is once I got to where I was going, I need the FEL to deal with the dirt or mulch. If the FEL is pulling the trailer, it does me no good. I could disconnect the trailer when I got to where I was going but if while dumping, the weight shifts to the back and tongue goes up in the air you have a problem. Even if you dump before disconnecting the trailer, if the tongue goes up in the air, keep in mind that the 3pt doesn't provide down pressure. It is all gravity of the arms or whatever is on it. Again. Dealing with enough weight you might have a bigger problem.

If it were me, you are dealing with a lot of weight that might damage the grass anyhow. With the equipment I have, I wouldn't bother trying to pull the trailer with the tractor and just leave it hooked up to the truck and drive there. It is safer in the long run and leaves the FEL available to do work.

Who knows, maybe you are just hauling it back there and using a bobcat or something else to deal with the dirt and the ground it perfectly flat. Some dump trailers have bracing for the back so they don't tip up.
 
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I recently had a roof redone and the contractor brought a 16K dump trailer to haul away materials. His truck (F350 crew cab) couldn't fit through the maze to get to my back yard so I towed it back there with my 2032R. They tore the old roof off and at the end of the day, I towed that thing back out of there.

The tractor had zero problems pulling that much weight (low gear) and I had plenty of power left to use. I was only running at ~2000 RPM too. My hitch is mounted to my swinging drawbar and the tongue weight managed to bend that down a good 4".
You have a swinging drawbar on your 2032R? I wouldn't mind seeing a photo of that.
 

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You have a swinging drawbar on your 2032R? I wouldn't mind seeing a photo of that.
:laugh: No, I don't actually. I have the standard drawbar that every 2032R came with (PN M808015). But whenever I just say "drawbar" in a post people tend to assume I'm referring to a drawbar that is connected across the 3pt arms.

I kinda adopted the terminology that Tractor Supply uses to avoid the confusion.

Swinging Drawbar: CountyLine Drawbar, Swinging at Tractor Supply Co.

Cross Drawbar: CountyLine Cross Drawbar, Category 1, 3/4 in. dia. at Tractor Supply Co.

I've been using those terms for the last 2 years on here and you are the 1st to ever comment on it!
 

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:laugh: No, I don't actually. I have the standard drawbar that every 2032R came with (PN M808015). But whenever I just say "drawbar" in a post people tend to assume I'm referring to a drawbar that is connected across the 3pt arms.

I kinda adopted the terminology that Tractor Supply uses to avoid the confusion.

Swinging Drawbar: CountyLine Drawbar, Swinging at Tractor Supply Co.

Cross Drawbar: CountyLine Cross Drawbar, Category 1, 3/4 in. dia. at Tractor Supply Co.

I've been using those terms for the last 2 years on here and you are the 1st to ever comment on it!
The term “swinging drawbar” is what threw me. I had a swinging drawbar on my NAA and it is a bit different than what is on a 2032R.

The TSC component shown in your link is only part of a swinging drawbar assy. To be truly “swinging” there is a specific associated bracket that bolts onto the bottom of the tractor. The whole point of a swinging drawbar is that the end of the bar can swing from side to side and be anchored off center to the side to allow a wagon or implement to be towed offset.

What we have on our SCUT/CUT tractors is a “fixed” drawbar. I only questioned it because I was curious if you had somehow adapted a true swinging drawbar bracket onto your 2032R.
 

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Here is the rest of the kit from TSC.

 
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:laugh: No, I don't actually. I have the standard drawbar that every 2032R came with (PN M808015). But whenever I just say "drawbar" in a post people tend to assume I'm referring to a drawbar that is connected across the 3pt arms.

I kinda adopted the terminology that Tractor Supply uses to avoid the confusion.

Swinging Drawbar: CountyLine Drawbar, Swinging at Tractor Supply Co.

Cross Drawbar: CountyLine Cross Drawbar, Category 1, 3/4 in. dia. at Tractor Supply Co.

