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Discussion Starter #1
I searched and couldn't find anything on this, if it's already been covered tell me how I missearched. I'm trying to get the 62c deck off my new-to-me x495 and can't get the driveshaft loose. I believe I'm pulling(forwards) on the right place to uncouple it, the seems-to-be spring loaded sleeve near the rear of the shaft. Am I pulling the wrong way, not hard enough, or on the wrong thing? I can't get any leverage and I don't know how long since it has been worked.
 

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Spud,

There is a locking collar to pull back that releases the drive shaft -- see the exploded view and item "O" in this illustration from the TM2024:
X495 mower drive shaft detail.jpg

I no longer have my X495 and it has been a while since I disconnected that shaft, but I am pretty sure you pull the collar TOWARD the yoke. It does not have much over-travel, and can be stiff if not used much...

Good luck,

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks Chuckv

I believe I'm pulling on the correct thing, the locking collar, but I can't get enough leverage to snap it free. It moves a little, it turns, I've sprayed some silicon lubricant into it, I'm gonna have to keep on playing with it. Anyone else have any insight?
 

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Try dropping the deck entirely except for the shaft. Remove the front hanger and push the deck toward the front of the tractor. Set the gauge wheels to keep the shaft as level as possible. This way you are not fighting against the deck. You might also try turning the shaft with the belt as you pull on the retainer ring, maybe back and forth one the belt. When you get it off, be sure to lube it real good with something that stays. I like fluid film on these sliding rings, and plain grease on the splines.

I've never had trouble removing the drift shaft, but I have used this technique to get the shaft all the way on (by pushing the drive shaft with the deck toward the back, in this case).
 

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Try dropping the deck entirely except for the shaft. Remove the front hanger and push the deck toward the front of the tractor. Set the gauge wheels to keep the shaft as level as possible. This way you are not fighting against the deck. You might also try turning the shaft with the belt as you pull on the retainer ring, maybe back and forth one the belt. When you get it off, be sure to lube it real good with something that stays. I like fluid film on these sliding rings, and plain grease on the splines.

I've never had trouble removing the drift shaft, but I have used this technique to get the shaft all the way on (by pushing the drive shaft with the deck toward the back, in this case).
Correct, as my X575 was balky the first time years ago. It was all my fault not to follow the JD written procedures!

I have to say to follow the John Deere R&R instructions exactly as written... and the collar will quickly slide, then the shaft will easily de-couple.
 

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Since the OP seems to be pulling on the collar correctly to disengage it, another thought comes to mind. I wonder if the slide part of the drive shaft is seized up?

The drive shaft is actually 2 pieces that slide in and out - you will see the joint around the middle of the shaft. If this joint looks corroded or dry it won't let the shaft compress when you are trying to remove it.

Here's an example pic of what I am talking about - I usually have a hard time explaining this stuff properly:

This is what one end of the drive shaft looks like:



The other end of the driveshaft will insert into this square hole:



Notice in the first pic how rusted it is? This can easily prevent the drive shaft from sliding enough so you can get it off the PTO shaft.
 

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Coaltrain,

Thanks! Great photos and details.

A little lubrication, goes a long way!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Again, thanks

The pics and advice have helped, at least I'm confident I'm in the right spot pulling in the right direction. I had already checked that the drive shaft sections were free to each other and they don't look bad. I'm a little hesitant about dropping the front of the deck to pull forward, I've got to make sure I don't end up in a worse bind... The ring/coupler/sleeve that should pull forward to release is free, it pulls forward and back maybe 1/8", but won't come forward enough to release anything. I'm just trying to get some lubricant in there to free up what I picture is balls like in a quick connect fitting that don't want to move freely. As for following the JD book, their instructions are pretty vague... reach in from the left side and pull. forums like this are why I love the internet.
 

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The pics and advice have helped, at least I'm confident I'm in the right spot pulling in the right direction. I had already checked that the drive shaft sections were free to each other and they don't look bad. I'm a little hesitant about dropping the front of the deck to pull forward, I've got to make sure I don't end up in a worse bind... The ring/coupler/sleeve that should pull forward to release is free, it pulls forward and back maybe 1/8", but won't come forward enough to release anything. I'm just trying to get some lubricant in there to free up what I picture is balls like in a quick connect fitting that don't want to move freely. As for following the JD book, their instructions are pretty vague... reach in from the left side and pull. forums like this are why I love the internet.
Doing the all stuff that JD asks you to do BEFORE you "reach in from the left side"... is also what counts.
 

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Since the OP seems to be pulling on the collar correctly to disengage it, another thought comes to mind. I wonder if the slide part of the drive shaft is seized up?

The drive shaft is actually 2 pieces that slide in and out - you will see the joint around the middle of the shaft. If this joint looks corroded or dry it won't let the shaft compress when you are trying to remove it.

Here's an example pic of what I am talking about - I usually have a hard time explaining this stuff properly:

This is what one end of the drive shaft looks like:



The other end of the driveshaft will insert into this square hole:



Notice in the first pic how rusted it is? This can easily prevent the drive shaft from sliding enough so you can get it off the PTO shaft.
Wow! That shaft looks less than loved after (understatement). On my 20 year old 425 there was zero rust. But, I kept it heavily greased: u-joints, slide, and on the splines.

To the OP: no reason to hesitate to drop the deck. You can always put the hanger back on and pick it up. My method works. I don't see how you could get yourself boxed into a corner.

It could also be that you are already pulled up against the ring inside and it is preventing you from fully retracting the retainer. If so, you might need to push the drive shaft all the way on (use the mower deck to push with, is what I do) and then try pulling back on the retaining ring. It should come loose once you've released whatever is binding it. And don't ever let it get like coaltrain's rusty rod!
 

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The pics and advice have helped, at least I'm confident I'm in the right spot pulling in the right direction. I had already checked that the drive shaft sections were free to each other and they don't look bad. I'm a little hesitant about dropping the front of the deck to pull forward, I've got to make sure I don't end up in a worse bind... The ring/coupler/sleeve that should pull forward to release is free, it pulls forward and back maybe 1/8", but won't come forward enough to release anything. I'm just trying to get some lubricant in there to free up what I picture is balls like in a quick connect fitting that don't want to move freely. As for following the JD book, their instructions are pretty vague... reach in from the left side and pull. forums like this are why I love the internet.
I think you have a good plan moving forward. One other thing to try is rotating the collar as you pull it forward. When the collar is not on the drive shaft, when getting ready to install, you can pull back on the collar and twist it so it will stay locked in the open position - then when you slip it on the collar automatically locks in place. Maybe when you are pulling straight back it is hitting the twist lock? Just try rotating the collar either way as you are pulling it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
resolution:

I fought this thing for quite a while, unwilling to stop mowing long enough to do anything drastic, but finally took it to the dealer. Straight up, the previous owner probably never had this apart, there were wear grooves that would not let it come apart. It had to be destroyed to get it off so I had to buy that half of the driveshaft. Surprisingly there was not a lot of corrosion or crap internally, the thing had just worn into place. It will be exercised regularly from now on. Thanks again for all the responses. ($200 or so for the part)
 
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