I received my 1026R 10 days ago. I had a 60D MM deck, 53" FEL and 48" box blade installed. I had the salesperson disconnect the deck and try to reconnect it. We could not get the auto connect to work. I had their head mechanic stop by and work on it. We could not figure it out. What is the experience any 1026R owners are having with the 60D MM deck? I am interested in a picture of you deck unhooked. Especially the front connecting arms. I appreciate your help.
MM Deck issues on my 1026R.........Help needed !!!
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Really?
Joe,
I hope that is not so. I appreciate the return response. Any 1026owners out there?
Joe,
I hope that is not so. I appreciate the return response. Any 1026owners out there?
The auto-connect decks require some extra attention by the dealer to get them to connect properly. There are too many variables to expect the deck to work properly right out of the crate. The first one we set up at the dealership required several hours of adjusting/tweaking and even had to order a new latch rod since original was not quite right. Since our setup guy now knows what to look for, he can adjust/tweak much quicker now. They are working very well after some patient adjusting. I have not heard of kit to make them manual hook-up. Hopefully after deere makes a few more, they can get their tolerances a little closer so they work better out of the crate. This is not all that unusual for new model design. Keep after your dealer to get it right for you.
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Got mine today
My 1026r was delivered today and I got the 60" autoconnect also. I haven't had any problem taking it off. The first time I did it, I forgot to release the deck wheel locks on the wheel pins. Once I releases them, it came right off. The only other thing I did was release the lock on the discharge side of the deck located on the rest of the deck. I've put it on twice and haven't had any problems yet.
My 1026r was delivered today and I got the 60" autoconnect also. I haven't had any problem taking it off. The first time I did it, I forgot to release the deck wheel locks on the wheel pins. Once I releases them, it came right off. The only other thing I did was release the lock on the discharge side of the deck located on the rest of the deck. I've put it on twice and haven't had any problems yet.
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Got mine today
My 1026r was delivered today and I got the 60" autoconnect also. I haven't had any problem taking it off. The first time I did it, I forgot to release the deck wheel locks on the wheel pins. Once I releases them, it came right off. The only other thing I did was release the lock on the discharge side of the deck located on the rest of the deck. I've put it twice and haven't had any problems yet. (rest should be rear, my phone won't let me change it).
My 1026r was delivered today and I got the 60" autoconnect also. I haven't had any problem taking it off. The first time I did it, I forgot to release the deck wheel locks on the wheel pins. Once I releases them, it came right off. The only other thing I did was release the lock on the discharge side of the deck located on the rest of the deck. I've put it twice and haven't had any problems yet. (rest should be rear, my phone won't let me change it).
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I'll try to take some pics soon and send them.
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109 Posts
I have the 60" autoconnect on my 1023. The only thing that ever gives me any trouble on occasion is the locking release bar to disconnect from the lifting arms. Other than that, it has been on and off and cutting like a dream.
I was not aware of the dealers having trouble setting them up, but as stated above, keep after them and they'll get it right for you. I would not consider the "kit" to take it off manually. This is a sweet set up, and once your dealer gets it adjusted, you will love it! :good2:
I was not aware of the dealers having trouble setting them up, but as stated above, keep after them and they'll get it right for you. I would not consider the "kit" to take it off manually. This is a sweet set up, and once your dealer gets it adjusted, you will love it! :good2:
Bent bolt on deck
On the front of my deck where the attaching arms are located, a bolt holds the arm up to assist in auto connect. The bolt is bent after 5o yds of cutting. a major wear point on the deck. I'm heading to the dealer.
On the front of my deck where the attaching arms are located, a bolt holds the arm up to assist in auto connect. The bolt is bent after 5o yds of cutting. a major wear point on the deck. I'm heading to the dealer.
please elaborate
we are having a heck of a time getting one to drive over and connect correctly. the auto shaft lines up good but the flip bar with spring (new one because original was bent in shipping) wont latch behind pins. :nunu:
we are having a heck of a time getting one to drive over and connect correctly. the auto shaft lines up good but the flip bar with spring (new one because original was bent in shipping) wont latch behind pins. :nunu:
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166 Posts
Replace with higher gauge spring
Just replace the spring on the latch bar with heavier gauge..... works like a charm....
