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We were leaving on a trip to visit family for a couple of weeks, and I really needed to mow. It snowed both days that I had to do it, and I needed to keep the snow removal gear on the tractor. When we returned, it was a jungle. I got the tractor converted from snow removal to mowing and planned to mow the next morning. I checked out the mowing deck and everything was working perfectly.

The next day was a beautiful day for mowing. I started the tractor and as I moved out of the garage I went to raise the mowing deck. Nothing happened. As I continued to move forward, I happened to look back and I noticed I was leaving a trail of hydraulic fluid. Crap.

I stopped and cleaned up the mess. I determined that the only time fluid came out was when I operated the SCV. The deck was at mowing height (down), so I decided to go ahead and get it mowed. If I'm careful, I don't need to raise the deck to get it mowed. I checked the hydraulic fluid level first and added a little bit. I also locked the SCV just in case I forgot.

After mowing, I figured that I needed to get the mowing deck off in order to see what was leaking. We also had a big storm forecast and I needed to reconfigure again for snow. I borrowed a floor jack from a neighbor so that with my floor jack on one side and his on the other, I could lift the deck enough to relieve the pressure on the height selector. Once I could get the selector set to INSTALL, I took out the jacks and the deck went down almost to the ground. I also had to operate the SCV to get it all the way down. Then I backed off it as usual.

Today I took apart the tractor to get to the cylinder and hoses for the MMM lift. You have to get the floor boards off, and those of you who have done this before know how much has to be removed.

The leak was on the cylinder. Fluid was coming out of the air vent. I believe this means that the seals are shot inside.

mmmlift1.jpg


Before I found where the leak was, I think I found out why the leak occurred. On one end of the cylinder, the large pin was missing its small retaining pin and the large pin was out of one hole and sitting at an angle. I suspect that this created lateral forces inside the cylinder which damaged it.

mmmlift2.jpg


On the other end of the cylinder, the large pin still has its retaining pin, but it's a hairclip pin. It's not that hard for one of those to get knocked out, and this cylinder is not something that gets removed frequently. When I re-install the cylinder, I will be using cotter pins that won't come out unless I want them out.

mmmlift3.jpg


Getting the problem pin out was challenging. The big spring, which appears to be there to add force when the mower hanger is going down (it's probably not heavy enough on its own to clear the cylinder of fluid), fights you from putting the back end of the cylinder connection high enough to get adequate clearance to remove the pin.

mmmlift4.jpg


Using the part of the mechanism for the mechanical lift, I added a pin and used a pry bar for leverage to overcome the spring, turning the assembly high enough to get the pin out. Because I needed the hand that was operating the pry bar, I used a ratchet strap to pull and keep it into the right position. The other end of the ratchet strap is connected to the horizontal bar on the ROPS.

mmmlift5.jpg


Even with that elaborate setup, there is still an "interference fit" between the pin and the left fender assembly. I had to tap the pin to force it over the plastic edge on the fender. There will likely be a mark, but not visible with all the covers on.

mmmlift6.jpg


The next time you have the floorboards off your 1025R, it would be good to check these pins and replace any weak ones with cotter pins. The best price I could get on a new cylinder was $282 from GFP with the discount and free shipping. I also got a phone quote from a local shop on rebuilding the defective cylinder. They wanted $250, but were not sure they could do it until they opened it up. You don't know if the damaging forces just got the seals or also gouged the metal parts.

My tractor is scattered all over my garage awaiting the new part. I hope it comes fast.
 

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Mmm lift fails, leaves puddle

Hello, I feel your pain! I've been there, done that. Even though the spring in the way is a hassle, I found that it is easier to snap it off and HOPE that you can get it back on later than to continually fight with it.
The other item, the clevis pin on the cylinder can be more easily removed if you remove 3 Square headed (carriage bolts, it's a John Deere) and removed the bracket that supports the fuel tank and part of the fender. Then the clevis pin can be easily removed. See Picture.
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello, I feel your pain! I've been there, done that. Even though the spring in the way is a hassle, I found that it is easier to snap it off and HOPE that you can get it back on later than to continually fight with it.
The other item, the clevis pin on the cylinder can be more easily removed if you remove 3 Square headed (carriage bolts, it's a John Deere) and removed the bracket that supports the fuel tank and part of the fender. Then the clevis pin can be easily removed. See Picture.
Ken
I considered disconnecting the spring. I couldn't see a clear approach to getting at it to disconnect it, so I figured it would be hard or harder to get it reconnected. When there's a major physical effort and/or extreme contortion required, I usually look for a way to cheat.

I also thought about what it would take to remove the fender/fuel tank. You are certainly more ambitious than I am. My plan is to file a flat spot on the head of the large pin so that it can easily fit past the fender edge. There will still be plenty of metal to keep it from slipping through the hole (significantly more than a cotter pin on the other side). I know they make pins with holes for cotter pins on both ends and no head. Finding one the right size would take time, though.