I've been using those terms for the last 2 years on here and you are the 1st to ever comment on it!

mentioning your towing of the heavy trailer around....i have had a swinging drawbar give me quite a suprize and jolt towing down a hill on a corner where the trailer was pushing me a bit...can raise your blood pressure in a hurry...LOL but im sure you have probably experienced this
 

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:laugh: No, I don't actually. I have the standard drawbar that every 2032R came with (PN M808015). But whenever I just say "drawbar" in a post people tend to assume I'm referring to a drawbar that is connected across the 3pt arms.

I kinda adopted the terminology that Tractor Supply uses to avoid the confusion.

Swinging Drawbar: CountyLine Drawbar, Swinging at Tractor Supply Co.

Cross Drawbar: CountyLine Cross Drawbar, Category 1, 3/4 in. dia. at Tractor Supply Co.

I've been using those terms for the last 2 years on here and you are the 1st to ever comment on it!
Not gonna lie. I had no idea of what a swinging drawbar was on you 2032. Lol

I also never knew people associated the term “drawbar” with that thing that goes between the 3pt arms either.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I've got my hitch on the back of the BoxBlade.

When things go wrong and they will...the BB makes for an excellant Brake.

I have Zero flat ground so this is a must.

Once a trailer pushes you into a jack knife situation..Its going to get ugly.

Either damage to the rear of tractor or your going to be laying on your side.
 

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I've got my hitch on the back of the BoxBlade.

When things go wrong and they will...the BB makes for an excellant Brake.

I have Zero flat ground so this is a must.

Once a trailer pushes you into a jack knife situation..Its going to get ugly.

Either damage to the rear of tractor or your going to be laying on your side.


i was always of the mind if i got to slidding just drop the bucket.....i like you have a lot of hills on each side of my bottom land........twas winter probably 8" of fresh snow on the ground in a full size 4wd backhoe headed down a steep hill ...started sliding loseing steering....so i dropped the bucket....LOL big asss mistake...was like putting down a snow ski for the frount end and zero steerage actually speeded up ....good thing was the path was narrow and the bucket strong a couple of small trees stopped me....Lesson learned have the edge of the bucket turned down in the snow :laugh:
 

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i was always of the mind if i got to slidding just drop the bucket.....i like you have a lot of hills on each side of my bottom land........twas winter probably 8" of fresh snow on the ground in a full size 4wd backhoe headed down a steep hill ...started sliding loseing steering....so i dropped the bucket....LOL big asss mistake...was like putting down a snow ski for the frount end and zero steerage actually speeded up ....good thing was the path was narrow and the bucket strong a couple of small trees stopped me....Lesson learned have the edge of the bucket turned down in the snow :laugh:

Been there...FEL is front brakes..BB is rear.

In the rare event I ever take mine outta 4x4...I get a quick reminder as soon as I head down the mountain.

I have kinda a 2 stage incline...I can ride out the first one and get my britches reorganized , lock in 4x4 and continue.

The lower section is a straight down 150' section.....No seat belt for me..I'm bailing if shtf. There just is no stopping unless in 4x4. same thing in the RTV as the brakes are in the trans like a tractor:banghead:. It should have had disk on the front as well.

Mini ex I'll wear the belt in some areas
 

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Been there...FEL is front brakes..BB is rear.

In the rare event I ever take mine outta 4x4...I get a quick reminder as soon as I head down the mountain.

I have kinda a 2 stage incline...I can ride out the first one and get my britches reorganized , lock in 4x4 and continue.

The lower section is a straight down 150' section.....No seat belt for me..I'm bailing if shtf. There just is no stopping unless in 4x4. same thing in the RTV as the brakes are in the trans like a tractor:banghead:. It should have had disk on the front as well.

Mini ex I'll wear the belt in some areas

I relate to every word you typed LOL ...flatlanders have no idea LOL....many a seat has butt pucker marks in it....:bigthumb:
 

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