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Discussion Starter #1
Maybe a strange question, is it possible to take a row or two of tines off of 4' tiller to work up narrower sections? I currently have an 18 year old MTD walk behind tiller that's ok but takes a lot of effort to get a so so tilling job done. We have a small garden, not really worth buying a KK or other PTO tiller to mount on my 1025r. We do however like to make 2-3 foot wide separate garden patches for things like raspberries, garlic etc. Don't want the full width but if a row or two of tines are easy to remove I could accomplish both tasks with one tiller.

Thanks,
Dean
 

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Just trying to understand, so you would want to take out the center tines so that you can till on either side of a row of garlic? I'd have to go look at my tiller to be sure but it sound like it would be possibility.
 

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I think he wants to take off 2 rows of tines, maybe one on each end so he can have a 3 ft wide tilled strip to garden in, then add them back when he wants to till his larger garden.

Sounds like it would work, in order to keep the same load on the end bearings I would remove the same number of rows from each end to keep it balanced. I would not take 2 rows off of just one side, I doubt the tiller would have a catastrophic failure, but I could see the bearings wearing more over time. The tines generally bolt in, so they are not difficult to remove with basic tools.
 

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In theory it should work but it is still under one guard. It would think a plant might look a little rough because those blades spin a lot faster than a walk behind. It’s like a blender under there.:dunno:
 

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The pattern for my tines are offset the same amount all the way around but they are in a corkscrew pattern so I bet you if you removed the same amount in the middle it might cause some serious vibrations. But only 1 way to find out and that's to try it out and see . :bigthumb:
 

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In theory it should work but it is still under one guard. It would think a plant might look a little rough because those blades spin a lot faster than a walk behind. It’s like a blender under there.:dunno:
https://www.agrisupply.com/one-row-cultivator/p/10398/

Sounds more like he needs one of these. I gave this some more thought and like you seems more like a good idea until you try and put into play. Even if he could make the tiller 30" wide the tractor is still the same width.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the replies. I'm not looking to cultivate on both sides of a planted row. The idea was to remove rows of tines so I could till a 2' or 3' wide path. Especially when cutting in a new 2' x 30' stand alone bed. Taking a row or 2 off of each end to keep the bearing load balanced should be perfectly fine. Just wondering how easy it is to remove the rows. On my walk behind each row of tines is sleeved on over the shaft so if the larger tillers are the same it would require removal of bearings and drive line components to slide a sleeve of tines.
 

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I can't speak to other tiller models, but... the tines on my Troybilt horse tiller can be removed from the hub that mounts on the shaft without removing the hub. This is so they can be easily replaced when worn down. I'm fairly certain I could remove the two outer sets and till with the inner sets to create a narrower tiller, but I've not actually tried it. I suspect most quality tillers that have replaceable tines are similar.
 

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is it possible to take a row or two of tines off of 4' tiller to work up narrower sections?
It depends. How's that for an answer. I have not seen where you have posted the type of rototiller, only that it's a 4 footer. Sorry if I missed it. Perhaps that answer plus a picture of the tines would help. Maybe it's "obvious by inspection" once one takes a look.
 

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I haven't posted the type of tiller because I haven't bought a tiller yet. Looking for ideas on one that could do what I was hoping to do.
That could be a good thing then, maybe I'm not totally understanding what it is you want to do exactly. You can take as many tines off the tiller you want, the tiller will still be the same width, and even if you bought a narrower tiller you can change the width of the tractor.
 

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I think I'm tracking what you are trying to do.

Say you currently have a complete sod area
In that area, you want to make 2-3' wide by 30' long "garden strips" with the tiller.
With this, the width of the tractor and the width of the tiller housing won't matter, as long as the tiller is only digging 2-3'.
Am I following?

Then, your answer is yes, kind of, you can do it.

On KK and count line tillers, the tines are bolted on to a "hub" on the shaft, so you can take off the outside tines equally from both sides to essentially make a narrower tilled area.
The problem will be with the depth. Generally tillers are rated for ~4" tilling depth based off adjustability of the skid shoes. They will go deeper in tilled soil, as it's soft and allows it to sink in more. With those shoes running on sod, that will be a pretty accurate number.
Also, you will still have the "hub" on the shaft, so that will hit the ground if allowed to go that deep, and potentially damage sod.

Bottom line, will it work, yes, with some minor nuances to keep in mind.
 

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I haven't posted the type of tiller because I haven't bought a tiller yet. Looking for ideas on one that could do what I was hoping to do.
Just make sure the tiller you buy meets your criteria. My 31 tiller has outer removable tines by removing bolts.
 

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I think I'm tracking what you are trying to do.

Say you currently have a complete sod area
In that area, you want to make 2-3' wide by 30' long "garden strips" with the tiller.
With this, the width of the tractor and the width of the tiller housing won't matter, as long as the tiller is only digging 2-3'.
Am I following?

Then, your answer is yes, kind of, you can do it.

On KK and count line tillers, the tines are bolted on to a "hub" on the shaft, so you can take off the outside tines equally from both sides to essentially make a narrower tilled area.
The problem will be with the depth. Generally tillers are rated for ~4" tilling depth based off adjustability of the skid shoes. They will go deeper in tilled soil, as it's soft and allows it to sink in more. With those shoes running on sod, that will be a pretty accurate number.
Also, you will still have the "hub" on the shaft, so that will hit the ground if allowed to go that deep, and potentially damage sod.

Bottom line, will it work, yes, with some minor nuances to keep in mind.
I hope you're right Cutty, I was having trouble visualizing what his intent was. :nunu: Now, this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ makes perfect sense. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for being clearer than I was on what I want to accomplish! That's it exactly. I hadn't thought about the shoes riding on sod keeping the tiller from getting full depth. My other option is a rear tine that would do a better job than my old front tine. Guess i'll have to think on it a bit more.

Dean
 

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Thanks for being clearer than I was on what I want to accomplish! That's it exactly. I hadn't thought about the shoes riding on sod keeping the tiller from getting full depth. My other option is a rear tine that would do a better job than my old front tine. Guess i'll have to think on it a bit more.

Dean

After I till my garden the ground gets softer so and I have acciddentially let mine down as far as it would go and almost buried it so it's gonna depend on much tilling you want to do . And how hard the ground is so far underneath.
 
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