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So in a round about way I am inheriting this tractor as my next project.

My FIL purchased this tractor from its original owner. Up until then it was always barn kept and in pretty good shape.

Dad bought it to work with....and he didn't have a barn to store it in.....and then he bought an 8N which he like better.....and the tractor was given to my brother to mow the fields on his 72 acres. My brother is not mechanically skilled when it comes to equipment.......

It is agreed that my brother needs a better tractor to "work" with and that I would be better at fixin up this old gal.

I've got to get her back to my place and before I can do that I have to finish a couple "projects" that I have going to make some room for it.

My brother has "fiddled" with the distributor and I know it has been run hot (radiator leak) so my first task will be an assement of what I have and what I'll need to do. Thinking at least a top end / head gasket as well as a radiator rebuild, a carb overhaul, clean out the gas tank, etc....

Any information, manuals, places for parts, etc will all be greatly appreciated.

I am really looking forward to getting this tractor back to good working order and then go from there.
 

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GTT's Pilot in Command (PIC)
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Hurray! Another Popper restore to follow! :yahoo:
 

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Good luck with the restoration! :thumbup1gif:

In my teens, a loooong time ago, I spent a lot of hours on an "MT" (predecessor to the 40), mostly on the road between farms. ~~ Lowell
 

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Looks like a good candidate.
 

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Hmmm, interesting yellow stripe on the hood. I never have seen a 40 with that paint scheme, so maybe someone tried to update the look a bit as had been done with my 60 when I bought it. Someone had used a brush (maybe a broom from the looks of it) to add the yellow stripe paint (actually decal) scheme of a 620 to it.
Good luck with the project. Hope you have as much fun with it as I have with mine.

Hutch
 

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Hmmm, interesting yellow stripe on the hood. I never have seen a 40 with that paint scheme, so maybe someone tried to update the look a bit as had been done with my 60 when I bought it. Someone had used a brush (maybe a broom from the looks of it) to add the yellow stripe paint (actually decal) scheme of a 620 to it.
Good luck with the project. Hope you have as much fun with it as I have with mine.

Hutch
I was kinda wondering about that myself...

When it comes time for some new paint, I'll go back to the original design.

Maybe by then Gizmo will have some green in stock....:munch:
 

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I was kinda wondering about that myself...

When it comes time for some new paint, I'll go back to the original design.

Maybe by then Gizmo will have some green in stock....:munch:
I wouldn't count on it.:laugh:
 

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Hmmm, interesting yellow stripe on the hood. I never have seen a 40 with that paint scheme, so maybe someone tried to update the look a bit as had been done with my 60 when I bought it. Someone had used a brush (maybe a broom from the looks of it) to add the yellow stripe paint (actually decal) scheme of a 620 to it.
Good luck with the project. Hope you have as much fun with it as I have with mine.

Hutch
I was thinking the same thing. :laugh:

The 40s are good little tractors.
 

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i have always like the little dubuque tractors, its nice that you found at least a 40w, but there was something like 7 models of 40's, it may be worth checking your serial number with two cylinder club and finding out its history and what type of 40 is it, who knows, it may be a rare one.

You can go to john deere's website and download the parts manual for free, and you can order the service & operators manuals as well, either as a pfd or paper version, and they are like 30 bucks each i think, but you will not spend any better money, that i can promise.

Keep us updated as you tear into things.
 

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Thanks for the info tlock0331.

Getting things in the shop cleaned up so it will have a "home" for the work. Next step will be getting it here, and then the adventure begins.

The new toys are fun, but I have always had a soft spot for the older stuff. It is true that 'they just don't make 'em like that anymore'.

This is gonna be a fun adventure.
 
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RTGT,

I had some time to take a closer look at your pictures you posted, and that is a very nice looking 40, i am not sure how familiar you are with the older 2 cylinder tractors, but all 2 cylinder tractors with electric start were originally a positive ground and generator and this style was also only built as a 6v system. Yours has been converted to a negative ground and alternator. This will effect the coil and how its wired, so the wiring diagrams will probably not match up with the parts or service manual.

Also, live power was an option, there is a stick on the transmission that would engage it, and on these type of 2 cylinder tractors, the clutch was a 2 position, half way down would disengage the pto, if it is transmission driven, the pto only works if the tractor is moving, and speed of the pto is relative to speed of the tractor. If the clutch is not adjusted correctly or is stuck its kind of a pain. A stuck clutch means splitting the tractor in half, adjusting is just time consuming.

On the radiator leak, if you are taking it to a shop for repair, you may want to tear the radiator assembly apart first, at home, making sure you can get all the bolts out. That will do a lot to reduce your bill. When i tear my down, i just get the torch out and heat them, i have broke way to make radiator bolts to think that they will just come out with wd-40 haha

Hope you are progressing well on your little 40, would love to see some more pictures of it.
 

