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Delivered 4/4/12. 7 hours so far. I've moved 10 yards of dirt with the loader, used the box blade to smooth out the driveway and got some brush hogging done already.

No real complaints yet. Seems to handle everything I'm throwing at it. I'm not using it for belly mowing, using it for mostly tractor purposes. I decided against the 2320 because it had the same engine in a heavier tractor. All the things I need this size tractor to do seems to do it just fine. It doesn't even feel like the bush hog is working behind the tractor. The loader seems fairly capable, and it's super comfortable.

I'm a little anal, so I have a question for other 1026r owners. Where the ROPS comes down past the inside of the fenders, on mine, there is a good 3/8" - 1/2" gap between the ROPS and it touching the inside of the left rear fender.

On the right fender, the ROPS has no gap and is touching the right rear fender. I'm sure this is just due to the fact that tractors ROPS probably don't have perfect fittement, but it still kind of bugs me...ha

I'm mainly concerned that something isn't bent or tweaked from the factory. Can someone else look at the gap on their 1026r and tell me it's like mine?
 

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:wgtt:

Can't help on the fender/ROPS issue, I am sure someone will shortly though.
 

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Welcome to GTT!

:wgtt:

Great choice in tractors!:hi:
I looked at my 1026R and the ROPS is spaced evenly off of both fenders.Sounds like there might be a fitment issue with yours. When the tractor is sitting level side to side, is the ROPS plumb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yup

Nice little tractor, enjoy it.:thumbup1gif:

Have you checked out all the rops mounting bolts to make sure they are tight?
All the bolts seem tight. I also just found out I have the leaking transmission issue that I've read about a few people who've had it. Coming from what looks to be above the transmission filter. Less than 7 hours on the tractor. I hope mine wasn't made on a Friday. Hopefully the dealer is as good as people advertise and they take care of the leak. I'll have them check the ROPS as well. It's probably nothing, but for some reason, spending 15k, it seems like the fittement should be better.

I'll keep you posted.
 

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Did you go with the 1048L box blade? My salesman tried to get me to buy the non L version, but I didn't want to over burden my machine (can always add weight).

Hope you get your fender alignment issue resolved- no reason to have to dwell on anything with a new machine!
 

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All the bolts seem tight. I also just found out I have the leaking transmission issue that I've read about a few people who've had it. Coming from what looks to be above the transmission filter. Less than 7 hours on the tractor. I hope mine wasn't made on a Friday. Hopefully the dealer is as good as people advertise and they take care of the leak. I'll have them check the ROPS as well. It's probably nothing, but for some reason, spending 15k, it seems like the fittement should be better.

I'll keep you posted.


Another tranny leak! WTF? JD should start pressure testing these units before they ship...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got the non-L

Did you go with the 1048L box blade? My salesman tried to get me to buy the non L version, but I didn't want to over burden my machine (can always add weight).

Hope you get your fender alignment issue resolved- no reason to have to dwell on anything with a new machine!
I got the BB2048 Box Blade. Weighs in @ 380 pounds. I figured that is about perfect ballast with the filled tires and doing moderate loader work. It worked like a dream for moving the top soil, very stable.

I was concerned about the load on the machine as well, but the dealer recommended the non-L, and assured me it shouldn't be issue, which I agree with him. If the machine can't handle that box blade without hurting the tractor, than there would be some serious design flaws. This 1026 should be better built stronger than the 2305, and it seems like there are a lot of people with tons of hours on the 2305 running 3 point implements for years.

I wanted the smaller footprint, and I figured with the 2 year/2000, 3 year powertrain warranty, I would give the little guy a chance to succeed. I will get good use out of it, no snow where I live, but in the summer, it will be doing a 1/4 acre garden tilling, (fairly small), it will bush hog about 3 acres two - three times a year (flat field grass), and the rest of it's use will be general purpose. Landscaping, making use of hauling things around in the bucket, post hole digging type work, loader work as needed, mostly top soil.

All in all, I'm figuring about 50 -75 hours per year. I don't think that should qualify as heavy use for this tractor that should cause any premature wear. Granted, I'm not using to belly mow, but I don't think the things I'm doing should be stressing it out or are beyond the capabilities of the R.

Hopefully I'm not wrong and just purchased a really expensive lawn mower! :) ha
 

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I haven't been able to figure out what the L version of the 2048BB weighs. The salesman didn't know- I've asked him to find out.
I guess I'm still on the fence since you said it pulls just fine. I think they wanted about 900$ for the 2048 vs 750$ for the 2048L

I got the BB2048 Box Blade. Weighs in @ 380 pounds. I figured that is about perfect ballast with the filled tires and doing moderate loader work. It worked like a dream for moving the top soil, very stable.

I was concerned about the load on the machine as well, but the dealer recommended the non-L, and assured me it shouldn't be issue, which I agree with him. If the machine can't handle that box blade without hurting the tractor, than there would be some serious design flaws. This 1026 should be better built stronger than the 2305, and it seems like there are a lot of people with tons of hours on the 2305 running 3 point implements for years.

