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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Apologies if I've missed a prior thread, but can these be rebuilt? I've less than 200 hrs on my deck, and will be on my 3rd gearbox. First box melted down because I'm good at breaking things. It had the wobbly input shaft/seal problem and I didn't know it had run dry. I'm honestly surprised it didn't melt the case, I think it took 3 days to cool off :).
Second box, (current), I've been more careful with, checking fluid start/end of the season, (500hr replacement iirc, and this one has less than 100hrs). Earlier this spring, the x-bearing in the mid-shaft gave up, and tore up the yoke as well. 320 dollars lighter, thinking I've learned (another) lesson, I'd started idling down to engage the PTO, and then running it back up, per the manual, and go easier on the equipment. Less than 15hrs since I'd last checked the gear box fluid level, I hear the death rattle. Like all good operators, I shut everything down... then fired everything back up, engaged the PTO and ran the throttle up; grinding again. So I was thinking maybe spindle, because I knew the gear oil was good (and I may have not got enough grease into the last spindle before I ran out...meh). I drive off the deck, pull the belt off, and turn the spindles, all felt okay. The tensioner seemed a little cranky, but not horrible. I spun the gearbox. It moved fine, but felt a tic gravelly, maybe. I find the right allen key, and pull the plug. What I saw would look great as paint on a 68 Fastback Mustang, nice metal flake. I'm hoping/assuming it's bits of bearing and not the gears themselves that I've got in a nice oil suspension, and I'm hoping it can be rebuilt, but I can't find a kit.
I'd like to get a new box, but I'm not sure if I'm finding the right part, found one for ~360 and another for ~780. Then I'd like to get the parts to rebuild the current one so I've got a spare. Any help would be appreciated in finding the right gearbox, and the rebuild parts. Thank you.
 

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JDparts is not showing all parts for a rebuild, only seals, snap rings and bearings. No gears , shims, or even a bare case.
 
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What tractor do you have?

A few weeks ago another member was looking for the cover gasket for his gearbox. If I recall it was a 1025R. It's not available and suggested he make his own. I spent some time trying to find any information about these gearboxes that I could. Long story short, all I found was it's referred to as a RAD-20B. The RAD stands for 'right angle drive'. I think 20 might refer to the maximum horsepower the gearbox is rated for. The B might be a revision.

This picture is for a 2013 1025R 60D MMM. As Z5 mentioned, only the seals, bearings, cover bolts, plug and vent are showing part numbers. Nothing else has part numbers, except the entire gearbox. Currently there is only one gearbox part number listed for the 2013 1025R, for either the 54D or 60D. AUC10298 for $360.57, though there are older numbers that it supercedes. The listing for the gearbox says it includes CH15002, which I believe is the large 'freezeplug' type plug opposite the input shaft.

During my internet search, I came across a listing for an aftermarket gearbox. I don't remember the price...seems it was $200-$275 ish. No where could I find a manufacturer name for who makes them for Deere. I'm sure Deere has a contract with them that they are not to sell or provide any info to anyone else, so I gave up.

Hope this helps. If you have something besides a 1025, please post back.

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I have a 1026r. I've pulled the box, and drained it, doesn't look as bad as I thought. Is it odd that the oil is separated like this? (I did get more oil out of it, that's just part way drained) I ran a magnet and got much less metal than I thought I would. I'm thinking I'll refill it and have a go. I'm open to any/all thoughts. When I bought the last one, it was over 700 bucks, but came complete with the belt pulley too.
I might still have the old cover, if I didn't destroy it tearing the old box apart.
I also found the part number, MIA12567=670bucks, but replaced by AUC10298 for 361 at GPS. Wish I'd broken the first one later and saved 300 clams.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fixed and new question

All that work for the easy things. It was a loose blade! At least I've got the 500 hr oil change out of the way.
New question, are the blades not keyed in any way to keep them from spinning free? I added a crush washer to try and get more pressure against the blade, but I don't think that's gonna work.
 

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They are not keyed, just held by pressure. They use a Belleville washer, with the cupped side toward the spindle. The 60D calls for 90 lbs-ft for torque.
Don't use a crush washer, can't see it holding long once up to speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They are not keyed, just held by pressure. They use a Belleville washer, with the cupped side toward the spindle. The 60D calls for 90 lbs-ft for torque.
Don't use a crush washer, can't see it holding long once up to speed.

Thank you kyle. I had tightened it to spec, and the blade still slipped. The crush washer gives it just a little more bite. I'll look to order a new washer, (or multiples) as my local red,white, and black store doesn't carry them, (nor lowe's or HD, hmph). I didn't know what they were called, that's why I like this joint; I learn something every time I log on.
 

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It was slipping with the original washer? Odd. But hey, if you got it to work for now.

The parts catalog list the washer as # M147138. $9.76. (Gasp....choke...cough). They're pretty proud of them for that price.
 

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There are aftermarket blades sold for the 60" Deere mowers which required an additional washer to make sure the blades are tight. Oregon sold some for awhile along with other companies and without the extra washer, it was not possible to get the blades snugged down correctly.

Personally, I would add another washer under the blades, but make sure to do the exact same thing to all three blades so their interaction when the blades meet one another remains consistent. So either put the additional washer under the blade and between the "cup" and the back side of the blade or under the OEM washer. Just make sure to be consistent.........

Also, there have been very few issues with the gear boxes on these decks, so hopefully, that chapter in your service and repair issues is closed.......

You are using the gear oil in the gear box, so the viscosity is correct? The oil in the drain pan looked pretty "thin" but pictures can be deceiving.....
 
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