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Discussion Starter #1
I still have a working MT.... It will bush hog all day on a tank of gas... Although I've used it for 23 years; I still find issues I don't fully understand... Now it's loading up in heavy grass and when I push in the clutch it does not recover as it used to...
I have rebuilt the governor shaft and the top end of the distributor and it still does it.... I end up advancing the distributor spark just to get it back to the shop..... I've both static timed it and used a light.... to no avail.... Also if it sits for a week or so; I have even had to advance the timing when I start it, just to get it to rev up.....
So, I'm not shure if it's a distributor or a governor or operator issue.... Anyone have some good advice or prior experience with this problem????
wwklink
 

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Check to make sure that the choke is fully opening. Also, you may possibly have a carb float or fuel inlet valve / needle & seat issue.

Check your spark. It should be a nice bright, blue-white spark that should easily jump a 1/8" - 1/4" gap. If it's a weak, yellow spark you may have points, condenser or coil issues.

That's where's I'd start and then follow the correct path.
 

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Hi,

I feel your pain. A smart friend of mine once told me-- all carb issues tend to be ignition and timing issues.
When he told me, I found it insulting-- but I wasn't listening....

I'd suggest checking the mag, points, read the spark plug, and ensure everything with the spark/ignition is robust.

The previous post is RIGHT.

Once the ignition system checks out, you should then focus on the carb.

A few things to consider-- make sure everything is *clean* that connects-- plug leads, points, wires, etc. Make sure the grounds are clean.

Once you get a good spark jumping across the plug, focus on the carb.

I live in CA and therefore have to live with this cruddy gasoline we have. It literally used to boil in the tank on a hot day when I was mowing. (I have the video!). Provided you have decent gasoline, you should be "good to go."

Good luck!
 

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I once had an F100 pickup 240ci six that kept changing timing. It turned out to be the roll pin that held the gear onto the distributor shaft. Might not be your problem, but it's a fairly easy thing to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well Guess I need to look at the MS carb one more time...
I have a great spark, new plugs,points,condenser, cap, recent copper plug wire and coil.... Just can't quite get my head around this situation where it's at idle and chugging, rich, but won't rev until you turn the distributor clockwise (past TDC)... Distributor role pin is good, not much end play in shaft, and advance springs work as intended.... No binding of throttle/governor linkage behind oil bath-breather either....
The old carb has always been bit on the rich side even with the mix adjustment turned all the way in... Power adjustment is usually very responsive and has always worked as advertised. Now it does not seem to any effect; possibly due to the advanced timing or another issue in the carb itself.... So I'm going to take it apart and see what I find...
Thanks for all the suggestions... I do appreciate them, as I was out of air speed and ideas....
Now I need to find the time to check um all out....AH. after my 10 acres of lawn is mowed again... If it would just stop raining and get a bit hotter; that would not be a weekly thing this late in the summer....
 

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I would still replace the condenser,, too many times the condenser has caused timing problems for me.

Different temperatures will cause the condenser to act differently, causing intermittent issues.
 
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