I wanted the smaller footprint, and I figured with the 2 year/2000, 3 year powertrain warranty, I would give the little guy a chance to succeed. I will get good use out of it, no snow where I live, but in the summer, it will be doing a 1/4 acre garden tilling, (fairly small), it will bush hog about 3 acres two - three times a year (flat field grass), and the rest of it's use will be general purpose. Landscaping, making use of hauling things around in the bucket, post hole digging type work, loader work as needed, mostly top soil.

All in all, I'm figuring about 50 -75 hours per year. I don't think that should qualify as heavy use for this tractor that should cause any premature wear. Granted, I'm not using to belly mow, but I don't think the things I'm doing should be stressing it out or are beyond the capabilities of the R.

Hopefully I'm not wrong and just purchased a really expensive lawn mower! :) ha
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Woah

I haven't been able to figure out what the L version of the 2048BB weighs. The salesman didn't know- I've asked him to find out.
I guess I'm still on the fence since you said it pulls just fine. I think they wanted about 900$ for the 2048 vs 750$ for the 2048L
Prices sure are different where you are at. I'm in Washington State. My 2048 Frontier Box Blade was $799.00. The L was 6 something. I forgot.


I might of been wrong above....I think the bb2048L weighs 380 and the bb2048 might weigh 480. I'm not sure I guess. The 1026 is rated for 680 on the hitch. Anything under 500 pounds I still shouldn't think would be a problem.
 

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I have been told the main difference was the height of the 3pt hitch. My dealer said that the lower hitch on the L gave you more lift height in transport.
 

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Well if the lift height were the main difference- I would be fine with that, but if its also 100lbs lighter (and that would make sense given the price difference) I think the regular 2048 is probably a better choice.
My dealer is in Idaho. I think they are undoubtedly high on price, but I got a good deal on the machine, so I'm not complaining too much.
 

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According to my dealer, the 2048 is 355lbs, and the 2048L is 275lbs. Main differences are 3/8" vs 3/16" steel end plates, and 4 vs 3 scarifiers.
Could be some dimensional differences but he didn't say.

Is the extra 80lbs worth the 200$ premium? Or should I just hang some weight on the back?



Prices sure are different where you are at. I'm in Washington State. My 2048 Frontier Box Blade was $799.00. The L was 6 something. I forgot.


I might of been wrong above....I think the bb2048L weighs 380 and the bb2048 might weigh 480. I'm not sure I guess. The 1026 is rated for 680 on the hitch. Anything under 500 pounds I still shouldn't think would be a problem.
 

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i personally think the extra weight is worth the money. if you think about it the extra 80lbs is being added into better steel (thicker) and will stand up to anything you should throw at it.

i personally dont have a BB but if i would i would want more weight.
 

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My dealer told me the 2060 BB was $850. Said he would sell it for $800. I think it weighs around 465 lbs and I think that is what I am going to get for my 1026R.

The 2048L is selling on ebay for $399 from a JD dealer. It is in Montana, and of course you have to pick it up:lol:

Your dealer is crazy for asking $750 unless that includeds shipping it to you from far, far away.
 

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My dealer told me the 2060 BB was $850. Said he would sell it for $800. I think it weighs around 465 lbs and I think that is what I am going to get for my 1026R.

The 2048L is selling on ebay for $399 from a JD dealer. It is in Montana, and of course you have to pick it up:lol:

Your dealer is crazy for asking $750 unless that includeds shipping it to you from far, far away.
Not to derail this thread, but what dealer are you using?
 

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Transmission Leak ?

All the bolts seem tight. I also just found out I have the leaking transmission issue that I've read about a few people who've had it. Coming from what looks to be above the transmission filter. Less than 7 hours on the tractor. I hope mine wasn't made on a Friday. Hopefully the dealer is as good as people advertise and they take care of the leak. I'll have them check the ROPS as well. It's probably nothing, but for some reason, spending 15k, it seems like the fittement should be better.

I'll keep you posted.
I too have read some previous comments about the transmission leaks. I checked mine when I read the first post and discovered, what appeared to be, a drop at the bottom of the transmission filter. It turned out to be a dried black paint drip.

Yesterday, I mowed with my 60D belly mower about an acre of grass. After mowing, I checked things out and discovered, what I thought was a transmission leak. It turns out, that the grease of the U-joint (mid-mount PTO) had been thrown off and was all over the transmission filter. U-joints throwing off excess grease is pretty common. I'd guess others may be having this same experience. It maybe too, that the grease melts on the hot filter and gives the false impression of a leak(???). It might help to clean off the area where you think you have a leak and see if it returns/repeats. Placing a piece of clean cardboard under a suspected leak, overnight, will help pin point where it's coming from, if at all. I've got 21hours on my 1026R and I've found it to be an excellent machine over my old JD 655. Thanks for the observations :)
 
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