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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Due to my short sightedness and lack of time when my 1025R package was delivered last month, my rototiller is still loaded at the front of my Big Tex 18' trailer, with the box blade immediately behind it.

I installed Ken's bolt-on hooks on the bucket and have contemplated trying to lift them off with straps but haven't convinced myself that it would work due to weight on the front end without a ballast box or if it would even lift high enough to clear the side rails.

A normal person who buys an 18' trailer would have a vehicle big enough to hook up to the hitch and safely drive the 1025R up on the trailer to do so. I'm currently in need of a vehicle that will tow a trailer that size, and I don't trust my 2001 Wrangler to keep the tongue on the bumper hitch when I drive up on the trailer.

The self appointed chairwoman of the implement appropriation committee questioned why I wanted a trailer that big before I bought HER a tractor for Valentine's Day. I gave her a clever and convincing answer that worked at the time. Six weeks later she wonders why we have a trailer in the driveway with a rototiller on it instead of tilling up a garden plot.

Suggestions, ideas, laughter or sarcasm? I'm new here but I can take it :nunu:
 

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No way I would attempt to lift that off without any ballast on the back side. It'll be very tipsy.

If you don't want to use your Jeep...

Do you have wood blocking or other blocking of some kind and wheel chocks where you could keep the trailer in place and stabilized on each end?

A buddy with a truck that could hook up for 30 minutes?
 

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Hook the trailer to the Jeep. Block up the other end of the trailer so it won’t move. Drive up on the trailer and hook implements to the 3-point hitch. Drive off trailer.
^^^ This. If you have any questions, post up some pics of bumper hitch. I know my 18' really wants to bring up the back end of my Cherokee, but once I get past a certain point it comes back down. Ain't floated away or flipped over yet!
 

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^^^ This. If you have any questions, post up some pics of bumper hitch. I know my 18' really wants to bring up the back end of my Cherokee, but once I get past a certain point it comes back down. Ain't floated away or flipped over yet!
First go buy a blast box, then do as above.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Which way are the implements facing? I'd do as Coal train suggests, but back on and pick them up with the 3pt. You should be able to at least spin the BB around and put it on the 3pt as ballast before you try to lift the tiller. Put the Jeep in 4x4 and set the brake, too.

If lifting the tiller still seems too sketchy to carry off the trailer, I'd lift it and turn it 90°, and lower it onto a pallet. Then use pallet forks to get it off the trailer. If you don't have forks, buy some. You'll thank me.
 

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Hook the trailer up to the jeep. Come with the loader at a 90 degree angle from the side of the trailer, try to pick up the box blade. If the trailer lifts it off the deck, even one or two inches you are golden. Set the parking brake on the tractor with the box blade hanging a little. Pull the jeep and trailer forward, lower the loader/box blade to the ground . Connect the box blade to the tractor, repeat at 90 degrees except lifting the tiller, except now with the box blade for ballast. By moving the jeep/trailer instead of the tractor there won't be an opportunity for movement/bouncing/shifting.
 

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Hook the trailer up to the jeep. Come with the loader at a 90 degree angle from the side of the trailer, try to pick up the box blade. If the trailer lifts it off the deck, even one or two inches you are golden. Set the parking brake on the tractor with the box blade hanging a little. Pull the jeep and trailer forward, lower the loader/box blade to the ground . Connect the box blade to the tractor, repeat at 90 degrees except lifting the tiller, except now with the box blade for ballast. By moving the jeep/trailer instead of the tractor there won't be an opportunity for movement/bouncing/shifting.
Boy I have been there a few times but used it the other way. I lifted stuff up then drove the trailer under it cause I did not want swing or anything to go wrong with a awkward load.
 

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What ramps do you have on the Big Tex - knee or mega?

Do you have any implement avaiable that you could hang on the 3 point for ballast? Do you have a MMM installed? I've lifted my Frontier 5 foot box blade with my pallet forks with nothing on the tractor but the empty imatch hitch and the 60D MMM installed. I was able to get it up to 3 feet to a storage platform.

I'd put on the mower, if you have one, and give lifting one of your implements on the trailer a try. You'll either be able to move it or you'll find out that you can't. Just start slowly going up a few inches, and if the back tractor wheels start to lift, put it back down and think about another method.

I'd even consider using a chain to slide the implements off down the ramps to the ground.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of your replies. Kinda feeling like a dunce for having tunnel vision on a simple problem.

I have a rotary cutter that I could use for rear ballast. I misspoke about the Jeep, it has a receiver hitch but I need to stop by Tractor Supply for a hitch with a ball that fits the trailer.

As for ramps, I have to say I don't know what style they are. Just know there is a stowage box for each on the sides.

Both the tiller and BB are facing forward. My buck-fifty backside can move the BB (sorta...) but the tiller is tougher than I will ever be.