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RTGT,

Also, live power was an option, there is a stick on the transmission that would engage it, and on these type of 2 cylinder tractors, the clutch was a 2 position, half way down would disengage the pto, if it is transmission driven, the pto only works if the tractor is moving, and speed of the pto is relative to speed of the tractor. If the clutch is not adjusted correctly or is stuck its kind of a pain. A stuck clutch means splitting the tractor in half, adjusting is just time consuming.
Umm, I do not believe that is correct. There is a PTO lever on the transmission, as you said. There is a single clutch. It is just behind the engine and a long driveshaft runs through the tractor center tunnel back to the transmission. The PTO drive is directly coupled to the main driveshaft once the PTO lever is flipped to engage it. The PTO speed is then a direct ratio of the main engine speed. The input shaft to the main transmission is separate from the PTO input shaft, so you can select whichever gear you want to control ground speed, but the PTO will always operate at the same ratio of the engine speed.

The PTO and main transmission are powered by the same main driveshaft, so if the PTO is engaged, and the tractor is in any gear, the PTO and wheels are coupled together, even if the clutch is depressed. This is the reason an over-running clutch is needed when operating anything with the PTO that has a large amount of inertia, such as a 5' rotary mower. If you push the clutch in, the mower will continue to spin, and since the PTO and transmission are directly coupled, the spinning mower will continue to cause the rear wheels to turn and tractor to move forward. This is how you end up in ditches. :laugh:

It sounds like rtgt has used this tractor before, or is at least familiar with it. :lol:

One tip, if the tractor doesn't have spark, but otherwise seems like it should run (turns over, has fuel), run a file or fine sandpaper through the points. Every spring I'd need to do this after my 40U sat all winter. Then it would run great all year until the next spring. It is the only piece of equipment I ever had to do this with.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Some really great info - Thanks.

Spent the weekend at my brothers bush hogging grass with my Dad.

Talked with my brother and worked out a place to put the rotary cutter that is on it.

Got to get the exhaust manifold leak (actually broken bolts..:thumbsdown:) fixed on the Ford, :)munch:) then the spot opens for the 40....:yahoo:

Next time I am out there (about two weeks) I'm gonna take some penatrating oil and give her a bath. Probably fill the cylinders with some oil to.

I'm hoping to get started so that any needed items can be put on my christmas list in time to get to santa.


Keep the info comming.....I have a notepad file started that I am copying it to...
 

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Andy,

after reading your post, i went and reread mine, and went and checked the parts books. I stand corrected, the 420/430/435 standard equipment was the continuous pto, a person had to order live-power. Since live-power was introduced in the 10 series as an option i assumed the 40 was the same way, but it wasnt, it was never an option that i can find on the 40. Learn something new everyday as they say.

The second was when i said that "the pto only works if the tractor is moving" i should have said if the transmission is turning. In my original post, I was referencing the live power on the 20/30 series, not a continuous running pto. The clutch on those tractors are a two stage as i stated, not two clutches. All deeres that had live power had to be engaged two ways, in the waterloo tractors the main lever is up forward of the shifter, the second is down on the right side of the seat, but just like in the lettered series you still have to have the tractor off before engaging the main forward lever, but once engaged it will not spin until you engage the lever on the right side of the rockshaft, on the dubuque tractors, you still have the transmission case lever, but the first stage of the foot clutch (clutch pushed about half way down) will stop the pto while still allowing the tractor to drive.

I say that because i dont think your assessment of non-live power is not completely accurate. If you disengage the clutch, regardless of the gear selection of the tractor, the pto will stop, if you are in neutral, engage the clutch and the pto will spin. The need for an over running clutch is secondary to the situation, thats due to loads larger than the tractor clutch can handle. Im not saying i havent overloaded a tractor, we used to break in tractors on an 8" auger, loading and unloading grain bins, hook em up, load up the auger and make them bark...always a sweet sound, and a great way to get some fine tuning in haha

However, non-live pto is a direct function of the speed of the transmission. Granted the speed of the pto may seem relative to the speed of the motor, and to some degree it is, but its tied in behind the clutch, so when you said that if you push the clutch in the mower will continue to spin, its relying on motor clutch friction to stop it. If it were a function of the engine speed and not transmission, you would only be able to start and stop the pto from the transmission case lever, clutching the transmission would make no difference. If you were to disengage the clutch on an non-live power tractor and the pto still spins then your clutch is slipping.

RTGT - Let us know when you get that tractor in the shop!
 
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