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35 Posts
Also, something else you can do to make it latch easier is remove the two bolts on the latch, one at each end of the latch bar, and apply a little grease on the outside of the spacer sleeves the bolts go so the sleeves will rotate or turn without touching metal to metal. This fixed mine and I did'nt have to change out the spring.
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I wish someone would put some pictures up here of this mechanism and how it is having trouble since this is a new design/product.
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Now that is a great idea. :good2: Wish I had thought of that. :mocking:
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Videos and pictures in this post: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...-60D-on-1026R-YouTube-Videos&highlight=spring
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Hi Guys
Thought I'd chime in on the auto-connect 60D. I have it on my 1026R and with a small modification to the locking bar and spring mechanism, it takes about 30 seconds to connect and go! Driving over the deck is the longest portion of the exercise.
I noticed several members commented on the spring for the lock mechanism not being strong enough to actuate. Initially mine was too until I took the locking rod assembly off and noticed the dimensions are not quite right. With a couple well spaced washers to "unload" the compression being induced, it works perfect!
I also have experimented with tolerance for line up during hookup and found you can be considerably off and it will still go on fine. At least 3/4" either side as the chine on the lock slides will position for you. Having the PTO selected to rear also seems to help!
Cheers
Thought I'd chime in on the auto-connect 60D. I have it on my 1026R and with a small modification to the locking bar and spring mechanism, it takes about 30 seconds to connect and go! Driving over the deck is the longest portion of the exercise.
I noticed several members commented on the spring for the lock mechanism not being strong enough to actuate. Initially mine was too until I took the locking rod assembly off and noticed the dimensions are not quite right. With a couple well spaced washers to "unload" the compression being induced, it works perfect!
I also have experimented with tolerance for line up during hookup and found you can be considerably off and it will still go on fine. At least 3/4" either side as the chine on the lock slides will position for you. Having the PTO selected to rear also seems to help!
Cheers
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162 Posts
Further to the auto-connect issues, I took a few pic's to show what I expect is similar to what everyone reported.
The actual lock rod which spans the two lock positions is too wide....and with the original install of only one washer on inboard side of attach on either side, when the nut is installed, it forces the lock pin arms to torque off 90 degrees and fowl. The nut actually starts to lock the arm due friction. By replacing the original washer (shown being held) with a heavier washer and then adding an additional washer to the outer surface as well, when the nut is installed, it compress's against the bushing inside the arm pivot instead of the actual arm. Original spring is perfect when the friction is reduced.
Hope this helps.....
The actual lock rod which spans the two lock positions is too wide....and with the original install of only one washer on inboard side of attach on either side, when the nut is installed, it forces the lock pin arms to torque off 90 degrees and fowl. The nut actually starts to lock the arm due friction. By replacing the original washer (shown being held) with a heavier washer and then adding an additional washer to the outer surface as well, when the nut is installed, it compress's against the bushing inside the arm pivot instead of the actual arm. Original spring is perfect when the friction is reduced.
Hope this helps.....
Attachments
I took delivery of my new 1026R with 54D deck last month and had no need for the deck to be on so I took it off. As luck would have it, spring came early and I needed to mow my grass this weekend. Of course the deck would not autoconnect and I had to manually push the latch bar down to engage. Even though these have been in production for awhile, Deere has not changed their design to incoporate what you "Pioneers" did with the addition of the extra washers. Like the others, I found that with the additional washer the stronger spring is not required. I have included a drawing from the parts manual illustrating what has been changed, which goes along with JRS1959's pictures above.
The existing washers (piece 9) are 10.5 ID x 18 OD x 1.6 thick mm, and I substituted 3/8" SAE in their place. The existing bolts (piece 1) are 10mm OD and a 3/8" SAE washer is 13/32" (10.31875mm) ID. Thanks to this forum and its great members, I now have a deck that connects properly. :yahoo:
The existing washers (piece 9) are 10.5 ID x 18 OD x 1.6 thick mm, and I substituted 3/8" SAE in their place. The existing bolts (piece 1) are 10mm OD and a 3/8" SAE washer is 13/32" (10.31875mm) ID. Thanks to this forum and its great members, I now have a deck that connects properly. :yahoo:
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Thanks for the update and your PDF drawing Mrb94.:thumbup1gif: This will further help other owners with this issue.
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