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Modifying a box blade to fit iMatch hitch

10312 Views 17 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  dieselshadow
Guys, I want your opinion on this.
My dealer was correct in that the box blade I own prior to the purchase of my tractor w/ iMatch hitch wouldn't fit the new hitch. No problem. I have the technology to change that. :thumbup1gif:

Tractor Vehicle Agricultural machinery Planter Machine


Well, after some disassembling and straightening I got it to this point.

Vehicle Tractor Agricultural machinery Automotive wheel system Wheel

Clamp

Machine Wood Machine tool


I plan on moving the triangular reinforcement pieces out to match the position of the arms. The gap between the pins and the arms is representative of the upright arm that is not in the picture. As you can see in the first photos, the arms and uprights were bent. I just don't like where the iMatch hooks sit on the bushings and put a lot more bending motion/stress on the pins. I can move the arms out even further but is this necessary? :unknown::think: The further they are moved out, I think it'll be harder to use as a standard pin-on hook-up. I was hoping to keep the ability to use the box blade without the quick hitch. Although, that is not the priority. I trying to keep it strong, simple, and compatible. I thought of converting to a clevis style pins (like the top link) and just putting bushings on the pins to match the iMatch. This wouldn't be my first choice due to having to add more parts and all the slop that adds up.

What do you think? Any Ideas?:munch:
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I vote the clevis style you mentioned-that makes for a super strong setup and you won't have to worry about the arms bending again. My second choice would be to move the arms out, If it's a problem hooking up the blade directly the pins can always be turned to inside the arms.
Yup clevis will be the strongest. But, I think you are on the right track. My tiller is Landpride and actually has adjustable clevis's. I doubt you will want to go through that trouble.
Clamp
I would do something like this. Just run a long pin through with bushings and you will be set. :thumbup1gif:
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That's pretty cool how you did the picture JD3720. :thumbup1gif:

I appreciate the feedback guys. My current plan is a compilation of all the ideas. Here's a little bit of progress.


Vehicle Machine Wheel

Vehicle Agricultural machinery Machine Tractor



String instrument Guitar


I still have to weld in the outer bushing support arms, straighten the upright arms, and install the upright bracing. After all of that, it'll probably get a coat of paint. JD green of course!:drinks:
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Looking really good. Should work just fine!
Some more progress

I can't decide if I need or want to add another upper brace. Right now nothing ties the left upright to the right except the pin. I think a brace welded to both uprights going back to the middle of the box would strengthen it up greatly. But is it needed? What do you think?


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That looks fantastic! I do think you need a brace on the upper brackets to help keep twisting forces down.
Looking Good Jason.

:good2::thumbup1gif::good2::thumbup1gif:

Looks like you'll be moving dirt before ya know it.

Nice job!
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Thanks Kenny and Randy! I'll be testing it out tomorrow. I'm helping a friend rebuild his steep driveway. Kenny just confirmed that I'm going to install the extra brace. I don't think I would've been happy without it anyway. After the brace, a coat of JD green and some more photos for you guys:D


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Box Blade Completed

Here's the box blade before modification

Tractor Vehicle Agricultural machinery Planter Machine

Vehicle Machine


And here it is finished

Vehicle Tractor Agricultural machinery Machine

Tractor Vehicle Agricultural machinery Auto part Automotive wheel system

Green Vehicle Agricultural machinery Machine Plant


It's a rattle can paint job, nothing special.:unknown: I didn't figure it was worth all the prep work and expense for a real paint job or powder coating. I didn't even mask off the cutting edges:laugh:

Thanks for all your input and compliments. :thumbup1gif: Hope you enjoy the pics.:hi:
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Very well done Jason!

Great thread documentation! :good2: Now that it fits the machine and looks pretty does it work? :mocking:
Now that it fits the machine and looks pretty does it work?:mocking:

And scratch the paint? :cray:

great looking job. :good2:
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Looks really good! The best part about doing this yourself is, you do it your way weather you need it or not!!!!:thumbup1gif:
Great job

By putting the rear support center,, you done a very good thing,,,voice of experienc Iam sayin,,,,as soon as nthe rippers catch a tree root or as such and the tractor is still pullin for about 4-12 inches,,,there is a lot of pressure that come back up the tail end and back into the top link, I have a 6' model and it was the same as yours in the start, I redone mine once knowing i would eventualy need to do it a lot better, I have a picture of both. I put a 2 5/16 ball on top of mine to move the trailers around.
Great job :good2::good2::good2::good2:

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dieselshadow nice job. Those braces welded to the pins sure looks like it should be really strong.
Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words.

And Randy, I don't run a museum here... :mocking: but so far it's working like it did before :thumbup1gif:


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