Was your failure due to the same problem I had, or were you able to identify a cause for your failure?
 
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I would be curious as to the result IE the cylinder problem

Normally a single acting cylinder leaking as you describe is just a Re-pack/Seal issue........but .........if it is as you suspect due to the stresses of the pin being half out you could have as noted scored/gouged the inside of they cylinder making full replacement the only practical option.....$250 for repacking seems expensive might be a good time to learn to do seal replacement if you have the time as seals are probably less than 30$ (ie if you end up buying a new cylinder this would make a good one to practice on)

Staying tuned for results..........good luck

i am sure those that have a machine like yours will certainly appreciate the good pictures and descriptions
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would be curious as to the result IE the cylinder problem

Normally a single acting cylinder leaking as you describe is just a Re-pack/Seal issue........but .........if it is as you suspect due to the stresses of the pin being half out you could have as noted scored/gouged the inside of they cylinder making full replacement the only practical option.....$250 for repacking seems expensive might be a good time to learn to do seal replacement if you have the time as seals are probably less than 30$ (ie if you end up buying a new cylinder this would make a good one to practice on)

Staying tuned for results..........good luck

i am sure those that have a machine like yours will certainly appreciate the good pictures and descriptions

Both of the end caps on this cylinder are welded on, so I guess you'd have to grind the welds off one end and then re-weld it after the re-build. I don't weld, so I didn't give this much thought. I watched a you-tube video on how to rebuild a cylinder. In the video, the guy simply screwed one end off (although it required a special tool that he had built in order to do it.) This seems like a lot of work just to find damaged surfaces in the cylinder. If I had a band saw (on the list for someday), I'd cut it open just to see what happened.
 

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Both of the end caps on this cylinder are welded on, so I guess you'd have to grind the welds off one end and then re-weld it after the re-build. I don't weld, so I didn't give this much thought. I watched a you-tube video on how to rebuild a cylinder. In the video, the guy simply screwed one end off (although it required a special tool that he had built in order to do it.) This seems like a lot of work just to find damaged surfaces in the cylinder. If I had a band saw (on the list for someday), I'd cut it open just to see what happened.

boy i would be pissed to find a welded up cylinder......JDs way of making sure you buy their parts i guess or they just consider it a consumable part......


Edit to add:....surely its not welded ....some of those built like that the end cap is internal threaded ...or you push the end in and a internal snap ring releases the end cap.....if your curious you could look it up on JDs parts site and see if it shows repair parts ...

LOL Edit to add again...looking around at JD parts i couldnt find anything but the assembly so it may have no easy option to rebuild.... DID find this thread on here discussing this cylinder also 1023r part replacement p/n or after market
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I modified the pin with the "interference fit". It now goes in easily and without interference with the left fender.

IMG_2445.JPG
 

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I had the floorboard off on both of my 1025Rs last month when I installed the "Enhanced Pistol Grip Actuator" for the diverter. I found the cylinder clevis pin on both of mine just like yours. Rather than a hitch pin clip, I utilized a flat washer and a cotter pin this time. As far as overcoming the spring pressure, I utilize a large Crescent (aka: adjustable wrench) that I place the jaws over the rockshaft arm that would connect with the mechanical lift link, the same as where you placed your pry bar. I didn't have any issue overcoming the spring tension with one had on the wrench while the other seated the clevis pin fully and rotated it for easy installation of the cotter pin. It was an 18 or 24" wrench, however.

As to the cylinder, I know another member posted about a year ago that he located an aftermarket substitute for quite a bit less. I'm sure it is here somewhere, but the search function is daunting and tedious.
 

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As to the cylinder, I know another member posted about a year ago that he located an aftermarket substitute for quite a bit less. I'm sure it is here somewhere, but the search function is daunting and tedious.
I spent about 40 minutes searching for this as well. No luck.
 

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I spent about 40 minutes searching for this as well. No luck.
I searched for about 30 minutes with no success, either. I'm guessing you ordered the entire kit, which includes the cylinder, mounting bracket, return spring, fasteners, etc. The PN for cylinder only is LVA15396. That would have saved you a few dollars. JD Parts Online does not break the kit down, but the installation instructions does.

I'm still thinking that aftermarket cylinder was less than $100.
 

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LVA15396 had been replaced by LVA23447, but is ~$306, where the kit is ~$285. Stupid....you get more for less.

NormalAppImage(1).jpg
 
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LVA15396 had been replaced by LVA23447, but is ~$306, where the kit is ~$285. Stupid....you get more for less.

View attachment 684008

I ordered LVA23447, of which the description said only the cylinder. Who knows what I'll get.
 