I will post again when I get them off the trailer or get in trouble. I dread moving the trailer since it was parked in pretty tight quarters. I have a tough enough time backing up my 9cf wagon with my 48" Husky riding mower. LOL
 

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If you don't have forks, buy some. You'll thank me.
I agree.

When the salesman delivered my 1025r, he brought along a set of pallet Forks to help unload the trailer. But he knew that once I saw how useful they were he would have a sale because he had a sales order for it in his back pocket. I use those things a lot. They're great for carrying brush to the burn pile and moving implements around.

When I have something large, heavy and awkward in the back of my pickup truck, I usually lift it with my Forks then drive the truck out from under it. It is safer because then I can lower the forks back down closer to the ground before I move the tractor with the heavy payload on the front end.
 

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What ramps do you have on the Big Tex - knee or mega?

Do you have any implement avaiable that you could hang on the 3 point for ballast? Do you have a MMM installed? I've lifted my Frontier 5 foot box blade with my pallet forks with nothing on the tractor but the empty imatch hitch and the 60D MMM installed. I was able to get it up to 3 feet to a storage platform.

I'd put on the mower, if you have one, and give lifting one of your implements on the trailer a try. You'll either be able to move it or you'll find out that you can't. Just start slowly going up a few inches, and if the back tractor wheels start to lift, put it back down and think about another method.

I'd even consider using a chain to slide the implements off down the ramps to the ground.
If I have my mower deck on I can't get on my trailer. Well, I saw it was gonna scrape and quit messing with it. Might just be a "grit your teeth and bear it" thing.

Also, ya, using a chain to pull stuff to the rear of the trailer is a good idea.
 
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What ramps do you have on the Big Tex - knee or mega?

Do you have any implement avaiable that you could hang on the 3 point for ballast? Do you have a MMM installed? I've lifted my Frontier 5 foot box blade with my pallet forks with nothing on the tractor but the empty imatch hitch and the 60D MMM installed. I was able to get it up to 3 feet to a storage platform.

I'd put on the mower, if you have one, and give lifting one of your implements on the trailer a try. You'll either be able to move it or you'll find out that you can't. Just start slowly going up a few inches, and if the back tractor wheels start to lift, put it back down and think about another method.

I'd even consider using a chain to slide the implements off down the ramps to the ground.
Man, this is a very bad idea. Sorry but sometimes we just have to point out dangerous and reckless ideas. Please, rws71 do not attempt to do this. This is not an option.
 

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Due to my short sightedness and lack of time when my 1025R package was delivered last month, my rototiller is still loaded at the front of my Big Tex 18' trailer, with the box blade immediately behind it.

I installed Ken's bolt-on hooks on the bucket and have contemplated trying to lift them off with straps but haven't convinced myself that it would work due to weight on the front end without a ballast box or if it would even lift high enough to clear the side rails.

A normal person who buys an 18' trailer would have a vehicle big enough to hook up to the hitch and safely drive the 1025R up on the trailer to do so. I'm currently in need of a vehicle that will tow a trailer that size, and I don't trust my 2001 Wrangler to keep the tongue on the bumper hitch when I drive up on the trailer.

The self appointed chairwoman of the implement appropriation committee questioned why I wanted a trailer that big before I bought HER a tractor for Valentine's Day. I gave her a clever and convincing answer that worked at the time. Six weeks later she wonders why we have a trailer in the driveway with a rototiller on it instead of tilling up a garden plot.

Suggestions, ideas, laughter or sarcasm? I'm new here but I can take it :nunu:
If it were me, I would place some heavy duty floor jack stands under the rear of the trailer once the trailer ramp or lift gate is down in the load and unload position. This will prevent the rear of the trailer from dropping from the weight of the tractor when you drive it (back it) on the trailer. I would place the jack stands on the hard driveway surface and if the driveway is not concrete, I would place either 2 x 12 pieces or something to put the jack stands on to prevent them sinking into the asphalt or other than concrete surface.

Once you have the trailer secured and I would also place jack stands under the front so it's not just the trailer tongue jack holding the weight. Two pair of 6 ton Jack Stands would likely cost you $40 per pair or $80. Also you will find lots of other SAFE uses for these stands. Just make sure to measure the height you need for the jack stands to properly support the trailer front and rear.

Also, don't skimp on these. Go with more weight limit than you will ever need, verses saving a few dollars and risking damage or injury.
Harbor Freight is known to over rate and under build so over buy and under load these and you should be OK......

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-steel-jack-stands-62393.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html

Properly block the wheels with wheel chocks. Again, DO NOT SKIMP. I would use a MINIMUM of 4 wheel chocks, 2 on each side of the trailer. Ideally, put a pair in each axle on each side, or use these wheel chocks on one axle on each side and block the wheels with something else on the other axle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-rubber-wheel-chock-69853.html


DO NOT LIFT WITHOUT REAR BALLAST. It's dangerous and potentially destructive to your equipment and life.

It's not just the danger of the rear of the tractor lifting, it's the load it places all on the front axle of the tractor, which will likely exceed it's limits and could damage the axle.

