Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 76 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I've been searching for 4 whole years for a 140, and after getting the offer to pick this one up, I just HAD to jump on it. We got it on Friday, just before another buyer came on Sunday to pick it up. We ended up bringing it home, along with a set of 212 side panels and a 300 carcass. We of course forgot our straps and had only one to strap down: The 140s hood, 212 side panels, 300 fenders, 140 fuel tank, 140, and the 300. We managed to get home safely and nothing was lost.

The 140 needs a new back tire, a motor, a new steering column, battery tray, and all the electrical. The hood is just sitting on the frame for now, but planning to have it mounted in the future. Luckily for me it sat in the original owner's sunroom after the motor went out but after 15 or so years of sitting in there he had to sell it, after which it sat outside under a tree, exposed to the sun. Luckily we got it only shortly after. The 140 is pretty much mint, having only faded paint, and a little bit of rust. All the dash components are either in bad shape or missing so everything's getting replaced. The paint IS original, just faded from sitting under a glass roof, and the rust is just from the battery and the little bit of sitting outside it did. The hood only has one crack on the front and a tiny chunk missing, and headlight panel has been impaled, but the rubber ring and wiring is still there. Other than that, this thing is completely unmolested.


The 300 is donating its H1.5 (there's 2 handles but only one set of front lines; there was a diverter valve), its steering, some of its hydro linkage parts, and the hydraulic caps. There isn't much other than that, but I am selling the mint dash on it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,900 Posts
It looks decent, but I don’t think your mix and match plans will work without lots of custom fabrication.

The 69 should have a older type hydro with a completely different linkage than the 300.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hydro linkage is going in 317. Steering and H2 are going in 140.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,900 Posts
Hydro linkage is going in 317. Steering and H2 are going in 140.
You’ll still need to cut the tower to install the h2 levers, weld up a mount for the valve, and pray that the hydraulic lines fit.

Steering...I don’t know if the columns are the same length. You should be able to swap internals atleast as the gears do rotate the same way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You’ll still need to cut the tower to install the h2 levers, weld up a mount for the valve, and pray that the hydraulic lines fit.

Steering...I don’t know if the columns are the same length. You should be able to swap internals atleast as the gears do rotate the same way.
What????
The tower is the exact same. The H1, H2, and H3 all used the same setup and size for the outside handle, and the other handles mount inside the outside handle. It's the later ones that have a different style of handle. In fact, my brother put 300 H2 handles in his 140 just fine.
The valve would mount fine as the frame is predrilled for an H1, 2, or 3 valve. It's got 4 holes, one stays in the same place and the other 3 move with the size of the valve. The second set of H2 front lines mount to the same place as on H3, it's just the rockshaft cylinder lines move.
The steering columns mount in the same place, and have the same length. The problem with mine is the stud is siezed solid in the case and when they tried to break it loose it snapped off.

So overall, no modifications are needed to mount the steering and H2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,900 Posts
Ok. Have fun
 
  • Like
Reactions: MDrew

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So I took the steering column out of the 140 by just unbolting it then disassembling it from the bottom, then knocking the shaft out from the top. I tried putting the 300 column in but apparently the pittman arm nut is larger and it won't fit through the small hole in the column. I'm just saying screw and I'm just going to put a bearing and spacer in to replace the inside bolt and put the column in.
Because I can't currently fix the steering, I tried to take the H1 out to put the H2 in but that was a no go, the lines are all stuck together and I couldn't unscrew the bolts because the lines just wanted to twist with the bolts. The one line I found is nice and bent up from the PO trying to literally steal everything, wiring, hydraulics, engine, etc.
I then decided that, since i can't do anything i wanted to, I was just going to clean the tractor off. I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that the paint isn't faded, it's just got this white film of what I assume to be tree sap on it. This thing cleaned up nice, save for the hood, which has been repainted because all the paint's missing off the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So I haven't worked much on One eyed larry, I've just been working on the 317. I still need to find a motor for Ol larry. Sigh...
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So I think the 140 is finally going to get a motor after being a parts tractor for almost 22 years. I'm going to transplant the K241 from my 210 into it, and I'm thinking of just cutting off the hydraulic system so I can run it without them, especially with the H2 swap got stuck halfway done. How should I connect the 2 hydraulic ports together to run the tractor without hydraulics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
Connecting ports together will not be difficult. Do it right at the hydro. Remove top line, bottom line, and install a hose! BUT You NEED TO KNOW fitting size & configuration!!! Look through JD parts catalog for the fittings. They are serial number specific, don't know, so have you serial number handy. I think (???) they're o-ring boss fittings. Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Motor is out of the 210 and into the 140. Just have to take the flywheel screen and PTO off, then take my other steering column and combine it with the column from the 210. Larry's getting new life after 22 years of being a parts tractor!
 
