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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Here's the instructions for installing the sub-frame. Look it over and familiarize yourself with it and your tractor. It'll make sense when you do. The installation is a piece of cake, with the exception of removing and reinstalling the draft pin nuts to 357 lbs-ft. A piece of pipe to extend a breaker bar handle usually works well to remove them, and even tighten them if you want to guess at the torque. Otherwise a torque multiplier will be needed, as most torque wrenches don't go that high. Also, pay attention in the instructions as to whether they are saying to torque something in lb-ft or lb-in.

Edit: The instructions do not come with the kit.
Thanks. I’ve read through it a few times. Looks quite easy aside from the heavy torquing. Guess I’ll go get an iron pipe for my breaker bar. My ghetto harbor freight impact gun doesn’t handle that much torque.


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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Subframe kit arrives Friday! Can’t wait. I plugged the backhoe hydraulics in yesterday to test them and I instantly smiled. My wife is going to kill me.


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Subframe kit arrives Friday! Can’t wait. I plugged the backhoe hydraulics in yesterday to test them and I instantly smiled. My wife is going to kill me.


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Uhm... You are going the "better to beg for forgiveness after purchasing" route AND by doing so, you're giving her immediate access to a Backhoe? I'm not sure you have fully thought this through. 🤔
 

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I ordered the full kit that includes the swivel seat and subframe mounts for my specific model tractor and to accept the 260 backhoe.

I installed the PB kit last week when I changed a coupler out. Very easy to do.

My biggest worry is getting 360ftlbs of torque on those few bolts but aside from that, I can’t imagine the install is THAT hard. Time consuming, sure, but aside from that, a few beers, some cursing, it’ll be fine.

I’ll remove the rear tires and go from there. If I have to remove the fenders and platform, that adds 30 minutes but an easy task. Aside from that, it’s a tractor. Quite basic.

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I rented a torque wrench from Auto parts store when I had to torque something that tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Step one complete. Removed all the hardware aside from the 34mm big boy. I realized I only have a 33mm socket - and it’s not deep enough. So, I think my option is to go buy a 34mm wrench at Northern Tool and some sort of long iron pipe for the leverage. I was hoping to use my gun but I don’t think I’ll find a socket deep enough to hit it.

UPS should be delivering this evening. After the 34mm nut, “should” be a pretty simple process.




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I always used a pipe wrench have a bar that does over the handle....no problem in loosening....you can easily get the 340 loosening and tightening with that....
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Yeah, I found the 34mm at Northern. The Dewalt made quick work of that.

Installing now. So far VERY easy.





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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
All done! It was a very easy install. Only PITA was the stupid seat. I couldn’t figure it out. Took me an hour and I still don’t know where to install one of the brackets. Maybe someone can photo their seat mechanism from all angles so I can try to understand. I’m fairly certain my swivel bracket was built incorrectly.

Went to go hook it up and as I’m leaving the woods, it went dead as a door nail. I blew a fuse because I must have screwed a wire up when I was flipping my tail lights while waiting for UPS. But, wife came out and calmed me down, swapped fuses, and put it away in the garage. I’ll have to do a test of the machine tomorrow!




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Post a picture of the bracket in question and some of your swivel assy. At least give an idea of what you're looking at.
 
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
So there’s a silver bar with two screw holes in it. From what I gather, a suspension support bracket go there’s, but I’m fairly certain my silver bar is rotated 90 degrees from where it should be. I can’t figure out where this little support goes.






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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
The bar in question. Also, are the seatbelts supposed to be able to pivot out of the way to rotate the seat? I had to loosen their bolts a bit to drop them down when I spin the seat.




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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Also have these leftover. Can’t even find them in the directions and I didn’t skip anything.




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Working on an answer for you.... stay tuned.....
 

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Syscocell: I found on my tractor that the seat belt bracket would hang with the seat. My preference was not to use seat belt so I removed and same hardware. I also removed the upper bar on my roll bar and the cross piece at the bottom....some may say unsafe but catching that stuff in trees and etc in my take was unsafer....also on the seat the pivot rod will probably fail at the ball connection so I used a larger on out of nickel from McMasters. I can sent you pics of my seat if this would help....glad you got it back together....I'm working on hydraulic thumb now since my valve will work with backhoe...
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Syscocell: I found on my tractor that the seat belt bracket would hang with the seat. My preference was not to use seat belt so I removed and same hardware. I also removed the upper bar on my roll bar and the cross piece at the bottom....some may say unsafe but catching that stuff in trees and etc in my take was unsafer....also on the seat the pivot rod will probably fail at the ball connection so I used a larger on out of nickel from McMasters. I can sent you pics of my seat if this would help....glad you got it back together....I'm working on hydraulic thumb now since my valve will work with backhoe...
I considered removing the belt but I keep the rops folded down unless I’m doing “work”. And at that point, I buckle in. If you roll it, won’t help if you flip off the seat and get smashed by the machine. I think I’ll just keep the belt loose. Thanks!

Keep me posted on the hydraulic thumb. I’m always looking to spend money on cool stuff!

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