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The manual states in various places not to mow with the deck in highest position, but doesn't state why for my 3000 series 60" MMM? Sometimes I need to mow above obstacles for various reasons, not for a long duration. Will I physical damage the MMM somehow, or is it for a safety reason I cannot comprehend, sometimes I overlook the obvious! The switch that raises and lowers the MMM is very fast compared to what I've used for decades, and getting a height to avoid blade contact with a solid object is rather tedious.

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The manual states in various places not to mow with the deck in highest position, but doesn't state why for my 3000 series 60" MMM? Sometimes I need to mow above obstacles for various reasons, not for a long duration. Will I physical damage the MMM somehow, or is it for a safety reason I cannot comprehend, sometimes I overlook the obvious! The switch that raises and lowers the MMM is very fast compared to what I've used for decades, and getting a height to avoid blade contact with a solid object is rather tedious.

Thanks,
Perhaps the angle of the drive shaft at max height stresses the U-joints? Only thing I can think of.
 

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Perhaps there is a mixup of terminology at work here. There is a range of mowing height settings, something like 1”-4” or the like and all of the settings for mowing should be equally usable. However when not in use is there a transport height setting for the deck above that 4” (or so) setting that shouldn’t be used to actually mow with? Perhaps that is what the manual is referring to with it’s cautionary statement to not now at max height.
 

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If the PTO engages, and the blades spin, it should be fine to continue no matter what height. If it’s unsafe, or unhealthy to the machine, JD should have put a restriction on it. Heck, they won’t let you back up with it on, they should have put a height sensor on it if they don’t want you doing that. That’s what they make warranties for. Run it. Call your dealer and ask the service manager what he thinks. He’s most likely worked on some seriously trashed decks, and would know their tolerances
 

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I have used my 60D on my 1025 in the transport position multiple times and haven't seen any ill effects yet. I have one spot in my yard that I have to raise the deck to keep from hitting tree roots. I hit the button for the lift and raise it up, then drop it right back down after I pass over it. No issue with the blades spinning the entire time.


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It could also just be that in the transport position, the deck isn't ideally squared for cutting as it is when in one of the selected mowing heights. After all, the transport mode is to raise the deck as high as possible for maximum ground clearance and achieving the maximum ground clearance might not involve keeping the deck in the best position for mowing, its more about ground clearance.........

Technically, the leading edge of the deck should be a little lower than the trailing edge so that the mower blades squarely cut the grass. When you look under most Deere decks, you can visually see how when the blades are square to the ground, the front edge of the deck is lower and the trailing edge (rear ) of the deck is a little higher. That's why one should always measure the cutting height adjustment using the Deere blade measuring tool and not by measuring from the front, rear and ends of the mower deck itself to the ground.

I would ASSume the mowing results in the transport mode are the concern, verses there being any actual risk of damage for the PTO shaft, the deck, etc. If there was a real risk of mechanical damage to running the mower in the raised position, it would be easy enough for Deere to implement a safety switch preventing the deck from operating in the transport position. As we all know, they have plenty of safety switches already so what trouble would adding one more switch be?:laugh: And we all know what happens when one does ASSume, it makes an Azz of U and Me......:laugh:

Amazon.com : John Deere Original Equipment Depth Gauge #AM130907 : Lawn Mower Deck Parts : Gateway
 

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Here is the exact wording from the operator's manual:

Using Height Adjust Link
For Transport

NOTE: Do not mow with mower in highest (transport) position. Mow at least 25 mm (1 in.) lower than highest position.

1. Raise deck to highest position, pull link forward and install pin in nearest hole available. Lower deck after pin is engaged to transport position.

OMLVU20443_G9

Being that the notice is in the section about the transport position, I'd assume they mean not to mow with it in the transport position.

I'm not sure of that messes with the mower drive line and auto connect system or not. Mowing at that height probably creates some safety concerns though. "Stuff" in the grass isn't necessarily going to go out the chute as intended. If the deck is up off the ground, stuff will come out from all sides. If you're going to attempt it I'd stay far, far away from any windows and people.