  • Like
Reactions: KennyP

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Here's a more detailed explanation:

After I got home from school, I "persuaded" my brother to order my remote oil filter, then I went straight up our farm. I got started unhooking the wiring, and found that my no-spark issue is definitely in the coil-key switch connector. I popped the two halves apart and it was like a blizzard of corrosion. I'm just going to swap the coil from my K321 because I don't even know if this one works.
My brother came up and worked on something for a bit, I got the motor mount unbolted and the manual PTO linkage unhooked, ready to take the engine out, but I changed my mind when I saw that the motor mount was wedged in there good. I decided to just unbolt the whole engine from the mount and lift it out separately. Also, the one motor mount both broke off the frame and the ears broke off the mount itself.
I got everything on the engine itself unbolted, got the manual PTO engagement arm and mule drive off, cables disconnected, and the wiring apart. We had a fun time getting the front right bolt out, especially with a linkage in the way. It took 5 hours to get everything ready to come out.
Me and my brother were pretty annoyed at that point, and we harnessed that energy to muscle the engine out of the tractor and into the 140 frame.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
If you were closer, I'd be talking you out of that 314 hood!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
If you were closer, I'd be talking you out of that 314 hood!
Yeaahhh it's not in good shape. It's got a hole in the side and 2 ruined mounts, both on one side.
The 314 hood is a throwaway hood to test fitting of the hood without breaking my two good hoods.
You can see the hole right behind the number.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: KennyP

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Got the drain petcock off and the motor bolted in. Removed the excess AQS shrouding and test fit the hood. Larry's starting to shape up!
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: glc

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
After struggling for a while I managed to get the H1 valve out. Luckily I've learned that if the line is turning with the nut it's usually stuck to the valve fitting, not the nut.
I need to partially disassemble the H2 valve to get the 90 degree fitting in, so I can put it in with only slight extra bending on the stock lines needed. The hole I need to drill should be easy, I just need to find a drill bit to fit and drill everything out.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: DRobinson and glc

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So I'm almost ready to get the H2 done, I got the front lines in the tractor, just have to finish tightening all the fittings.

We went and picked up a few parts, fenders, a frame, and a 43 blade.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRobinson and glc

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Almost ready to run. Got oil and hydro fluid in the tractor, I got the hydraulic lines all tightened up and a temporary steering box in. Just need to find my solenoid and get the fuel tank in.

I do still need a real -30000 steering box.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRobinson and glc

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Hydro linkage is going in 317. Steering and H2 are going in 140.
Mudrig, where are you? I abandoned my 140 H3 when I bought my 420, didn't want to scrap it. I'm on Cape Cod, if your not to far we could work a deal. I haven't been around the site here much, been busy so you can email me if you want.
[email protected]
Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Mudrig, where are you? I abandoned my 140 H3 when I bought my 420, didn't want to scrap it. I'm on Cape Cod, if your not to far we could work a deal. I haven't been around the site here much, been busy so you can email me if you want.
[email protected]
Eric
Oh. You are 10 hours away. The max I can drive is an hour and a half.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jim7743 and glc
1 - 20 of 76 Posts
Top