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Hello everyone. I'm brand new to this site and tractors. I have a 4110 that I would like to use to cut my fields. It has a 54" mmm that doesn't work all that well, and I'd like to remove it and replace with a finish mower. I have two questions:

1) it seems that the rockshaft arms will be very low to the ground after I remove the mower and lower the rear PTO. I presume these arms need to be removed, but have not found any directions on how to remove them so they do not catch the ground when I'm using the rear PTO for the finish mower. Please confirm if they should be removed or stay.

2) I've tried cutting with the mmm but it wasn't very good due to length of grass and very slow going. I presume the finish mower will have better cutting ability (less bogging down) due to higher clearance; I like to cut fields at 5" about every 2-3 weeks. Is this assumption correct or is the mmm equally effective?

I sure do appreciate your assistance and patience.
 

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I like RFMs. They are pretty good on a rough field and can help transform a pasture into a more mowable area. I assume you could wire your arms up out of the way. Someone else can weigh in on that.

A rear discharge RFM is well suited to what you have in mind. In very tall grass you can raise the front with the 3 point hitch and take it slow. After many years with the RFM I added some more conventional MMM to select areas. You can never have too many good tools.
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When I had my 4110, I would just use zip-ties to hold the the draft arms up when doing loader work. I would remove them for winter when I had my plow on, it's just two pins in the front and two in the rear. When removed, you do want to keep the rear linkages from turning or the level adjustment will be off when you reinstall it.
 

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Does the MMM do okay with a groomed lawn, where you keep it cut a bit shorter and mow more frequently? If so, and I expect it does if there's nothing mechanically wrong with it, why not get a brush cutter ("bush hog") for the rear, which might be more versatile? If you're cutting the grass only every couple of weeks, and cutting it to 5" when you mow, it's bound to be a good bit taller when you start cutting. A finish mower, whether it's a mid-mount or 3-point mount, is still going to bog down in very tall grass, and at 5", you're not looking for a groomed look anyway (you say it's a field, not a lawn). And with only 17 PTO hp, using a deck as wide as the 54" you have will struggle in tall grass, so I'd recommend no more than a 48" rear mower/brush cutter.
 

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I wouldn’t count on a rear finish mower cutting any better than the mid mount. If the blades are sharp on the mid mount, I’m not sure why you think a rear finish mower would do better.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does the MMM do okay with a groomed lawn, where you keep it cut a bit shorter and mow more frequently? If so, and I expect it does if there's nothing mechanically wrong with it, why not get a brush cutter ("bush hog") for the rear, which might be more versatile? If you're cutting the grass only every couple of weeks, and cutting it to 5" when you mow, it's bound to be a good bit taller when you start cutting. A finish mower, whether it's a mid-mount or 3-point mount, is still going to bog down in very tall grass, and at 5", you're not looking for a groomed look anyway (you say it's a field, not a lawn). And with only 17 PTO hp, using a deck as wide as the 54" you have will struggle in tall grass, so I'd recommend no more than a 48" rear mower/brush cutter.
your points are right on as it relates to the height of the grass and when it works better. to keep it at 5" I'm guessing it is about 10-12" when cut. Are you saying a brush cutter/bush hog will do better, or are both as effective but the brush cutter is more versatile? thanks.
 

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Thank you both.

Kennyd would you mind explaining the rear linkage for me and how to keep it from turning?
It's just two long turnbuckles, the one ends pins to the heavy metal brackets that loop over the 3PH arms.
 

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dirtriderdd- Welcome to GTT and great first query! I would not do anything with the rockshaft arms, as they along with the top-link would be used if you had to raise your rfm deck for any reason, such as crossing small drainages or due to other uneven areas of the ground that you're mowing. I would also suggest adjusting deck height with the caster wheels and not with the rockshaft arm height alone. Read and heed the finishing mower manual also.

Keep your blades sharp, mow really dry grass at the recommended rpm. You may have to make several passes, with and against the grain of the grass, to get all of the grass mowed and dispersed,

Brian
 

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I'm thinking the FM will do better due to more clearance and higher mowing height vs. the MMM.
your points are right on as it relates to the height of the grass and when it works better. to keep it at 5" I'm guessing it is about 10-12" when cut. Are you saying a brush cutter/bush hog will do better, or are both as effective but the brush cutter is more versatile? thanks.
It really all depends on whether you want a groomed look. If you want it to look more like an extended lawn, then of course go with a finish mower, if all you want is to control the height of the grass, a brush cutter will work fine, but as dodgeman said, it won't look as good. He also mentioned a flail mower, which does a great job on tall grass, but they tend to get expensive.

In any case, brush cutter or finish mower, for it to look better, you'll need to mow it more frequently than every few weeks. You might be able to cut it a little taller with a rear mower as opposed to your mid-mount mower, but it won't do any better if the grass is very tall when you cut it unless you go very slow. I can get my MMM to cut around 4-1/2 inches tall if I don't lower it, and that's fairly high. I find that the taller you cut the grass, the slower you have to go, and the sharper your blades need to be to get a clean cut. Otherwise, you tend to just bend the grass over and not as much gets cut cleanly. It's one reason a brush cutter doesn't do as clean a job, the blades aren't going as fast as a finish mower's do and people tend to go faster when using one, as the prime purpose is just to clear the ground rather than have a nicely finished appearance. A brush cutter can do a decent job in shorter grass or at slower speeds, but the quality of the cut of a finish mower depends on the same things.
 

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Cloud Plant Sky Nature Leaf
Northwest Oregon right on the coast if is rough as can be. This is a picture from Season 15 with the RFM. I mow about every two weeks with the RFM. It’s often damp or wet. I can get about 17 days max between late April and late June. The key is rear discharge. My 54” X540 is a whole different world because of side discharge.
 

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More is better.
Tire Wheel Sky Cloud Vehicle
Tire Sky Cloud Wheel Plant
 
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