(Many moons ago I had a crappy little Murray riding mower. Unbeknownst to me, my daughter and her friends had left some golf balls in the back yard. I went out and mowed. 10 minutes later a golf ball flew out the discharge chute, bounced off the ground, bounced off the side of our brick house and then came flying back right at me. it missed me by about 3" but it must have still been moving at a good 60-70 mph. If it had hit me in the head it would have knocked me out cold! :laugh:)
 

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Here is the exact wording from the operator's manual:

Using Height Adjust Link
For Transport

NOTE: Do not mow with mower in highest (transport) position. Mow at least 25 mm (1 in.) lower than highest position.

1. Raise deck to highest position, pull link forward and install pin in nearest hole available. Lower deck after pin is engaged to transport position.

OMLVU20443_G9

Being that the notice is in the section about the transport position, I'd assume they mean not to mow with it in the transport position.

I'm not sure of that messes with the mower drive line and auto connect system or not. Mowing at that height probably creates some safety concerns though. "Stuff" in the grass isn't necessarily going to go out the chute as intended. If the deck is up off the ground, stuff will come out from all sides. If you're going to attempt it I'd stay far, far away from any windows and people.

(Many moons ago I had a crappy little Murray riding mower. Unbeknownst to me, my daughter and her friends had left some golf balls in the back yard. I went out and mowed. 10 minutes later a golf ball flew out the discharge chute, bounced off the ground, bounced off the side of our brick house and then came flying back right at me. it missed me by about 3" but it must have still been moving at a good 60-70 mph. If it had hit me in the head it would have knocked me out cold! :laugh:)
I highlighted the pin part. If the deck is mechanically pinned up for the transport position it makes perfect sense that the manual says to not operate the deck in my opinion. With the deck pinned it is not hanging from the support linkage like it would in the mowing position. The deck would not be able to flex or ride up over irregularities.

Just what I am taking from that.

My deck in the upmost position is not pinned. Also there is no mention of “transport position” as far as I know. Different tractors, different decks, different setups.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I highlighted the pin part. If the deck is mechanically pinned up for the transport position it makes perfect sense that the manual says to not operate the deck in my opinion. With the deck pinned it is not hanging from the support linkage like it would in the mowing position. The deck would not be able to flex or ride up over irregularities.

Just what I am taking from that.

My deck in the upmost position is not pinned. Also there is no mention of “transport position” as far as I know. Different tractors, different decks, different setups.
Everyone's answers makes sense, thanks, and I re-looked, it does state in the transport position! As far as getting a level cut in the highest position, doesn't matter, just want to knock the weeds down so they're not seen from a distance:bigthumb:
 

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Everyone's answers makes sense, thanks, and I re-looked, it does state in the transport position! As far as getting a level cut in the highest position, doesn't matter, just want to knock the weeds down so they're not seen from a distance:bigthumb:
If there is actually a pin involved with putting it in transport position I would just not install the pin, raise the deck all the way, and go mowing.

The only thing I would do as a precaution is when the tractor is parked with the deck in the fully raised position, take a look at the drive shaft. It shouldn’t be in a reverse position - as in the drive shaft where it meets the transmission should be higher than where it goes into the deck gear box - or even level is OK.
 

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If there is actually a pin involved with putting it in transport position I would just not install the pin, raise the deck all the way, and go mowing.

The only thing I would do as a precaution is when the tractor is parked with the deck in the fully raised position, take a look at the drive shaft. It shouldn’t be in a reverse position - as in the drive shaft where it meets the transmission should be higher than where it goes into the deck gear box - or even level is OK.
That’s what I was thinking. Years ago I built a Jeep with a lift on it and i never dropped the trans leaving the driveshafts angles too much resulting in u joints wearing out prematurely. I figure the deck coming up should be less of an angle to the yolk and should be fine. Maybe all the way up is too rigid and bottoms out the yolk creating too much linear pressure. I would almost lean towards raising it all the way, then dropping it a hair so the yolk has a little play in it for shock absorption.

Buncha rocket scientists we are. Don’t tell Sulley


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That’s what I was thinking. Years ago I built a Jeep with a lift on it and i never dropped the trans leaving the driveshafts angles too much resulting in u joints wearing out prematurely. I figure the deck coming up should be less of an angle to the yolk and should be fine. Maybe all the way up is too rigid and bottoms out the yolk creating too much linear pressure. I would almost lean towards raising it all the way, then dropping it a hair so the yolk has a little play in it for shock absorption.

Buncha rocket scientists we are. Don’t tell Sulley


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Makes sense to me.
 
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