Regarding the Wrangler, I don't consider the Wrangler heavy enough to properly secure it, even as a temporary anchor. Bottom line, if you wouldn't and couldn't safely tow the trailer with the Wrangler, which you can't when it's loaded with your equipment, then don't use the Wrangler to attempt to hold the tongue down when you are running the tractor on the back of the trailer.

It's not the right way to do this in my opinion. Your Wrangler has a 2,000 towing capacity so using it to secure the trailer even for unloading it is unwise in my opinion. Sure you are using it as an "anchor" but it's not heavy duty enough so don't attempt it or trust it.

FYI, your Wrangler can't tow the EMPTY trailer and be within it's towing limits. So that tells you all you need to know........

Once you have the trailer properly supported, which you can do with jack stands and WHEEL CHOCKS to prevent movement, you can back the tractor on the trailer and unload the box blade and then the tiller. Easy Peasy.......Hopefully you have the I Match system which will make loading and unloading as easy as it gets. If not, add it to your shopping list.

You need to buy some pallet forks and a ballast box. Not only will you use both extensively, they are the ONLY safe way to properly lift things.

I would NOT drag either the box blade and especially the tiller across the trailer deck (or anything for that matter). You risk damaging the tiller tines and scratching the hell out of everything. You could bend tiller tines or the scarifiers on the box blade. I don't like dragging ANYTHING unless it my last resort and I have NO choice. There is always a choice when you plan ahead.......

Good luck. This is a safe and easy approach to reaching your goals. If necessary, secure the trailer tongue with a floor jack in addition to the jack stands if you need to lift the front of the trailer higher to give you a good angle for the beaver tail or for other clearance issues. Just don't use ANY jack as the sole source of support for safety reasons.
 

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Regarding the Wrangler, I don't consider the Wrangler heavy enough to properly secure it, even as a temporary anchor. Bottom line, if you wouldn't and couldn't safely tow the trailer with the Wrangler, which you can't when it's loaded with your equipment, then don't use the Wrangler to attempt to hold the tongue down when you are running the tractor on the back of the trailer.

It's not the right way to do this in my opinion. Your Wrangler has a 2,000 towing capacity so using it to secure the trailer even for unloading it is unwise in my opinion. Sure you are using it as an "anchor" but it's not heavy duty enough so don't attempt it or trust it.
The 2000 pound towing capacity on the Wrangler has nothing to do with how "heavy duty" it is. It has everything to do with the short wheel base of the Wrangler.

The '97 - '06 Wrangler TJ has a towing capacity of 2000 pounds. IIRC, the '04 - '06 Wrangler LJ (Unlimited) has a towing capacity of 3000 pounds. The only difference is that the LJ is about 14" longer in the wheelbase. Other than that, everything is pretty much the same. One could argue that the disk brakes on the rear Dana 44 axle on the LJ vs. the drum brakes on the Dana 35 on most TJ's is also a contributing factor, but that just goes back to the point that it's not a "heavy duty" issue, it's a "stopping power" issue on the TJ. A heavier trailer is more likely to cause handling problems in the shorter wheelbase TJ than the longer wheelbase LJ.

Without seeing the OP's driveway, etc., I'd tend to agree with Coaltrain - hook the trailer up the Wrangler, chock the wheels on the Wrangler and the trailer, put some jackstands under the rear of the trailer and give it a try. This is, of course, after the OP has the proper sized ball in the hitch to properly hook the trailer on to it. He's going to need to get a new ball anyway once he has his new tow vehicle picked out.

Of course, if it were me - I would have probably dropped the ramps on the trailer and just driven up on it to unload my stuff!! :laugh: All the better if the driveway has a good slope to it! :laugh: Let's put that tractor to use!! :good2:
 

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Thanks for all of your replies. Kinda feeling like a dunce for having tunnel vision on a simple problem.

I have a rotary cutter that I could use for rear ballast. I misspoke about the Jeep, it has a receiver hitch but I need to stop by Tractor Supply for a hitch with a ball that fits the trailer.

As for ramps, I have to say I don't know what style they are. Just know there is a stowage box for each on the sides.

Both the tiller and BB are facing forward. My buck-fifty backside can move the BB (sorta...) but the tiller is tougher than I will ever be.

I will post again when I get them off the trailer or get in trouble. I dread moving the trailer since it was parked in pretty tight quarters. I have a tough enough time backing up my 9cf wagon with my 48" Husky riding mower. LOL
I have 2 suggestions:
1. Make sure to have someone there to "hold your beer"
2. Make sure you have someone available and getting the whole thing on video, no matter what method you use for your project.

Then post the video here. I just want to make sure that we can all learn from your experience. :lol:
 

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Go in your Jeep to a local truck dealer and "test drive" a truck. Take it home, hook it up, get your crap off the trailer and drive truck back to the dealer. Maybe call a friend with a truck:dunno: Just seems like a silly problem to have with so many different solutions already stated in this thread.
 
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