Green Tractor Talk banner

Mounting 260 on 2017 JD1025R

4458 Views 62 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  SycoCell
I know this is ambiguous and subjective, but I found a 260a for $3k. I’d just have to buy the mounts ($1500 kit). Do you guys think it’s a good price or should I wait? I’m not in a rush for one, as of yet. I have a few months to play with before it is needed. I have a July 11, 2017 1025r which misses the second gen cutoff by like two days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Yeah, it’s just the 260. I’ve heard it referred to it both ways. As for the kit, the JD Parts site shows BLV10835 available to buy. I really don’t want to go over $4500 to get this setup. Someone in previous posts considered trading his entire machine for 0% with a new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks.

I submitted the order through JD for the same reason as you just said. If I cannot get it, I won’t purchase the hoe and look back into the 260B option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: kylew
I’m fairly certain it does fit the older tractors. Anyway, waiting for my dealer to confirm fitment of the kit I ordered. They said the warehouse shows 5 in stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lol.. sorry SC...I forgot you were the one looking at the 260B fitting a pre mid-2017 tractor. My bad [emoji1787]
  • Like
Reactions: kylew
It would put me at $4500 for the whole thing. I guess that seems legit. Buying 4 acres of open land and building a house on it. I will have a ton of holes to dig for landscaping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: kylew
I am actually a pro at justifying any John Deere purchase to my CFO.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't think that price is bad all together, barring the backhoe itself is in good condition. Pretty sure that's a thousand or two cheaper than getting a new 260B and its sub-frame.

A new house and landscaping would be perfect work for it and the loader, and would completely justify the purchase in my eyes.
My pallet forks arrived today haha. I’ve had 7 tractors in the past 18 months. Now I’m settled on the 1025R. Don’t plan to ever change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We need more details... [emoji16][emoji106]
Out of curiosity, why do you say trading tractors? Like to a post 2017 tractor? Mines got 140hrs frame and 2 hours on the brand new engine (warranty replaced from the air intake issue).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At $4500 to add the backhoe....I'd consider just trading tractors....I've seen a lot of good deals on complete units....
  • Like
Reactions: Jimmy Walker
Hard to say. I paid $10.5k cash for my tractor, loader, and mower a month ago. A TLB would be 24k I’d imagine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would weigh the value of your current tractor, against the value and cost of one with backhoe and see if the $4500 would be justified.


Picked it up. Now just waiting on my subframe mounts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I ordered the full kit that includes the swivel seat and subframe mounts for my specific model tractor and to accept the 260 backhoe.

I installed the PB kit last week when I changed a coupler out. Very easy to do.

My biggest worry is getting 360ftlbs of torque on those few bolts but aside from that, I can’t imagine the install is THAT hard. Time consuming, sure, but aside from that, a few beers, some cursing, it’ll be fine.

I’ll remove the rear tires and go from there. If I have to remove the fenders and platform, that adds 30 minutes but an easy task. Aside from that, it’s a tractor. Quite basic.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: kylew
If you can send me pics of your subframe from all angles that helps me a lot! I don’t expect a ton from JD directions. I assume you have the 260 and not the 260B?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I noticed on my unit the subframe is tied into the roll bar....was thinking of removing the roll bar since using the backhoe but it looked like an almost impossibility. The poster is into an ambitious project, seems like one would need to strip down the who rear of the tractor. I'm anxious to see how he comes out and maybe he'll advise time and cost factors in doing this. Would really be interested in knowing.
Thanks for the photos. Hopefully the frame arrives by the weekend. Depends how quickly green parts store ships something this large.

Did it mount between the loader mounts and the frame? As in, do I need to remove the loader mounts first? Would love to start prepping the tractor in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. I’ve read through it a few times. Looks quite easy aside from the heavy torquing. Guess I’ll go get an iron pipe for my breaker bar. My ghetto harbor freight impact gun doesn’t handle that much torque.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's the instructions for installing the sub-frame. Look it over and familiarize yourself with it and your tractor. It'll make sense when you do. The installation is a piece of cake, with the exception of removing and reinstalling the draft pin nuts to 357 lbs-ft. A piece of pipe to extend a breaker bar handle usually works well to remove them, and even tighten them if you want to guess at the torque. Otherwise a torque multiplier will be needed, as most torque wrenches don't go that high. Also, pay attention in the instructions as to whether they are saying to torque something in lb-ft or lb-in.

Edit: The instructions do not come with the kit.
  • Like
Reactions: kylew
Subframe kit arrives Friday! Can’t wait. I plugged the backhoe hydraulics in yesterday to test them and I instantly smiled. My wife is going to kill me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Step one complete. Removed all the hardware aside from the 34mm big boy. I realized I only have a 33mm socket - and it’s not deep enough. So, I think my option is to go buy a 34mm wrench at Northern Tool and some sort of long iron pipe for the leverage. I was hoping to use my gun but I don’t think I’ll find a socket deep enough to hit it.

UPS should be delivering this evening. After the 34mm nut, “should” be a pretty simple process.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, I found the 34mm at Northern. The Dewalt made quick work of that.

Installing now. So far VERY easy.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: keane
All done! It was a very easy install. Only PITA was the stupid seat. I couldn’t figure it out. Took me an hour and I still don’t know where to install one of the brackets. Maybe someone can photo their seat mechanism from all angles so I can try to understand. I’m fairly certain my swivel bracket was built incorrectly.

Went to go hook it up and as I’m leaving the woods, it went dead as a door nail. I blew a fuse because I must have screwed a wire up when I was flipping my tail lights while waiting for UPS. But, wife came out and calmed me down, swapped fuses, and put it away in the garage. I’ll have to do a test of the machine tomorrow!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So there’s a silver bar with two screw holes in it. From what I gather, a suspension support bracket go there’s, but I’m fairly certain my silver bar is rotated 90 degrees from where it should be. I can’t figure out where this little support goes.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: kylew
The bar in question. Also, are the seatbelts supposed to be able to pivot out of the way to rotate the seat? I had to loosen their bolts a bit to drop them down when I spin the seat.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top