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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 1025R has only 41 hours on it, with less than 10 of those with the mower deck. Yesterday when I was mowing the deck dropped and I cut half my yard lower than I originally had set it at. If I raise / lower the deck, depending on how the knob is clicked into the position, the deck with drop to a lower height.

I got under the tractor and the adjustment gear is already worn on the edge of the height setting I use. You can feel the metal curling over the edge. This is ridiculous for only a few hours. Is something out of adjustment or did I just end up with a faulty part? I did notice that when turning the knob to go to a lower setting it locks in on the small edge of the gear. If I then turn it slightly towards a higher setting it will hold on the larger part of the gear. Almost like the detent spring isn't strong enough to keep it in the center of the ledge. It also doesn't have full engagement as the wear is only on the edge and not across the entire ledge.
 

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it's a relatively poor design, the edges of the mower height cam on my tractor are getting a little gouged up too, I'm already anticipating having to fix it up with some weld and grinding at some point.

I don't think there's anything you can adjust, but you make sure to always lift the deck before you turn the adjuster. when you lower it, you should check to make sure the mechanism is sitting flat on a step on the cam, and not just catching the edge of the next highest one.

sorry I can't be of more help, I've also decided that if it gets bad, I will just set the height with the 3pt control stop. (if you have the mechanical lift)
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I always lift the deck before turning the adjuster. I'll just have to make sure it is fully sitting on the flat surface. For a machine that's made to mow you think the design would be better. As it stands when installing the deck I always have to get my blade height gauge out to make sure I'm in the right detent as you can't really tell. I should have saved the $2k on the deck, spent more for a zero turn, and bought a 2 series tractor for everything else.
 

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Until you get that sorted out you can use the position control lock to keep the mower deck from dropping - unless you paid extra to get hydraulic lift.
 
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I had the same problem with my mmm adjustment. I found the detent plate was rotating with the ajustment cam because the tab that retains the detent was not bent down. I positioned the detent plate and bent the tab down. Problem solved.
 

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I had the same problem with my mmm adjustment. I found the detent plate was rotating with the ajustment cam because the tab that retains the detent was not bent down. I positioned the detent plate and bent the tab down. Problem solved.
I had the same problem. Very bad design. John Deere should fix free
 

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Lube it

The last time I had my tractor apart to where I could easily get to the cam, I used a brush to grease the crap out of all surfaces on it. I could not detect any lube on it before I did this. Metal against metal, especially where there will be a lot of rubbing (think going over bumps with the heavy MMM on) will wear pretty quickly if there's no lube. If lubing this is recommended in the manuals as part of preventive maintenance, I sure missed it.
 
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Lubing Height of Cut mechanism

I read this and sprayed a PTFE Teflon dry lube onto the entire mechanism to avoid collecting dirt and dust. It began to work beautifully, easy to turn and all. About 50 hours later it began to slip to lower heights, sometimes very quickly. I ended up adjusting the anti scalp rollers to their maximum down positions. This kept the MMM from dropping too far and allowing me a reasonable height of cut, roughly 2.75". I'm particular about the height as I'm a retired agronomist/golf course superintendent and want the best possible opportunity to grow healthy turf.

I haven't called my service man at JD yet. I'm waiting on August and the doldrums of the growing season to do that. I hope some the info here will help explain the problem clearly and effectively. Thanks to all for the informative posts.:yahoo:
 
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I always lift the deck before turning the adjuster. I'll just have to make sure it is fully sitting on the flat surface. For a machine that's made to mow you think the design would be better. As it stands when installing the deck I always have to get my blade height gauge out to make sure I'm in the right detent as you can't really tell. I should have saved the $2k on the deck, spent more for a zero turn, and bought a 2 series tractor for everything else.
Once I had the blade height adjustments completed, I marked the dial in the height adjustment with a small permanent marker line for the two heights I cut at.
 
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I sent mine in to the dealership for the same problem and there was nothing that they could do. When I got the tractor home I adjusted the mower deck and tighten up the slack in the deck, and it seemed to fix the issue. The adjustment that seem to work the best was where the deck mounts on the front of the tracker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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front end adj?

I sent mine in to the dealership for the same problem and there was nothing that they could do. When I got the tractor home I adjusted the mower deck and tighten up the slack in the deck, and it seemed to fix the issue. The adjustment that seem to work the best was where the deck mounts on the front of the tracker.


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Did you shorten the front fork position which lifts the front of the mowing deck? Or something else to be successful?
 

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I always lift the deck before turning the adjuster. I'll just have to make sure it is fully sitting on the flat surface. For a machine that's made to mow you think the design would be better. As it stands when installing the deck I always have to get my blade height gauge out to make sure I'm in the right detent as you can't really tell. I should have saved the $2k on the deck, spent more for a zero turn, and bought a 2 series tractor for everything else.
If you are unhappy and only have 41 hours, tell Deere you want a deal to return the 1 series and buy the ZTR and 2 series. Life's too short, and you have the $$, to deal with the relatively poorly designed MMM.

Although it works well once it is set up properly, it can be a real pain in the @$$ to get there. Took me almost 3 years. And I finally bought a rotary cutter for my pastures to get the mow height I wanted. I've never been able to consistently get 4 inches on the MMM.
 

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In earlier post I said that I thought I had fixed the problem. it did seem to help the issue a little bit but I think there is more to fixing this problem. I took off the tractors foot platform so I could get a better look at the mower deck linkage in the diagram below, the shaft that is number 14 had some play that allowed it to move left to right about an eighth of an inch so I took a washer and shimmed the shaft between part number 17 in the diagram and part number 15 to take up some of the slop so that they adjust my arm would not slide off the adjustment cam that sets the height to the mower deck. I also filed the cam ledges flat and The linkage arm. I also bent The metal retainer spring clicks into place on the decks adjustment knob.
ko
here are some of the pictures that I took.
 

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This problem is almost 2 years old according to the initial post date. I had the same issue with my tractor. The spring clip broke that clicks against the “steps”. I had changed the hydraulic cylinder because it froze up. I selected a dual action aftermarket cylinder and plumbed it for power hydraulics up as well as down. Now I can load against the step and prevent bouncing of the deck causing the pawl from falling down the steps and the deck dropping down.

Just another view to alevieate the drop problem. Mine is more work and cost but I had to replace the cylinder anyway. Yes, the aftermarket cylinder and added plumbing is a whole lot cheaper and better than the JD replacement.
So I would agree the design as sold is flawed. But this is still the best tractor offering out there.
 
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