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LVA15396 had been replaced by LVA23447, but is ~$306, where the kit is ~$285. Stupid....you get more for less.

View attachment 684008
I don't particularly care to be called stupid:

GFP cyclinders.JPG

These prices are before the GTT discount, as well.
 

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Oh no no no Martin. That was not directed at you ! Rather, I meant it directed at John Deere's pricing arrangement. It's crazy that you can buy a complete kit for less than one individual part of that kit. Seems to me I ran into that with the 1025 front quick hitch adaptor bracket also. The adaptor is over $400 yet the kit it comes in is only about $285.

Sorry, I definitely meant no offensive Martin.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
So I'm still waiting for my hydraulic cylinder. This time of year my tractor jobs' timing gets dictated by the weather. There's a long storm coming in tomorrow night, so I had to scramble this morning to put the tractor back together to get some work done. I aerated the entire property this afternoon and evening. I plan to get it fertilized tomorrow during the day before the storm hits at night. I'm deliberating over whether my cheapness not to pay for the expedited shipping was worth all the extra work of taking the tractor apart twice.

While putting the tractor back together, I realized that there is a simplification that I had overlooked. I don't need the ratchet strap. All that is needed is to use the pry bar (or wrench as suggested by martincom), then turn the height control shaft all the way clockwise to the "LOCK" position. (You'll have to find the knob and put it back on since you took it off to get the floor off.) This secures the MMM carrier in the all-the-way UP position. The carrier is out of the way for other uses of the tractor and it will already be in the right position to reinstall the cylinder when I get the part.

Keane
 
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It's green, it's big, and it's complicated.

My replacement cylinder arrived. I didn't notice it right away, but the new cylinder is slightly bigger in diameter. It also has a screw-on cap so that the innards can be replaced if needed. And it's very green. This explains the high price. There were no associated parts included in this part number. I was also puzzled that there is no visible vent on this cylinder, but it works like a cylinder should so I'm not going to worry about it.


mmmlift7.jpg


After I replaced the cylinder, I decided to test everything before I put all the covers back in place. That's when I discovered that the new cylinder was bigger in diameter. The lift arm was rubbing on the cylinder housing when the MMM carrier was all the way up.


mmmlift8.jpg


The shot below is a closeup of the interference. It looks like the initial testing rubbed off about 3 or 4 dollars worth of that expensive green paint.


mmmlift9.jpg


To fix the rubbing problem, I used some washers I had as shims to position the cylinder on both ends as far away from the lift arm as possible. I used 3 washers on the front end and only 1 on the back. It looks like you could use 2 on the back, but I couldn't get a second one in there. I needed a skinny washer of the same circumference dimensions, but didn't have one. I was worried that my shim job might create lateral forces on the cylinder, which as you recall started this whole adventure. I measured from the center of each end to the tractor frame that runs parallel to cylinder, and I found those distances to be pretty equal. So I decided not to worry anymore.


mmmlift10.jpg


With the shims in place, the clearance between the lift arm and the cylinder is about 1/16th inch. The shims should keep it from getting any closer.


mmmlift11.jpg


I did use cotter pins this time, which of course complicated the rework I had to do to get the shims in place. I noticed that the cotter pin on the front pin is right in the vicinity of where the 2 fuel lines get locked into that slot on the floor of the operator's position. I didn't want anything sharp near those lines, so I put thread protectors on the ends of the cotter pin. (I took this next photo before I put the shims in place.) The 2 fuel lines you see at the left in the photo are not in their normal position. When the tractor floor is put back in place, they are locked in place much further to the right.

mmmlift12.jpg


From watching the motion of the cylinder when it's in use, it is clear that the ends rotate on the pins to some extent. I lubricated these friction points with JD Superlube as part of this repair and I will lube these points each time I have the floor removed in the future.
 
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FYI,

If you're still seeking some washers that are the same or nearly the same physical size as your flat washers, stainless steel flat washers are typically thinner.
 
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FYI,

If you're still seeking some washers that are the same or nearly the same physical size as your flat washers, stainless steel flat washers are typically thinner.
Thanks. That's good to know. I was able to get things in good order with what I had on hand. I'll try to remember to get an ss-washer the next time I'm in town and put it on the next time I tear everything down. I joke with my neighbors that I have my own hardware store in my basement. It's a long way to town, and I believe I saved a lot of money over the years by investing early is some big hardware assortment sets. It doesn't take many trips to pay for it all, and a lot of time is saved. You get to complete projects all in one time period, which reduces errors and forgotten details. Whenever I buy hardware, I buy more pieces than I need. It all comes in handy somewhere down the line.
 

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Very interesting the new cylinder has a screw on cap and no vent. I wonder if the kit and new production tractors come with the new cylinder also.

Thanks for the info keane. :thumbup1gif:
 
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