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that's pretty neat i think. thinking outside of the box-huh (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Buy a box of extra hair clips and pins.
Good suggestion 5shank. I oriented the cotter pin in the proper direction so it wouldn't be forced out by snow when moving forward. It could probably spin around though, so good to have on hand.

The tolerances for the clevis pin are fairly tight, almost press fit. The clevis pins might be OK.

I will probably drive in a straight line when box blade is down. Too much lateral force could cause the sides of the skid shoes to break. The box blade sides are 5/16". That left 11/32" for each side of the dado cut, which is probably the weak point of the design. I would have liked to purchase 1 1/4" thick material, but these were cutoffs from 1" thick snowblade installation. The 1" thick UHMW PE was pricey enough.

Modified my Curtis snowplow with 60 inch moldboard to have a (Edit: 1" thick) UHMW PE cutting edge. I decided I wanted to use the plow set down on the concrete versus shoes.
Anyone see any other weaknesses? I could really use some snow to test this out!
 

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I was wondering if anyone had been using their box blade in the snow. I wonder if it's worth the effort for me to use a BB in conjunction with the front blade??
 

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GWE, those guide-skids are neat. (y)
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I was wondering if anyone had been using their box blade in the snow.
I don't have a box blade, but if I did I couldn't use it on snow. :ROFLMAO:
 

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I was wondering if anyone had been using their box blade in the snow. I wonder if it's worth the effort for me to use a BB in conjunction with the front blade??
That's my question. I tried years ago using a BB in the snow but it jams up with snow almost immediately and backs up against the tractor. It really was of little use. You can use the BB going backwards like a snow pusher, but that wasn't too efficient either. I ended up with a regular HD landscape blade for my mile long driveway in the snow. I don't use shoes, just am very careful and seem to generally not pick up too much gravel. Works for me.
 

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Someone likes to use other peoples box blades and get them all muddy :rolleyes::p
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't plan on the box blade being great for 12" snowfalls. I'm hoping it works well for pulling snow away from barn and garage doors and for cleanup of spillage from FEL snowplow. Bulk of the snowfalls are in the 3" to 6" range when we get them.
 

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So,
My take on those skids is that they look like they’d do well on a hard surface like concrete or asphalt, but will bite in on gravel or dirt if the ground isn’t sufficiently frozen enough. Also, I notice the sharp angle of the front could stand to be rounded a little to help it to plane along. Anyone who has used new edge tamers knows that front lip can bite in a little when at level or angled down. If I was using that setup greenwithenvy Id lengthen the top link quite a bit to lift the front of the box up so it doesn’t slice in too far. In my humble opinion I’d look for a way to fix horizontal ski on the bottom of those if your going off road with it and straying from the driveway
 

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I was wondering if anyone had been using their box blade in the snow. I wonder if it's worth the effort for me to use a BB in conjunction with the front blade??
I was wondering if anyone had been using their box blade in the snow. I wonder if it's worth the effort for me to use a BB in conjunction with the front blade??
They scrape ice and hard packed snow nicely as well as collecting up blade/bucket spillover trails. They also make great ballast and rear weight without sticking out too far. I use mine to get up close to garage doors as well because you have great visibility to get up close.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My take on those skids is that they look like they’d do well on a hard surface like concrete or asphalt, but will bite in on gravel or dirt if the ground isn’t sufficiently frozen enough. Also, I notice the sharp angle of the front could stand to be rounded a little to help it to plane along.
Kbar, good points! I will probably only use it on concrete portion of drive. Any ideas how I should round the bottom angle?
 

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I always appreciate thinking " outside of the box.............blade" :unsure: ..............

There, I had to say it. Now I feel better. Well, sort of.

Depending upon the snow, the box blade might be helpful. The goal is to drag the snow away from the doors, I get that. I do that on about 80 overhead doors every time I plow my route, So trust me, overhead door clearing is something I have given a lot of time to considering, as its one of the most time consuming parts of my plowing activity. But it's also one of the more important because you don't want to create a mound of snow outside of the door or an icy bump from driving over the snow.

One thing that helps is having down pressure to scrape and drag away from the door. The FEL has that, the box blade doesn't. You may need to hang suitcase weights on the box blade to get the machine balanced to maintain steering. I forget, what do you have on the front of the tractor, a FEL mounted plow, a blower, a Quik Tach mount? If you have a blade, how big is the one on the front of the tractor?

If the snow is light and powdery and not too deep, the box blade will work fine.

If the snow is the type which makes great snowballs or builds cool forts, then the box blade can ride on top of the snow and you have to stop maybe 6' to 12' from the door and lift the blade. Then you either continue to drag it back with the FEL plow blade or maybe you can push it off to the side depending upon the work area.

You have to be very careful to NOT result in an icy mound where you stop with the BB and lift it. This becomes a problem easier than one would think and its hard to deal with once its happened. The box blade will likely pack full of snow and its hard to unpack if its wet enough. Plus, the packing of the rear box blade is going to change the steering
as the weight builds.
Tricks to good snow clean up include, but certainly aren't limited to;

  • Avoid driving over the snow before plowing / removing it.
  • Try to handle the snow the fewest times possible
  • Down pressure is usually critical for dragging back snow
  • Use a rubber edge on the box blade scraper edge so the steel doesn't chatter on the pavement
  • Don't be surprised if the Box Blade plugs and holds the snow when rolled back as KBar described positioning it
  • Snow conditions vary and so will the results. Don't come to your final conclusions about the Box Blade from one or two snow fall uses........
  • Personally, I find having the rubber edge on the rear scraper helps protect the door jambs, etc.
  • You first plowing with the box blade is like the first date. You are nervous and your expectations are one thing and the reality might be another. Don;t draw all of the conclusions about this from your "first date together".
  • Make sure to have a long handled steel dirt shovel strapped to the top of the box blade frame. If the box blade packs full of snow, you might need the shovel to "unpack it" and knock the snow out of the box blade. This is where you have to be careful to not strip off your "ski's" when knocking the snow out of the box blade.
Rarely does the box blade get used in super wet clay conditions, where it can plug as the traction is so poor, you can't get the tractor to move in the clay. But wet snow will pack tighter than........well, let's just say it can be packed tight if the snow is wet................and you might need to stop and use the shovel to clear the box blade.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Tricks to good snow clean up include, but certainly aren't limited to;
SulleyBear, thanks for the time you took in your post. Most people call me detail-oriented. I have seen quite a few of your posts. I believe you may like the details even more than I!
 
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